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Hi all,
I'm off to the peaks this coming weekend and was hoping for some route suggestions. I climb about HVS/E1 and was wondering where people would suggest for the best/ highest concentrated routes of that grade?
Cheers
Ben
I'm off to the peaks this coming weekend and was hoping for some route suggestions. I climb about HVS/E1 and was wondering where people would suggest for the best/ highest concentrated routes of that grade?
Cheers
Ben
In reply to Ben Taggart-Ryan: i suggest the peak. there are loads of routes at your grade there. Of course the obvious answer is stanage. But all of the honey pot crags will have enough good lines to keep you busy.
In reply to Ben Taggart-Ryan:
If you use this:
http://www.rockfax.com/databases/expert.html
and plug in "HVS + E1 + *** + Eastern Grit" you will find 52 recommended routes. You can even make and print out a Tick List,
Chris
If you use this:
http://www.rockfax.com/databases/expert.html
and plug in "HVS + E1 + *** + Eastern Grit" you will find 52 recommended routes. You can even make and print out a Tick List,
Chris
In reply to Ben Taggart-Ryan:
Don't get to absorbed in grit - go to Chee Dale and do Meditation and Sirplum, or to High Tor to do Debauchery. Even Stoney - Dead Banana Crack and Medusa are both definite 3* routes.
Don't get to absorbed in grit - go to Chee Dale and do Meditation and Sirplum, or to High Tor to do Debauchery. Even Stoney - Dead Banana Crack and Medusa are both definite 3* routes.
In reply to Ben Taggart-Ryan:
Then after youve looked at the tick list work out the quick drying crags and sheltered options. Rain this week and might be cold and windy on saturday (when high west facing edges like stanage can be bitter).
Then after youve looked at the tick list work out the quick drying crags and sheltered options. Rain this week and might be cold and windy on saturday (when high west facing edges like stanage can be bitter).
In reply to Ben Taggart-Ryan: Subject to what Offwidth said, the best concentration of superb routes at those grade is at Stanage Popular. Spending a day around Mississippi buttress is great. Although there are lots of other options!
In reply to Ben Taggart-Ryan:
long tall sally
long tall sally
In reply to Si dH: Yep...best sheltered ones maybe Rivelin and Cratcliffe if the limestone is wet.
In reply to Ben Taggart-Ryan:
Long tall sally is quite good and well protected throughout (if you work your feet up high you can place a wire above your head for the crux)
Fringe Benefit is good too - Rivelin
Lamebrain at Curbar is a gem.
Nemme Pas Harry at Bamford is nice too.
Millstone has some nice ones too.
Long tall sally is quite good and well protected throughout (if you work your feet up high you can place a wire above your head for the crux)
Fringe Benefit is good too - Rivelin
Lamebrain at Curbar is a gem.
Nemme Pas Harry at Bamford is nice too.
Millstone has some nice ones too.
In reply to Ben Taggart-Ryan: Another vote for long tall sally, great route and well protected!
In reply to leroybrown: An unvote for Long Tall Sally. It's an alright route, but Burbage North is a tiny, minor little edge which is much better for bouldering and soloing. Not exactly a high concentration of classic routes at HVS/E1 (one of each in fact, and the HVS isn't really).
Stanage and the Roaches are the obvious places for someone who hasn't done anything in the Peak, they're far and away the biggest, best crags, with loads of magnificent routes. Particularly Stanage Popular, loads of great E1s from paths like Easter Rib to sandbags like Tippler. Pretty much every style. Great HVSs too - don't miss Good Friday and Eliminator, which could be overlooked but are among the best.
A great day would be Hen Cloud, not so much for ticking E1s (I'd go to Stanage Popular for that), but for big, butch HVSs that will live long in the memory (they're much harder than Stanage E1s). Perhaps a bad choice for intro to the Peak though, unless you're good at jamming. I wouldn't bother with Cratcliff unless you want brilliant E2s, or just one great HVS. There's nowt at E1.
Curbar is good if you want a really hard time - The Toy, L'Horla, Soyuz.
Froggatt if you want to get scared on slabs (if you like them, it's easy to push up to E2 there), and do a few hard HVS cracks for variety. Rather busy on a weekend though, with not as much to go round as Stanage and the Roaches.
On the limestone, I wouldn't go near Stoney (dump, polished, choss-heap), High Tor is spectacular, and I would have thought Chee Tor will be super-minging.
Stanage and the Roaches are the obvious places for someone who hasn't done anything in the Peak, they're far and away the biggest, best crags, with loads of magnificent routes. Particularly Stanage Popular, loads of great E1s from paths like Easter Rib to sandbags like Tippler. Pretty much every style. Great HVSs too - don't miss Good Friday and Eliminator, which could be overlooked but are among the best.
