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![[Do You Know Where Your Children Are? E8 6c]](http://b.vimeocdn.com/ts/212/994/212994099_200.jpg)
Huntsman's Leap, Pembroke, Wales.
Watch the video: http://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=838
In reply to UKC Videos: Nice one. Looks a great bit of climbing. Nice long sustained route.
In reply to UKC Videos: Awesome effort, I'm inspired to get onto the west wall of the leap!
In reply to UKC Videos:
Nice one Charlie, except for the cam faffing you made it look very easy. Ace looking route.
Nice one Charlie, except for the cam faffing you made it look very easy. Ace looking route.
In reply to UKC Videos: Great video and so refreshing not to have to listen to a music soundtrack as well.
In reply to Xavierpercy:
Excellent, and totally with you about the music.
Didn't think he made it look *that* easy! Quite the reverse really - I liked the way even really good climbers can prat about with gear like the rest of us, and the easier top part stayed interesting because he looked tired and had to keep it together.
jcm
Excellent, and totally with you about the music.
Didn't think he made it look *that* easy! Quite the reverse really - I liked the way even really good climbers can prat about with gear like the rest of us, and the easier top part stayed interesting because he looked tired and had to keep it together.
jcm
In reply to UKC Videos:
Thanks. One of the best.
Proper climbing, filmed as it happened without gimmicks - always a winner.
Thanks. One of the best.
Proper climbing, filmed as it happened without gimmicks - always a winner.
In reply to UKC Videos:
really captivating, couldn't believe it was 18mins, felt like 5. Quality effort from the climber and film maker.
really captivating, couldn't believe it was 18mins, felt like 5. Quality effort from the climber and film maker.
In reply to UKC Videos:
Magic video, true climbing without 'distracting' music, jerking around shots, 'art' focus etc. Make more of these, and sell them, they will be really popular.
Magic video, true climbing without 'distracting' music, jerking around shots, 'art' focus etc. Make more of these, and sell them, they will be really popular.
In reply to johncook:
Instead we get an irritating continuous stream of 'go on mate's.
Instead we get an irritating continuous stream of 'go on mate's.
In reply to UKC Videos:
What a brilliant and inspiring little film. To those that don't think he made it look easy - perhaps you don't push yourself enough? I thought he cruised it!
What a brilliant and inspiring little film. To those that don't think he made it look easy - perhaps you don't push yourself enough? I thought he cruised it!
In reply to UKC Videos:
Great video and what an amazing looking line. Does anyone know (or want to guess) what sort of French grade the routes on this side of the Leap get? I've hear 6c+ for Head Hunter, 7a+ for Ghost Train and 8b for Muy Caliente. Any others?
Great video and what an amazing looking line. Does anyone know (or want to guess) what sort of French grade the routes on this side of the Leap get? I've hear 6c+ for Head Hunter, 7a+ for Ghost Train and 8b for Muy Caliente. Any others?
In reply to UKC Videos:
Rad video. Proper RAD. Could have done with the tiniest bit of trance for suspense on the crux, but I loved how quiet it was Nice effort all round.
Rad video. Proper RAD. Could have done with the tiniest bit of trance for suspense on the crux, but I loved how quiet it was Nice effort all round.
In reply to Tyler: I posted ages ago asking for sport grades for a few things some of which were in The Leap. Only thing I've done on that wall is Bloody Sunday which was 6b/+, bit sketchy at the start - wave worn and fiddly but good gear. Had a bash at Head Hunter but it's straight into the climbing of the ground and I got a bit intimidated though now 'only' E4 apparently.
Others' grade suggestions were:
Minotaur 6c/7a, 7a, 7a, 6c-7a+ (wide variance here accounted for by crux being reach dependant)
Head Hunter 6b+/c, 6c, 6c, 6c/+, 6c+, 6c
In case that lot doesn't make sense, 4 people suggested grades for Minotaur and 6 for Head Hunter. Head Hunter sounds tough at E4?
