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What gear/size gear goes in London Wall at Millstone? What experiences have people had on it?
In reply to Gaz22:
You mean that thin peg scarred crack that looks like it'll take every small nut and micro you can carry?
I'd take some huge hexes and a bucket load of large cams.
You mean that thin peg scarred crack that looks like it'll take every small nut and micro you can carry?
I'd take some huge hexes and a bucket load of large cams.
In reply to Gaz22:
Millstone in the winter? Surely its perfect for torquing axes and crampons
Millstone in the winter? Surely its perfect for torquing axes and crampons
In reply to Gaz22: seriously though, I was thinking cam sizes. The point is im going to invest in some smaller/micro cams with this route being a starting point for there use.
In reply to Gaz22: Ffs, cams ?? just standard double wires, no rp's, no hexes, no cams, no big bros, no bongs, no car jacks, no problem.
In reply to David Peters: No answers then? Thanks for the replies guys
In reply to Gaz22:
You don't need cams.
Wires are fine.
Not done it myself, but watched a few ascents/attempts.
Before all these micro cams, people used to be able to lace it up.
You don't need cams.
Wires are fine.
Not done it myself, but watched a few ascents/attempts.
Before all these micro cams, people used to be able to lace it up.
In reply to Ghastly Rubberfeet: Thankyou
In reply to Gaz22:
When I aid climbed it a few years ago I managed to get a couple of small cams in down low, I think up to about size 2 wild country, and then I got a few zeros (4,5,6) somewhere around the horizontal traverse left. I can't remember what I used much higher up, but I seem to remember that it opens up in a couple of places and you could probably get another couple of friends size 1-3 in if you were really lacing the route and not running it out.
When I aid climbed it a few years ago I managed to get a couple of small cams in down low, I think up to about size 2 wild country, and then I got a few zeros (4,5,6) somewhere around the horizontal traverse left. I can't remember what I used much higher up, but I seem to remember that it opens up in a couple of places and you could probably get another couple of friends size 1-3 in if you were really lacing the route and not running it out.
In reply to Gaz22: Forgot to say that there is an excellent article about it here: http://www.planetfear.com/articles/Beta_Cheater_Guide_to_London_Wall_259.ht...
In reply to Phil Payne: Thanks. I know the onsight ethic is strong in alot of people and I to like it, but If I can get a bit of beta to help me climb some of my dream routes before im to old or physicaly past it then I dont mind.
but If I can get a bit of beta to help me climb some of my dream routes before im to old or physicaly past it then I dont mind.
That sounds fair enough and I tend to agree with you as I'm hitting 40 myself
but your profile states that your only 23 mate.
But, if you really want the beta watch Neil Greshams Masterclass as there's a chapter of him on London Wall fiddling in those bomber small wires the lot.
In reply to Gaz22:
A set of small to medium wires. Here they are: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=136205
A set of small to medium wires. Here they are: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=136205
In reply to Gaz22:
I could give you some beta on the age thing. Don't start worrying about it for another 15 to 20 years. I think having kids will slow you down more than the passing of years!
Even then, with a strong will you could still push hard.
I am 50 this year, have been climbing nearly 20 years and I am, I would say climbing as good if not better than ever ( admitedly that's not brilliant but....)
> dream routes before im to old or physicaly past it
I could give you some beta on the age thing. Don't start worrying about it for another 15 to 20 years. I think having kids will slow you down more than the passing of years!
Even then, with a strong will you could still push hard.
I am 50 this year, have been climbing nearly 20 years and I am, I would say climbing as good if not better than ever ( admitedly that's not brilliant but....)
In reply to Gaz22:
Hi Gaz I too am a bit perplexed why you'd be asking questions about gear for such an obvious crack line. Its still uncommonly onsighted and then usually only by the best climbers (Alex Honnolds fairly recent on-sight solo was regarded a significant ascent and he's as good as trad climbers get). The classics of this type really should be saved until you are ready and for that you should have a good number of mid-extreme finger cracks ticked in good style. How many of these have you done so far?