A great day would be Hen Cloud, not so much for ticking E1s (I'd go to Stanage Popular for that), but for big, butch HVSs that will live long in the memory (they're much harder than Stanage E1s). Perhaps a bad choice for intro to the Peak though, unless you're good at jamming. I wouldn't bother with Cratcliff unless you want brilliant E2s, or just one great HVS. There's nowt at E1.
Curbar is good if you want a really hard time - The Toy, L'Horla, Soyuz.
Froggatt if you want to get scared on slabs (if you like them, it's easy to push up to E2 there), and do a few hard HVS cracks for variety. Rather busy on a weekend though, with not as much to go round as Stanage and the Roaches.
On the limestone, I wouldn't go near Stoney (dump, polished, choss-heap), High Tor is spectacular, and I would have thought Chee Tor will be super-minging.
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Except Stoney is really really good, not really a dump, and at all chossy really on the well travelled stuff. But then you reckon Black Rocks is terrible so what do you know about anything?
Except Stoney is really really good, not really a dump, and at all chossy really on the well travelled stuff. But then you reckon Black Rocks is terrible so what do you know about anything?
In reply to bomb: Well yeah, everyone knows that Black Rocks isn't mainly dog turds, broken glass and tracky b's.
In reply to Jon Stewart:
What's wrong with tracky b's?
> (In reply to bomb) Well yeah, everyone knows that Black Rocks isn't mainly dog turds, broken glass and tracky b's.
What's wrong with tracky b's?
In reply to Ben Taggart-Ryan:
You are Chris Craggs finding an excuse to promote his book and I claim my £5
You are Chris Craggs finding an excuse to promote his book and I claim my £5
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Stanage Popular is the obvious choice at HVS/E1. Eliminator, Queersville, Good Friday, The Link, Morrison's Redoubt, Gullibles Travels, Mississippi Variant Direct, Tippler, etc
And when you get fed up of the crowds, go and find Anniversary Arete, a gem.
Stanage Popular is the obvious choice at HVS/E1. Eliminator, Queersville, Good Friday, The Link, Morrison's Redoubt, Gullibles Travels, Mississippi Variant Direct, Tippler, etc
And when you get fed up of the crowds, go and find Anniversary Arete, a gem.
In reply to jonny2vests:
I don't know.
Tracky b's are tracksuit bottoms, as worn by scallies and people that resent paying 50 notes for trousers to climb in.
> (In reply to metal arms)
>
> What is a tacky b?
>
> What is a tacky b?
I don't know.
Tracky b's are tracksuit bottoms, as worn by scallies and people that resent paying 50 notes for trousers to climb in.
In reply to Jon Stewart:
> (In reply to leroybrown) An unvote for Long Tall Sally. It's an alright route, but Burbage North is a tiny, minor little edge which is much better for bouldering and soloing. Not exactly a high concentration of classic routes at HVS/E1 (one of each in fact, and the HVS isn't really).
>
There's at least one other E1 - I can't recall the name of the route but I most certainly remember taking a desmond off it! >
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Agreed, Stanage has an excellent selection of HVSs and E1s, but if it is windy Froggatt may well be a good bet. It does get busy, but the classic HVSs rarely have a queue as far as I know (apart from chequers buttress, but if you get a chance, get on it). Valkyrie is amazing; Three Pebble Slab is exciting; I've heard Pedestal Crack is good; Chequers Crack is impossible. Froggatt gets much less wind than Stanage. So does Rivelin
Cake
Agreed, Stanage has an excellent selection of HVSs and E1s, but if it is windy Froggatt may well be a good bet. It does get busy, but the classic HVSs rarely have a queue as far as I know (apart from chequers buttress, but if you get a chance, get on it). Valkyrie is amazing; Three Pebble Slab is exciting; I've heard Pedestal Crack is good; Chequers Crack is impossible. Froggatt gets much less wind than Stanage. So does Rivelin
Cake
In reply to Joughton:
You swine!
> (In reply to Ben Taggart-Ryan)
>
Dead Banana Crack and Medusa are both definite 3* routes.>
You swine!
In reply to ripper: A Desmond ! Very funny, not heard that one before - made me chuckle
In reply to ripper:
Now or Never? A more interesting route than LTS in my opinion
Now or Never? A more interesting route than LTS in my opinion
In reply to Ben Taggart-Ryan:
if you head to Stanage you can't go wrong with:
Flying Buttress Direct; The Right Unconquerable and Eliminator.
if you head to Stanage you can't go wrong with:
Flying Buttress Direct; The Right Unconquerable and Eliminator.