Others' grade suggestions were:
Minotaur 6c/7a, 7a, 7a, 6c-7a+ (wide variance here accounted for by crux being reach dependant)
Head Hunter 6b+/c, 6c, 6c, 6c/+, 6c+, 6c
In case that lot doesn't make sense, 4 people suggested grades for Minotaur and 6 for Head Hunter. Head Hunter sounds tough at E4?
In reply to UKC Videos:
Really liked this film. What a great looking route and agree with Tom that he cruised it! It also reminded me just how amazing the rock is in the leap.
Really liked this film. What a great looking route and agree with Tom that he cruised it! It also reminded me just how amazing the rock is in the leap.
In reply to UKC Videos: Video stopped half way through but the first section alone looks incredible, cool moves. That rock / wall is just so beautiful too.
Not taking anything away from Charlie's efforts but I assume this was a headpoint and if so why the trying of different placements / gear at the shield? Was it a flash? Or did Charlie just decide what he had didn't look so good / discover another placement?
Not taking anything away from Charlie's efforts but I assume this was a headpoint and if so why the trying of different placements / gear at the shield? Was it a flash? Or did Charlie just decide what he had didn't look so good / discover another placement?
Yeah, what everyone said, really sweet film with a great style. Nice one.
In reply to ksjs:
Doing Head Hunter in 6 pitches would certainly bring the E grade down a bit. An awful lot of faff though.
> Head Hunter 6b+/c, 6c, 6c, 6c/+, 6c+, 6c
Doing Head Hunter in 6 pitches would certainly bring the E grade down a bit. An awful lot of faff though.
In reply to Robert Durran: They'd all be 6c though so still not so easy!
In reply to ksjs:
But each pitch would only be about 5 metres long - actually, I suppose they would then need to be technically desperate to get 6c (but they're not)
Some of the belays would be pretty poor though - does that add to the E grade?
> (In reply to Robert Durran) They'd all be 6c though so still not so easy!
But each pitch would only be about 5 metres long - actually, I suppose they would then need to be technically desperate to get 6c (but they're not)
Some of the belays would be pretty poor though - does that add to the E grade?
In reply to ksjs:
No surprises then that of 22 people who voted in the UKC log, nobody voted for E4 and 9 of the 22 voted for E5 rather than 'Easy E5'. Wonder why it was downgraded? Didn't feel particularly E4 straight off the deck to me.
> Head Hunter sounds tough at E4?
No surprises then that of 22 people who voted in the UKC log, nobody voted for E4 and 9 of the 22 voted for E5 rather than 'Easy E5'. Wonder why it was downgraded? Didn't feel particularly E4 straight off the deck to me.
In reply to Robert Durran: We'll just have to wait and see for the first multi-pitch ascent of the perma 6c version of Head Hunter to see...
In reply to JuneBob:
Yeah a little annoying but nowhere near as annoying AS MOST OF THE MUSIC SOUNDTRACKS ON CLIMBING FILMS NOWADAYS
> (In reply to johncook)
> Instead we get an irritating continuous stream of 'go on mate's.
> Instead we get an irritating continuous stream of 'go on mate's.
Yeah a little annoying but nowhere near as annoying AS MOST OF THE MUSIC SOUNDTRACKS ON CLIMBING FILMS NOWADAYS
In reply to Pylon King:
Bloody hell, take a chill pill the both of ya!! I find, 90% of climbing film music good and often hunt out the track and listen to it at my leisure.
I didn't find the go on mate's annoying as I doubt the person filming was thinking "better just keep quiet as JuneBob might not like me encouraging my mate on this E8 he is trying hard on" No, she thought, I'll give him a bit of encouragement to know we all want him to succeed.
A little bit of tolerence goes a long way and I think a lot of the time people over look this...
Again, brilliant vid...