Hi Gaz I too am a bit perplexed why you'd be asking questions about gear for such an obvious crack line. Its still uncommonly onsighted and then usually only by the best climbers (Alex Honnolds fairly recent on-sight solo was regarded a significant ascent and he's as good as trad climbers get). The classics of this type really should be saved until you are ready and for that you should have a good number of mid-extreme finger cracks ticked in good style. How many of these have you done so far?
In reply to Gaz22:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=188
Nice Ticklist here for some progression. They're all class routes as well, so enjoy.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=188
Nice Ticklist here for some progression. They're all class routes as well, so enjoy.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
I'd say you need a lot more E2-E4 routes in practice. The list is a good set of markers to show you're making progress.
I'd say you need a lot more E2-E4 routes in practice. The list is a good set of markers to show you're making progress.
In reply to Gaz22:
Take a look at the colour of Jon's hair - imagine how old he must have been in that photo...!
Take a look at the colour of Jon's hair - imagine how old he must have been in that photo...!
In reply to Daniel Heath:
There's also loads of practice options in the quarries around Bolton (Wilton/Anglezarke/Egerton/etc) - since that's where you reside when not away with the forces.
There's also loads of practice options in the quarries around Bolton (Wilton/Anglezarke/Egerton/etc) - since that's where you reside when not away with the forces.
I have watched Neil Greshams master class , when he climbs it he has all his gear pre placed ...
good route , one I would like to work up to
good route , one I would like to work up to
In reply to Calder:
Excellent advice.
I watched this man http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/profile.php?id=69227 make an early (4th?) ascent. He cruised it, due in no little part to an apprenticeship in the Lancs. quarries. After Constable's Overhang it probably didn't feel too bad.
Excellent advice.
I watched this man http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/profile.php?id=69227 make an early (4th?) ascent. He cruised it, due in no little part to an apprenticeship in the Lancs. quarries. After Constable's Overhang it probably didn't feel too bad.
In reply to flaneur: I'd like to make suggestions but I'm sure there's people better placed than me. Still, Lancashire Rock'd point him at all the main contenders.
In reply to Calder:
And picking up The Brick a few times would be more than adequate training.
> (In reply to flaneur) I'd like to make suggestions but I'm sure there's people better placed than me. Still, Lancashire Rock'd point him at all the main contenders.
And picking up The Brick a few times would be more than adequate training.
In reply to AndyE9:
That's not true.
> I have watched Neil Greshams master class , when he climbs it he has all his gear pre placed ...
>
> good route , one I would like to work up to
>
> good route , one I would like to work up to
That's not true.
In reply to the weegy: 23 I may be but my job doesn't do wonders for my body I know there is still plenty of time to do these type of routes, I just don't want to 'leave it until im ready' and then find out I was ready years ago and then not be able to do it.
In reply to Gaz22: Fair enough, I think if anyone can get up London Wall with or without the numbers then they're doing alright!
Millstone's easily my fave crag and I live in Scotland!
Millstone's easily my fave crag and I live in Scotland!
In reply to Ian Parsons:
IIRC Jon was born with hair that colour!
;~))
> (In reply to Gaz22)
>
> Take a look at the colour of Jon's hair - imagine how old he must have been in that photo...!
>
> Take a look at the colour of Jon's hair - imagine how old he must have been in that photo...!
IIRC Jon was born with hair that colour!
;~))
In reply to Ghastly Rubberfeet:
Indeed; had I phrased that as a question, it would have been a trick one!
Indeed; had I phrased that as a question, it would have been a trick one!
In reply to Gaz22: Dude theres loads of pro on London Wall!! Don't think about protection so much or you will fall! Get psyched, get charged up and crush it!
In reply to Gaz22:
"I just don't want to 'leave it until im ready' and then find out I was ready years ago and then not be able to do it."
