UKC

So; flights, accom and transport booked, partner's Rockfax thumbed and drooled over....
Even bought a couple of speedy screws.
Which brings me to the next consideration, what actual hardware apart from spikey things and helmets, should we take for upto (maybe) WI 5 in and around Rjukan.

Between us we have 2 comprehensive trad rock racks and about 8 ice screws. What to put in the (2x15Kg) case and what to leave out and is 8 screws enough?

Cheers

In reply to andic: Andy Kirkpatrick recommends the following for 'casades':

Wires: Three (3, 6, 10)
Big nuts: One size 7 hex or 5 Rockcentric
Pegs: One short blade, one long blade, one long, thin Lost Arrow.
Screws: Two stubby (between 10-13cm) eight medium (17cm to 19cm) four long (22cm).
Drive-ins: One hook.
Quickdraws: Five 20cm, five 30cm, four shock absorbing slings.
Slings: Four 60cm slings, two 120cm, one 240cm.

In reply to andic:

Leave out the rock gear and take some slings and all the screws you have and can borrow. On the cragging style venues (Krokan, Lower Gorge etc.) you only need about 8 screws and some slings to belay off the trees at the top. For longer routes, I would prefer more screws for belays, but you could always use threads. Certain of the harder routes might need some rock gear, but there is plenty to go at that you won't miss it if you leave it behind.

we took rock pro but never used it. take upto 12 screws if you can. especially for multi pitch which you'll want to do. abolokov threader thingy. also ice clippers and/or flutes for racking gear. we use a bandolier there too.

wear your boots and as much clothing as you can as they are hot on charging over 15kg - weigh before you go.

In reply to andic:

As other people have stated, more screws, less rock gear. Plenty of different size slings and some lockers.

In reply to dan bulman:


Yeah, that is the other worry, I'm sure we wont be the first passengers who turn up looking like a tomato and a space hopper with platform boots on. Anything unoffensive is going in the hand-luggage too.

In reply to andic:

I took rock gear, but won't bother next time, didnt need it. 12 screws seemed about right, 2 per belay, leaving 8 per pitch. You can hire screws in the town.

In reply to andic:
Didn't use any rock gear in Rjukan. Most of the routes are pure ice. 8 isn't really enough, unless you do short pitches (where possible) or are very brave. 4 for belays leaves 4 for the pitch - not much for a long pitch! I suppose you could use 1 screw + 2 abalokovs per belay. Then you need at least one long screw and plenty of tat. 6 screws still not a lot for a long pitch though. Of course lots of shorter pitches there as well.

In reply to andic: like everyone's said so far, more screws. and make them express screws as well, you'll thank yourself for that when you're there. I'd take quite a bit of 6mm cord to use for abalakov/v threads. i'd swap the rock gear for extra chocolate/energy bars etc, theyre incredibly expensive out there!

In reply to andic:

If you are bringing rock gear for some of the mixed routes, and there are only a few that need it, bring sizes 3-9 (WC) on the wires and cams from smallish to medium.

In reply to andic:
In my experience there is no need for rock gear or pegs but 8 screws is a bit limiting unless you like to run it out on some of the longer routes. Check your screws to make sure they are sharp and modern, BD Turbo or grivel Helix are great, you want screws that go in quickly with one hand. If you need to buy some more your body and brain will you thank you for buying wisely. The first time we went we had one titanium screw made by Camp - looked the business but we couldn't even place it at ground level using both hands and leaning full body weight on the damn thing

PS. If you want to do Rjukanfossen (yes I know Rockfax giver it a russian roulette symbol but ask locally and you will get advice on the prospect of an early and deep bath)take a friend 3 and 2.5 for the very last moves over a frequently bare chockstone.

In reply to andic:

I'd not bother with rock gear either.
Belays tend to be on screws/ threads so I'd maximise the screws- 10 or 12 would be a better number if you're doing multi pitch stuff.
Other than that, tat is pretty useful. Take a handful of bits pre- cut for abalakovs and for putting round any trees that might not have tat, or have knackered tat on them. It'll be cheaper than sacrificing slings.

In reply to andic:

More "good" screws. Placing a screw on steep ice isn't too easy so don't kid yourself you be able to place anything other than a good sharp screw.

If you go for some of the ten pitch things then you need to move quite fast to get up them in day light so again don't expect to have time to form abacov threads for runners or belays. A good quick belay setup uses a 120 sling with two strategically located pre-tied overhand knots to trap a power point crab in a self-equalising zone between two screws.

As a minimum for multi pitch...
2x 50m half ropes
2x120 slings
4x locking crabs
2x hms crabs
2x belay device and crab
12x ice screws
8x extenders
Abacov tool
Knive
10m 7mm cord.
Warm belay jacket!

Extra's might include half a set of nuts, a couple of pegs and big 240 sling for around trees.

In reply to JLS:

Thanks everyone,

Seems like the consensus is that we need to lay our hands on another four or five screws, as I suspected,