In reply to cha1n:
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> Secondly, I think all your clips were made off of a bent arm which is a serious waste of energy. If I can (e.g. i'm not too scared) I try to remember what someone told me 'clip at the hip'.
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Which is all very well when you're climbing stuff you're comfortable on, but I have to say I'm with Maya on this - if I'm climbing at my limit I always clip above! But then again, I am a scaredy cat... It also depends on the route you're on - I usually go for the best hold, which sometimes means clipping with a bent arm.