I've just read some of your posts on your profile as you didn't indicate how many extreme finger cracks you've ticked so far. The logbook list didn't help much with one lead (Heaven Crack) but you state in another post there that you are a VS leader. As such, the advice above about Lancashire Quarries will likely be very useful. Back on the Eastern edges a good VS finger crack that gives the 'feel' of these vertical finger lock routes at your current grade is Once Pegged Wall in Lawrencefield; when after training you begin to find this easy try the direct finish of the same route; next try Rugosity Crack at Stanage, next again is Nonsuch at Rivelin.
One purpose of grades is to tell you when you are ready. So climb gradually harder stuff on lead with similar style until you start to fail at a particular grade then train in volume at and just above this grade(bouldering seconding or top-roping) to get better.
"I just don't want to 'leave it until im ready' and then find out I was ready years ago and then not be able to do it."
I've just read some of your posts on your profile as you didn't indicate how many extreme finger cracks you've ticked so far. The logbook list didn't help much with one lead (Heaven Crack) but you state in another post there that you are a VS leader. As such, the advice above about Lancashire Quarries will likely be very useful. Back on the Eastern edges a good VS finger crack that gives the 'feel' of these vertical finger lock routes at your current grade is Once Pegged Wall in Lawrencefield; when after training you begin to find this easy try the direct finish of the same route; next try Rugosity Crack at Stanage, next again is Nonsuch at Rivelin.
One purpose of grades is to tell you when you are ready. So climb gradually harder stuff on lead with similar style until you start to fail at a particular grade then train in volume at and just above this grade(bouldering seconding or top-roping) to get better.
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Maybe later on ... wasn't the OP there climbing well into the 7's sport grade wise and with plenty of extreme finger cracks ticked already.
Maybe later on ... wasn't the OP there climbing well into the 7's sport grade wise and with plenty of extreme finger cracks ticked already.
In reply to Offwidth:
Truly excellent advice! I think you (Gaz) have loads of time ahead of you and would repeat what earlier posters have said about waiting until you can achieve your aspirations in good style.
To help you, here's some routes in Wilton 1 or 3 which are, in parts, either steep or fingery or both:
Crooked Crack VS 4c
Central Route HVS 5a
Ann E1 5b
Paradox E2 5c
Grader E3 5c
Supercrack E3 5c
Max E3 5c
Loopy E4 6a
Master Spy Direct E4 6a
Adrenalin E4 6a
In the last five years I have either soloed, led, seconded or been hauled up all of them. I am 59 years old and have never been anything more than a competent climber. Take your time and enjoy the journey: the destination will be so much more satisfying if you do
> (In reply to Gaz22)
>
> "I just don't want to 'leave it until im ready' and then find out I was ready years ago and then not be able to do it."
>
> I've just read some of your posts on your profile as you didn't indicate how many extreme finger cracks you've ticked so far. ... As such, the advice above about Lancashire Quarries will likely be very useful.
>
> One purpose of grades is to tell you when you are ready. So climb gradually harder stuff on lead with similar style until you start to fail at a particular grade then train in volume at and just above this grade(bouldering seconding or top-roping) to get better.
>
> "I just don't want to 'leave it until im ready' and then find out I was ready years ago and then not be able to do it."
>
> I've just read some of your posts on your profile as you didn't indicate how many extreme finger cracks you've ticked so far. ... As such, the advice above about Lancashire Quarries will likely be very useful.
>
> One purpose of grades is to tell you when you are ready. So climb gradually harder stuff on lead with similar style until you start to fail at a particular grade then train in volume at and just above this grade(bouldering seconding or top-roping) to get better.
Truly excellent advice! I think you (Gaz) have loads of time ahead of you and would repeat what earlier posters have said about waiting until you can achieve your aspirations in good style.
