UKC

Adam Ondra seems to have made the first ascent of Terranova, an old project of his at Holstejn near his home in the Czech republic. Adam feels this one is harder than anything else he has done and suggests 8C+.
If this is the problem I think it is, it is relatively long on quite sharp tiny holds...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=64987

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:
It took him 11 days? WTF, does he have a cold?!

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

That was a really enjoyable read. He seems a lot more natural speaking in English than a few years ago.

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

How many 8C+'s are there? He seems to imply its the first 8C+

In reply to pffft:

To me it sounds more like he found it a step harder than the boulders he tried that are fairly well established at 8C. Im sure he'd be the first to point out theres a lot of hard boulders he hasn't done.

In reply to pffft: I think some 8C+ have been claimed, but they are long stamina tests, rather than short problems like this one. It would be interesting to know how Gaskins' short problems compare...

Stunning performance again from Ondra. Incredible that he can be at the very front of the pack at bouldering AND long sport climbs

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: shame its looks crap

In reply to pffft:

I believe 8C+ is an unconfirmed new level in bouldering. Previous 8C+ claims have been downgraded by subsequent ascensionists and in the odd case in hindsight by the FA, or are effectively routes where a bouldering grade is meaningless. I think that's what Ondra Wad is getting at by suggesting it's daft to carry on saying something is just soft/mid/hard 8C, just let the new grade happen.

In reply to catt:

Having said that, has Lucid Dreaming seen a repeat yet?

In reply to catt: I don't think Lucid Dreaming has been repeated. Paul downgraded it himself after climbing other 8C's in Europe and South Africa and following Dave Graham's lead for a new standard for 8C.

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

Some more pics for those interested...

http://www.climb4fun.cz/climb4fun/thumbnails.php?album=84

In reply to catt: is he wearing odd shoes?

In reply to Jiduvah:

is he wearing odd shoes?

Only on one of his feet.

In reply to catt:

No wonder he found it so hard, he took his top off half way through.