UKC

This week we are showing a three part film on traditional climbing in the Lake District.

Part two includes footage of James McHaffie onsighting Dawes Rides a Shovel Head (E8 6c) as well as Adam Hocking on Return of the King (E9 6c).

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=65401

In reply to UKC News: Thanks to Dom for letting us show this film on UKC.

I really enjoyed part 1, and thought this part was even better. Nice to see Birks looking on Caff, Hock et al still as youngsters!

The Lakes scene is indeed in good hands. Wonder where the next set of super routes will come from, or indeed if there is even room for more routes?

Looking forward to part 3 on Friday night very much.

Cheers,

Jack

In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor: Thanks Jack, glad you have enjoyed it. I reckon these youngsters have got a few things up their sleeves!!

In reply to UKC News: Fantastic!

In reply to UKC News:

Incredible climbing on shovel head - made it look like VS!

Had he come off and pulled the ropes on Return of the King or was it done with pre-placed gear? No intention of picking holes - just wondered why the last piece was placed during the footage we saw.

In reply to UKC News: Thought this was a really good chapter, but although the Return of the King Footage was good (Great effort Hock), I personally would have preferred to see more of Caff on Dawes Rides a Shovelhead, as onsight climbing inspires me more and is easier to relate to for me, having no intention of seriously headpointing anything...

But another great bit of footage. Caff looked totally chilled, defo more E8 onsights to come from him I hope!

Dunc

In reply to UKC News: Great footage, but I thought the fade towards the end of Return of the King spoilt the mood somewhat, I know it was timed for the music, but that seemed to be the bit where he was struggling the most!

In reply to Duncan Campbell: It was a shame not to include a little more of Caff's ascent, however that shoot was a little more challenging and some of the footage didn't come out so well. Didn't want to jeopardise the quality of the film overall. I'm sure he's got plenty more ascents like that up his sleeve.

Cheers. Dom

In reply to petellis: Hock had some pre-placed gear and he placed some on the lead. Dom

In reply to Duncan Campbell:

Caff thought it was closer to e6 than e8

In reply to UKC News: Can you provide these vids in an iPhone friendly format please? Flash is a dieing beast now a days and for good reason.

In reply to CurlyStevo:

(off topic but whats the deal with that at the minute?)

Great movie, the angle which shows the steepness of 'Return of the king' is great viewing. All my Lake District experiences can be summed up in the opening raining scenes so I already feel a deep connection. keep up the good work.

In reply to CurlyStevo: Hi,

We don't host the videos on UKC.

These videos are embedded using the Vimeo iframe code, which is supposed to support iPhone/iPad etc.

Please take up any technical issues with Vimeo.

Thanks!

Jack

In reply to Land and Sky Media: Fair doos, still a brilliant bit of filming and cheers for letting us watch for free!

In reply to doylo: Really!?!? Thats bloody mental, animal!!

In reply to Duncan Campbell: No worries, glad you've enjoyed them.

In reply to Land and Sky Media:

Thanks, I had wondered what approach he had taken. Did you not get any footage of him falling onto it then? As ever, with climbing films our in devils are sort of hoping to watch someone fall off! Of course this is based on the knowledge a serious film maker wouldn't show some one getting hurt - or at least badly hurt.

In reply to TobyA: Did he fall onto it? I assumed he'd clipped gear and downclimbed for a rest.
I guess as it was a simpler placement he put the last bit in on the lead for good style.

In reply to UKC News: Great stuff btw, looking forward to part 3.

In reply to UKC News: No he didn't fall, he left a couple of key bits in after practicing the route and placed some on lead.

In reply to Land and Sky Media:

Superb music choice for Return of the King. Love it.

In reply to CurlyStevo: get an android phone.... problemo solved.

In reply to UKC News: I like how he manages to grope blindly round the roof to exactly where the hold is. Looked very smooth for an 'onsight'

In reply to wando77: what are you insinuating?

In reply to wando77:

So you are insinuating Caff didn't onsight the route. Wow, this should be interesting.

In reply to wando77: Maybe he's just that much better than the rest of us, eh? Thats what the data implies.

In reply to wando77: You can see in the video he keeps looking up to see where the holds are. That's what you do when you climb - you use your eyes to see where to go.

In reply to wando77:

your watching a climber who had just climbed 9a on a 7b!

I held his ropes, he did onsight it and pissed it as did Mclure.

it's just the Caffs and Mclures of this world are in a totally different league to us mere mortals.

Woody

In reply to wando77:

Ha ha!! Not even the best trad climber in the world?

Like woody says - a 9a climber on a 7b.

E

In reply to wando77: Caff didn't hit the hold first time, the edit doesn't show every move in a climbing sequence, sometimes just the ones that matter. He reached for the hold a couple of times....but I edited them out!