In reply to Ciderslider: cheers! wasn't that funny at the time I have to say, but I was very lucky - nothing more than some big purple bruises despite flying from around 8m up...
In reply to Ben Taggart-Ryan:
It's been pretty wet up here this week and it's not warm. If it is windy and cool on Saturday I'd avoid Stanage and Bamford as they really catch the wind and will be baltic. If it's not windy then Bamford has a number of good HVS routes and a few good E1's too.
In the event of windy coolness then Rivelin, Froggatt, Stoney and Lawrencefield are all pretty sheltered, as is the end of Curbar nearer to Froggatt. All the starred E1s I've done at these venues have been good. Blizzard Ridge at Rivelin is one of the best routes at HVS in the area, as is Valkyrie at Froggatt.
It's been pretty wet up here this week and it's not warm. If it is windy and cool on Saturday I'd avoid Stanage and Bamford as they really catch the wind and will be baltic. If it's not windy then Bamford has a number of good HVS routes and a few good E1's too.
In the event of windy coolness then Rivelin, Froggatt, Stoney and Lawrencefield are all pretty sheltered, as is the end of Curbar nearer to Froggatt. All the starred E1s I've done at these venues have been good. Blizzard Ridge at Rivelin is one of the best routes at HVS in the area, as is Valkyrie at Froggatt.
In reply to mark20:
Total sandbag. The hardest "5b" I've ever done.
> (In reply to ripper)
> Now or Never? A more interesting route than LTS in my opinion
> Now or Never? A more interesting route than LTS in my opinion
Total sandbag. The hardest "5b" I've ever done.
In reply to Ben Taggart-Ryan: Has no one said milsoms minions yet? pretty sweet route which is well protected where it matters though a tad run out at the start.
Mississippi variant direct is straightforward enough and a total cracker.
Three pebble slab is a gooden.....just so you can get involved in the great E1/ HVS debate.
Strambiobante is awsome, everything you want in a route (so long as you dont mind a small one ).
Mississippi variant direct is straightforward enough and a total cracker.
Three pebble slab is a gooden.....just so you can get involved in the great E1/ HVS debate.
Strambiobante is awsome, everything you want in a route (so long as you dont mind a small one ).
In reply to mark20:
No - I've since gone back and found the route i fell off, it was called Slide Away, didn't seem that hard and I don't think I had any right coming off it but i think i got some 'ball bearing' gravel on a foot smear, and once that popped I was off and flying, with the one bit of psychological gear following close behind. 'Now or Never' though - thanks for the reminder, I have unfinished business with that route, got on it once, made the swing around the arete, then bottled the next delicate move up, using the excuse that it was the end of a long and tiring day....which had started with LTS, my first E1 on grit
> (In reply to ripper)
> Now or Never? A more interesting route than LTS in my opinion
> Now or Never? A more interesting route than LTS in my opinion
No - I've since gone back and found the route i fell off, it was called Slide Away, didn't seem that hard and I don't think I had any right coming off it but i think i got some 'ball bearing' gravel on a foot smear, and once that popped I was off and flying, with the one bit of psychological gear following close behind. 'Now or Never' though - thanks for the reminder, I have unfinished business with that route, got on it once, made the swing around the arete, then bottled the next delicate move up, using the excuse that it was the end of a long and tiring day....which had started with LTS, my first E1 on grit
In reply to Jon Stewart:
"The hardest "5b" I've ever done." harder than Nursery Crack at its old grade?
"The hardest "5b" I've ever done." harder than Nursery Crack at its old grade?
In reply to Offwidth: Not done it. I think I'll save it for the same day I do Little Things.
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Both 6a now! I've still got no feedback on Little Things despite advertising it widely; Nursery Crack is good gruelling fun but maybe we undergraded it a bit as 5b on our Offwidth site.... getting complaints .
Both 6a now! I've still got no feedback on Little Things despite advertising it widely; Nursery Crack is good gruelling fun but maybe we undergraded it a bit as 5b on our Offwidth site.... getting complaints .
In reply to Bulls Crack:
I think what Medusa lacks in rock and move quality is more than made up by the satisfaction of getting to the top, and that Dead Banana is a really good route if you don't mind a couple of polished holds at the start.
Also I agree with bomb, who ever thinks that Stoney is a dump has obviously done the wrong routes there - I was there on Sunday, did an E1, E2 and an E3 and on not one of them did I find any choss or loose holds.
I think what Medusa lacks in rock and move quality is more than made up by the satisfaction of getting to the top, and that Dead Banana is a really good route if you don't mind a couple of polished holds at the start.
Also I agree with bomb, who ever thinks that Stoney is a dump has obviously done the wrong routes there - I was there on Sunday, did an E1, E2 and an E3 and on not one of them did I find any choss or loose holds.
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