UKC

Hi,

I have read a couple of spanish sites describing the 10cm screw as for aiding only. Is it considered sufficient for leader falls on good ice? I want to get one for climbing gullies where decent ice might be pretty thin but to also use as one of my screws for climbing icefalls - probably placed last when there is a lot of rope out to limit impact etc.
I have 16cm screws so the drop to 13cm as my "stubby" screw doesn't seem that significant.
Any advice/thoughts appreciated!

Tom

In reply to tnj:

if its a laser/sonic then id have at least one.

as its the thread thats holding most of the force in the fall, theres as much thread on a 10cm as on a longer screw.

a 13cm you could tie off may be even better tho, the extra few cms when available in the ice will be appreciated.

In reply to tnj: I don't think 10cm screws are CE rated, hence the guidance for progression/aid only. Doesn't mean they're useless for protection though.

Take a look at this: strikerescue.com/file_download/1

I think they only tested Grivel and Petzl screws, which I think are 13cm screws but they still reported respectable loads placed facing downwards and in *good ice* - which is the key thing no matter what length the screw

In reply to iksander:
I'm pretty sure the 10cm BD express screws are UIAA rated.

In reply to ice.solo:

Isn't a shorter screw up to the hilt much better than a tied-off screw though?

In reply to tnj:

I would think so. Especially since a short (or maybe any screw) should be have a negative angle, facing down, so tying off is fairly tricky.

In reply to tnj:
http://www.needlesports.com/catalogue/content.aspx?con_id=095232e4-4caf-49e...

"The best option is to simply place a screw of the appropriate length and not have to worry about tie offs altogether."

Seen other stuff saying the same thing too

In reply to CurlyStevo:

Yeah I read the BD report on Needlesports' site too. It made me think a 10cm screw fully wound-in would be better than a 13cm sticking out and tied-off. I will probably go with the 10cm screw.