In reply to Mick Ryan - Senior Editor - UKC:
I agree, it doesn't need a many-leveled scale. I'd say a '!' rather than an X - as its already used in the font guide and won;t be confused with stars.
2 or 3 levels would suffice:
! - a high boulder problem, several mats required
!! - a very high problem, many mats, spotters, luck etc required
!!! - moves in to the 'no-fall' zone ie soloing.
In reply to John Roberts (JR):
>Comparing it to superstition yeah it's not E8, but given that (AFAIK) no-one but Miles can even do the damn thing top rope or no top rope would anyone be arguing with superstition getting E9 or possibly harder? Same goes for superbloc.
Hmmm, don't beleive in the myths. Ground-up repeats have come very close - a one move slap to the ledge - and stopped due to fear more than difficulty. IE with even a little rehearsal you would have had two repeats last winter. My take on Miles' grade was that it wasn't very high and it wasn't death therefore E8 7a on the same scale that gives West Side Story E4 7a. Giving Superbloc E9 is even dafter, what are you on?
Equilibrium is a good bit higher than either, you wouldn't consider a fall onto pads from the crux.
>However, you can have a parachute failure from 20,000ft and get away with only a tear in your pants.
I was waiting for someone to say that. Irrelevant. Saying a 25ft fall onto a not horrendous landing is E9+ or E10 is why the americans are laughing at us.