UKC

Noobies in the Lakes

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 Little Rascal 17 Oct 2011
Hi all.

Me and my climbing partner have agreed to take out a couple of mates in the lake district, on of whom has 'done a few routes' and the other is a complete beginner.

It's not an area I know well, so can anyone recomend an easily accessible crag (short walk in!) in the North Lakes with good single pitch easier routes? (V.Diffs and Severs really...)

Borrowdale/Keswick area would be ideal...

Many thanks!

Jon

 Andysomething 17 Oct 2011
In reply to Little Rascal: I've had a couple of trips here http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=752 and found the routes more pleasant than I expected - given its use by groups. Five minutes walk from the Bowderstone car park, very user friendly, walk off with care from the terrace along the top of the crag which is reached in one pitch. Given the recent weather I wouldn't vouch for it being in condition - locals may be able to advise better.
 nastyned 17 Oct 2011
In reply to Little Rascal: Shepherds Crag, brown slab
 Leo Woodfelder 17 Oct 2011
In reply to Little Rascal: Black crag! Go and do Troutdale pinnacle, classic route and a great setting!
In reply to Little Rascal: Glaciated Slabs up in Combe Gill, the path up to it runs from Longthwaite down the road on the turn off for stonethwaite in upper Borrowdale (parking on a long corner, up the road and past the church and farm then turn left at a gate after 200m then its up into the combe). Several Diff - S lines, bout 20 min walk in but the views are stunning!!

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=760

Sam
OP Little Rascal 18 Oct 2011
In reply to Little Rascal:

Thanks guys. If we were able to do multi-pitch routes then Shepherds or Black Crag would have been our obvious choice. But as we are looking for single pitch Glaciated Slabs looks nice...

Cheers,
Jon
 Andy Long 18 Oct 2011
In reply to Little Rascal:
Sorry, but what makes you "unable" to do multi-pitch routes? Unwilling, disinclined, lacking confidence perhaps, but "unable"?
 Oujmik 18 Oct 2011
In reply to Little Rascal: My gf and I did our first outdoor climbing with a friendly UKCer on Brown Slabs at Shepherds. We climbed Brown Slabs (Diff) and Brown Slabs Direct (VDiff). They can both be climbed as single pitch easily enough although we did a short pitch to the tree on BS because we were climbing as a three in series and only had one long rope. They're both excellent routes (in my very limited experience!).
OP Little Rascal 18 Oct 2011
In reply to Andy Long:
> (In reply to Little Rascal)
> Sorry, but what makes you "unable" to do multi-pitch routes? Unwilling, disinclined, lacking confidence perhaps, but "unable"?

Well speaking for myself: I am neither unwilling, disinclined, or lacking confidence. If this weekend was about me I'd be looking for classic HVS/E1's in the mountains...

As it happens it's about taking a couple of friends out for an easy first day. My mate has been out a few times and seconded VS, his wife has not even climbed indoors... so the decision has been made to keep it simple. That's all... If that goes ok then Brown Slabs will be entirely possible!
 Andy Long 18 Oct 2011
In reply to Little Rascal:
Fair enough, it was the choice of words that struck me. I do have a bit of a thing about this attitude that seems to have taken root which regards multi-pitch climbing as one-giant-leap-for-mankind relative to single-pitch. It probably has to do with the fact that my friends and I were leading from the moment we started climbing, on both types, so the idea of a distinction never occurred to us. I find it irksome because it's such a retrograde view, which seems to hold back a lot of people. HVS/E1's in the mountains are where its at! I hope they enjoy themselves anyway!
OP Little Rascal 18 Oct 2011
In reply to Andy Long:
> (In reply to Little Rascal)
>...my friends and I were leading from the moment we started climbing, on both types, so the idea of a distinction never occurred to us.

Me too! I would have voted for bombing up Little Chamonix or something similar in two parties with the lass as the 'middle' second. As it happens, it's my climbing partner's choice to do it this way.. and that's fine with me this time.

Cheers
Jon
OP Little Rascal 19 Oct 2011
In reply to Little Rascal:

Any thoughts on Headend Quarry near Ireby? It's close to where we are staying... worth a look do you think?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1268
 tobyk 21 Oct 2011
In reply to Little Rascal:

Hey mate, my parents live in Ireby, so headend is technically one of my locals. where are you staying? I actually learnt to climb there myself, but its not really a classic lakeland crag, but the routes are alright, and the views are ace!

Seriously though, id recommend snail shell crag on carrock fell, proper quality single pitch gabbro routes, all at an easy grade and a nice setting. The angle of the slabs is a very satisfying 40-50 degrees or so, and absolutley perfect for beginners, especially if you want to get away from some of the crowds - go here, and you'll love it!!
OP Little Rascal 25 Oct 2011
In reply to tobyk:

Hi Toby, we stayed with friends in Ireby - popped up to Headend for a morning tope-roping to satisfy the noobs and then did a bit of cherry picking at Shepherds. A good weekend was had!

Jon

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