UKC

I must be missing something or being an idiot but having checked the slate wiki, on here and of course the new guide it looks as if there's several new routes in the area? I climbed, I think, RTD but it had more than 4 bolts (as per description), there were bolted lines either side of me (both which climb vague grooves in their middle sections) but there's nothing anywhere that seems to say what these are?

Does anyone know definitively what's what going left to right from Mad on the Metro to Sleeper? There now seems to be about 4 lines between RTD and Sleeper while the guide only shows 1. I know there's a trend in the quarries for questionable filler-in routes so perhaps this is just more of the same, since guide went to print?

In reply to ksjs:
I reckon you climbed Scarface Claw
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=73194

Which has 6 bolts and starts steeply through a bulge.

The groove to the left would be The Fat Controller, with Red Throated Diver and 2nd Class Passanger to your right.

In reply to Sl@te Head: Well, if that's the case then the new guide might be wrong; the line marked number 53 is the line I followed and this is described as Red Throated Diver. 52 is Scarface Claw in the guide and this starts approx 5m left of what I climbed.

It doesn't really start steeply, just a few edges going through a gentle bulge and you then get stood up with left foot on or close to a detached flake. You then make a move onto the main section of slab and follow the bolts more or less direct to the lower off.

Would be good to know all the lines there, it seems quite cluttered / confusing if you don't know what goes where.

In reply to ksjs: As far as I'm aware there has been no new development down there for a while apart from the routesim Kelly added further left A selfish act iof Loonacy etc.

so from L to R as per the guidebook

The Fat Controller 5 bolts
Scarface Claw 6 bolts
Red Throated Diver 4 bolts
2nd Class Passanger 3 bolts
Sleeper 6 Bolts

Fat Controller is a groove just left of Scarface claw and Sleeper is also a groove further right. It's been a while since I've climbed down there but I'm sure the order of the routes is correct, looking at the topo It looks ok to me from memory though Fat Controller and Scarface claw climb up to the same ledge at one point. Hopec that helps...stuill think you did Scarface claw unless someon'e been new routing / adding bolts.

In reply to Sl@te Head: Thanks for the explanation, that all makes sense; a line joins Scarface from left when you stand on the detached flake and I assume this then moves left to gain the groove i.e. that's Fat Controller.

I have a skill for making guidebooks conform to what I see or think I see but I'm 99% sure the line on the photo for RTD is wrong. And the lines for Fat Controller and Scarface don't converge as they should if these routes have a junction shortly after the start.

In reply to Sl@te Head: Just noticed Scarface is a route of yours, very nice climbing too. Not sure what the reference to poor rock is for in the logbook, the rock is good apart from the really obvious suspect flake and that's avoidable.

Also had a crack at Ziplock when up there, felt hard first go. No real time to work but keen to finish this. Another good edition!

In reply to ksjs: I meant 'addition'!