Dunc
> (In reply to JuneBob)
> [...] Annoying "go on mate"'s
>
> Yeah a little annoying but nowhere near as annoying AS MOST OF THE MUSIC SOUNDTRACKS ON CLIMBING FILMS NOWADAYS
> [...] Annoying "go on mate"'s
>
> Yeah a little annoying but nowhere near as annoying AS MOST OF THE MUSIC SOUNDTRACKS ON CLIMBING FILMS NOWADAYS
Bloody hell, take a chill pill the both of ya!! I find, 90% of climbing film music good and often hunt out the track and listen to it at my leisure.
I didn't find the go on mate's annoying as I doubt the person filming was thinking "better just keep quiet as JuneBob might not like me encouraging my mate on this E8 he is trying hard on" No, she thought, I'll give him a bit of encouragement to know we all want him to succeed.
A little bit of tolerence goes a long way and I think a lot of the time people over look this...
Again, brilliant vid...
Dunc
In reply to Pylon King:
Maybe more because you don't like the choice of music, than the fact that there is music, Mark? Must agree, the encouragement, whilst completely natural, does ever so slightly detract, for me (but not nearly as much as a bunch of Brits shouting 'Allez, allez... ') Brilliant little vid and a brilliant looking route.
> (In reply to JuneBob)
> [...]
>
> Yeah a little annoying but nowhere near as annoying AS MOST OF THE MUSIC SOUNDTRACKS ON CLIMBING FILMS NOWADAYS
> [...]
>
> Yeah a little annoying but nowhere near as annoying AS MOST OF THE MUSIC SOUNDTRACKS ON CLIMBING FILMS NOWADAYS
Maybe more because you don't like the choice of music, than the fact that there is music, Mark? Must agree, the encouragement, whilst completely natural, does ever so slightly detract, for me (but not nearly as much as a bunch of Brits shouting 'Allez, allez... ') Brilliant little vid and a brilliant looking route.
In reply to Duncan Campbell:
Gilly's his wife. Maybe JuneBob should mail her to ask if she can keep her voice down next time she films him. So inconsiderate she is.
> I didn't find the go on mate's annoying as I doubt the person filming was thinking "better just keep quiet as JuneBob might not like me encouraging my mate on this E8 he is trying hard on" No, she thought, I'll give him a bit of encouragement to know we all want him to succeed.
Gilly's his wife. Maybe JuneBob should mail her to ask if she can keep her voice down next time she films him. So inconsiderate she is.
In reply to ali k:
Great video which made really enjoyable viewing.
I think the point others have been making about the 'go on mate' commentary is that the video tracks have been very well edited, so the audio tracks could have been too. (I found it just a bit too intrusive for my own personal taste as I don't like getting continuous encouragement when climbing at my limit.) Just my tuppence worth in terms of the editing but I wouldn't want the criticism to detract from that fantastic climbing on a great bit of rock. The moves, particularly at the start, look incredible. Great job all round!
Great video which made really enjoyable viewing.
I think the point others have been making about the 'go on mate' commentary is that the video tracks have been very well edited, so the audio tracks could have been too. (I found it just a bit too intrusive for my own personal taste as I don't like getting continuous encouragement when climbing at my limit.) Just my tuppence worth in terms of the editing but I wouldn't want the criticism to detract from that fantastic climbing on a great bit of rock. The moves, particularly at the start, look incredible. Great job all round!
In reply to UKC Videos:
I never understand people bitching about the sound of people shouting encouragement on videos. It's real life, innit? They'd do better to reflect on why it is that they like climbing badly in silence whereas the people in the videos climb hard with encouragement.
jcm
I never understand people bitching about the sound of people shouting encouragement on videos. It's real life, innit? They'd do better to reflect on why it is that they like climbing badly in silence whereas the people in the videos climb hard with encouragement.
jcm
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
If you like someone babbling on at your every move, then fine. Personally I prefer encouragement only at the right time, not continuously. It's simply personal preference - get over it and stop telling folk what they'd be better doing.
