UKC

Hi Guys,

About to go climbing with my shiny new slate guide this weekend, anyone got any advice/ hints or tips? Also any advice for below E1/ f6b areas?

Cheers

In reply to Rich M:
Bus stop quarry is a reasonable start, a few good routes and close to the car if you need a change of trousers

In reply to Reach>Talent: New shoes, or at least a good edge on them will pay dividends.

In reply to Rich M:
Other things for a slate virgin to think on:

- Don't assume that "bolts" means sport climbing, several bolted slate routes have terrifying run-outs

- Think about the orientation of gear in placements, the strength of slate is very directional.

- Don't pile your rope right at the base of the route, falling slate can cut ropes quite easily.

- Mental Lentils in Vivian quarry is a nice (softish) HVS.

In reply to Rich M:

Expect no gear!

In reply to Little Rascal:

Some routes have no gear, others are fine. Expect to enjoy the climbing, and if you get gripped, remember that it'll be an excellent story in the pub after. Which everyone else will sympathise with, except your 2nd who will have romped up it on top rope just fine.

I like slate. Thumbs up.

In reply to Rich M: Looning the tube E1
Last Tango in Paris E1
We Speak no Americano F6a+ first pitch is forgettable the second pitch is awesome
362 F5c great three pitch sport route
Bella Lugosi area has 1 E1 and 2 F6a+

In reply to Mark Reeves:
These two "6a+'s" both have some ridiculous bolting and i think that they are given E1/E2 in the new guide because of this.

In reply to Rich M: some Brass off sets and rp's ( I.M.Ps ) will be useful.

In reply to Rich M: The Sidings in Australia is a good gentle introduction (lots of good short & well bolted routes at F5 - F6a+) and is easy to combine with a visit to the Looning the Tube area.
Skyline Buttress in Australia also looks good, with plenty of long Trad and Sport lines in the specified grade range.

In reply to Olli-C:

Surely you don't mean Horse Latitudes? The bolting on that is fine, certainly less 'ridiculous' than when it was E2!

In reply to Southern Man:

Agreed - nothing wrong with the bolt placement on this (other than that they shouldn't be there at all, but that's another thread).

In reply to Southern Man: no, he means the two to the right of bella. Frogs and catrin or something like that? 2 bolts in however many metres, E1.

In reply to Rich M:

I have the new guide too and am a slate virgin. Really looking forward to getting into it. I think it may have suited my climbing style a few years back; less into bold technical slabs nowadays, but will be fun nonetheless. This thread is interesting for us slate newbies.

The new guide seems really excellent so far....

In reply to Southern Man:


Horse Latitudes is safe as. It would be safe and much much better with half the bolts. The two bolt routes right of Bella aren't especially safe, nor are they a pushover at their grades, E1/2 seemed fairer IIRC.

jk

In reply to Rich M:

No offence, but if you have the slate guide maybe reading through it and finding somewhere that looks inspiring to you would be the best. The problem with asking UKC is you'll get recommendations of Bus Stop and Serengeti straight away. Save these places for when the rain is in and you need to get out and climb quickly.

TL;DR go have an andventure!

In reply to jkarran:
I was refering to horse lats, and ALive and Kicking, which is piss to reach the first bolt, although it is a bit of reach to clip, after that it is fine. (Take a small stick and some finger tape and make a small 1foot long clip stick and its fine.

Hi

try climbs such as Hawkeye & Fresh Air, and work your way up to Peter Pan. They are climbs close to the main entrance when you enter from bus stop quarry