To help you, here's some routes in Wilton 1 or 3 which are, in parts, either steep or fingery or both:
Crooked Crack VS 4c
Central Route HVS 5a
Ann E1 5b
Paradox E2 5c
Grader E3 5c
Supercrack E3 5c
Max E3 5c
Loopy E4 6a
Master Spy Direct E4 6a
Adrenalin E4 6a
In the last five years I have either soloed, led, seconded or been hauled up all of them. I am 59 years old and have never been anything more than a competent climber. Take your time and enjoy the journey: the destination will be so much more satisfying if you do
In reply to Phill Mitch:
Ron Fawcett is bouldering french 7c/7c+ I read in his book over Christmas, and he's in his fifties or something, and Stevie Haston can clim 9a.
> (In reply to Gaz22)
> [...]
>
> I could give you some beta on the age thing. Don't start worrying about it for another 15 to 20 years. I think having kids will slow you down more than the passing of years!
> Even then, with a strong will you could still push hard.
> I am 50 this year, have been climbing nearly 20 years and I am, I would say climbing as good if not better than ever ( admitedly that's not brilliant but....)
> [...]
>
> I could give you some beta on the age thing. Don't start worrying about it for another 15 to 20 years. I think having kids will slow you down more than the passing of years!
> Even then, with a strong will you could still push hard.
> I am 50 this year, have been climbing nearly 20 years and I am, I would say climbing as good if not better than ever ( admitedly that's not brilliant but....)
Ron Fawcett is bouldering french 7c/7c+ I read in his book over Christmas, and he's in his fifties or something, and Stevie Haston can clim 9a.
In reply to GrahamD:
The are, it's still remarkable I think though. I think Rab Carrington has onsighted 8a, he's definately climbed an 8a at least.
I can remember my grandad saying ''There's no such thing as 'Can't do it', whatever it is, there's no such things as 'Can't do it'.''
He ment as a way of approaching something, rather than literally. It springs to mind when I think of older people climbing hard or doing well in other sports, and younger people talking about age taking it's toll.
It applies to myself for a lot of things which I don't do too, having written the above. It's time to think I can do instead.
Cheers
Tim
The are, it's still remarkable I think though. I think Rab Carrington has onsighted 8a, he's definately climbed an 8a at least.
I can remember my grandad saying ''There's no such thing as 'Can't do it', whatever it is, there's no such things as 'Can't do it'.''
He ment as a way of approaching something, rather than literally. It springs to mind when I think of older people climbing hard or doing well in other sports, and younger people talking about age taking it's toll.
It applies to myself for a lot of things which I don't do too, having written the above. It's time to think I can do instead.
Cheers
Tim
In reply to Timmd: Unfortunately the other thing which Big Ron, Stevie Haston and Rab Carrington have in common, apart from their age, is that they are all blessed with a sublime natural talent which 99% of climbers don't have, and, they have an inherent physical conditioning which is the result of decades of climbing at the highest levels - which yet again is something 99% of climbers don't have.
I'm the wrong side of 50, and I'll be buggered if I can get remotely close to the level I used to climb at.
Eventually, the body just won't do what the heart and mind want it too.
As for London Wall, most people fail because they spend to long trying to stitch it with gear. If you're going to succeed on it, you have to either move fast, or have fingers like skyhooks
I'm the wrong side of 50, and I'll be buggered if I can get remotely close to the level I used to climb at.
Eventually, the body just won't do what the heart and mind want it too.
As for London Wall, most people fail because they spend to long trying to stitch it with gear. If you're going to succeed on it, you have to either move fast, or have fingers like skyhooks
In reply to BPT@work: Excellent, thankyou for that. I by no means have the talent of Jerry Moffatt, but my job has given me a strong mind as well as strong arms(for my size :P) Im just hoping to enjoy the experience 'when' it happens.
In reply to Goucho:
I can appreciate that.
I think it'd be interesting to know how big a part genetics plays compared to having the time to train, I think i've read a few times in Stevie Haston's articles about french people in thier 70s climbing 8a.
> Eventually, the body just won't do what the heart and mind want it too.
I can appreciate that.
I think it'd be interesting to know how big a part genetics plays compared to having the time to train, I think i've read a few times in Stevie Haston's articles about french people in thier 70s climbing 8a.
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