UKC

Costa classics please? - Murcia/Alicante

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 monkey1 29 Oct 2011
Hi All,

We're off for a 4 dayer staying in Alicante mid Nov (first visit) and were after some route/crag recommendations please. I'm afraid we're only talking 6a+ max grade, and preferably the well bolted stuff where zero/minimal rack is required. We hoped to get 2 days of pure single pitch sport, and 1-2 days multi pitch adventures (longer the better). Looking at Rockfax we're thinking Murcia for the latter, and around where we're staying in Alicante for single pitch. We'll have transport though, so I'd really appreciate any recommendations based on your experiences - we want to make the most of the trip.
Thanks very much in advance.
Dave
 tmawer 29 Oct 2011
In reply to monkey1:

Be aware that some of the multi pitch around Murcia is currently closed until Dec'2013 due to an invasive cactus. Leyva is excellent and Carnival may fit the bill, although I would have liked a cam or hex on one of the easier pitches rather than only having the bolts...but I am probably a whimp! Didre Ubsa on the Pennon would also be a possible. Have fun!
 Thrudge 29 Oct 2011
In reply to monkey1:
Around Alicante, Marin and Forada are both excellent. Forada is in a particularly beautiful setting. Both crags have loads of routes at and below 6a+. Rock quality is good.
 Barry D 29 Oct 2011
If you are staying in Alicante there is quite a lot of climbing, both single pitch and multipitch in the Orihuela/Redovan area.This situated roughly midway between Alicante and Murcia. La Pared Negra has several 5 or 6 pitch routes in the grades you mention and Callosa de Segura has plenty of single pitch climbs. Also can recommend Marin as worth a visit.
 tmawer 29 Oct 2011
In reply to Barry D:

La Pared Negra is closed due to invasive cacti/cactus?.
 EspenK 29 Oct 2011
In reply to monkey1: It's all about the Penon.. I've done UBSA and Via Valencianos, brought a small rack but the climbing is superb all the way!
 Barry D 29 Oct 2011
Do you have a source for the 'invasive cactus' report? The local climbing club appears to having a walk to the cross on the summit of Pared Negra tomorrow, see www.acclivis.org. Also, there is no mention on the Destivel site, http://escuelasdeescalada.desnivel.com/ingles/ficha_i.php?ID=17. So I would think it should ok to climb there.
Barry
 tmawer 29 Oct 2011
In reply to Barry D:

Yes. I attempted to climb there about 10 days ago and there are signs clearly indicating the area is closed to walkers and climbers on the path from the parking opposite the crag, just through the tunnel.
 Geds 29 Oct 2011
In reply to monkey1: Leyva is excellent lots of variety for multi pitching

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