If you like someone babbling on at your every move, then fine. Personally I prefer encouragement only at the right time, not continuously. It's simply personal preference - get over it and stop telling folk what they'd be better doing.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Quite.
> (In reply to UKC Videos)
> They'd do better to reflect on why it is that they like climbing badly in silence whereas the people in the videos climb hard with encouragement.
> They'd do better to reflect on why it is that they like climbing badly in silence whereas the people in the videos climb hard with encouragement.
Quite.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
A curiously illogical statement from someone so sharp when it comes to probability problems. Some of us climb brilliantly without any encouragement at all. Others will always be crap,however much encouragement they get.
Seriously though, the only "encouragement" I object to is people saying "go for it" when doing so might result in serious injury or death - situations when only the leader is in a position to make an informed decision whether to "go for it" or not.
> (In reply to UKC Videos)
> They'd do better to reflect on why it is that they like climbing badly in silence whereas the people in the videos climb hard with encouragement.
> They'd do better to reflect on why it is that they like climbing badly in silence whereas the people in the videos climb hard with encouragement.
A curiously illogical statement from someone so sharp when it comes to probability problems. Some of us climb brilliantly without any encouragement at all. Others will always be crap,however much encouragement they get.
Seriously though, the only "encouragement" I object to is people saying "go for it" when doing so might result in serious injury or death - situations when only the leader is in a position to make an informed decision whether to "go for it" or not.
In reply to jon:
but that's the best thing about going climbing in France!
> (In reply to Pylon King)
> [...]
>
> (but not nearly as much as a bunch of Brits shouting 'Allez, allez... ')
> [...]
>
> (but not nearly as much as a bunch of Brits shouting 'Allez, allez... ')
but that's the best thing about going climbing in France!
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Come on! Tight! Come on dude! Come on....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xNY0-xNC_cw&feature=player_embedded
Come on! Tight! Come on dude! Come on....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xNY0-xNC_cw&feature=player_embedded
In reply to Michael Gordon:
Maybe, but it sounds stupid at Raventor!
> (but not nearly as much as a bunch of Brits shouting 'Allez, allez... ')
> but that's the best thing about going climbing in France!
Maybe, but it sounds stupid at Raventor!
In reply to Duncan Campbell:
Sorry - that was a bit of a quick snipey comment. However, my personal opinion is that the video is great but I don't like the go on's.
Note there's similar criticism on this thread : http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=483880
I don't hear any of you lot standing up for that guy.
Sorry - that was a bit of a quick snipey comment. However, my personal opinion is that the video is great but I don't like the go on's.
Note there's similar criticism on this thread : http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=483880
I don't hear any of you lot standing up for that guy.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
The sound of someone shitting on the toilet is real life too, but I don't like to hear it.
The sound of someone shitting on the toilet is real life too, but I don't like to hear it.
In reply to ali k:
She can make all the racket she likes when she is there, but when they edited the film they obviously made a concious decision to leave the sound as it was. Some people here like that, I just happen to be one of the people that doesn't.
She can make all the racket she likes when she is there, but when they edited the film they obviously made a concious decision to leave the sound as it was. Some people here like that, I just happen to be one of the people that doesn't.
In reply to UKC Videos:
Amazing video by the way. The encouragement, I thought, only added to the suspense as it was obviously meant to serve more as a personal comfort for the concerned onlooker (family member as it turns out) rather than make any real difference to the amazing climbing captured on film.
IMHO of course, wouldn't want to upset anyone blah blah blah blah... FFS. Turn your sound off, THERE'S NO SOUNDTRACK!!!
Amazing video by the way. The encouragement, I thought, only added to the suspense as it was obviously meant to serve more as a personal comfort for the concerned onlooker (family member as it turns out) rather than make any real difference to the amazing climbing captured on film.
IMHO of course, wouldn't want to upset anyone blah blah blah blah... FFS. Turn your sound off, THERE'S NO SOUNDTRACK!!!
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