In reply to doylo:
Great post by Rupert Davies at 8a.nu in answer to Jens' theory that Hubble and Action Direct were 9a because....
"the top old-school climbers spent much more time specializing and optimizing for just one insanely hard red-point project" and that
"Most modern top climbers of today, instead, travel around the world doing as many routes in different styles as possible."
Rupert wrote in reply:
"I think you do Ben Moon and other climbers from that period a massive disservice to suggest that the only reason they climbed hard was through being very specialised.
Hubble was done in 1990, the same year as Liquid Ambar, an 8c from Jerry Moffatt that is now thought to be 8c+, that Ben quickly repeated. Prior to doing these, Ben had established Agincourt and Maginot Line, 8cs in different styles in France. He was also placing highly in competitions. He had repeated, up to that date, all the hardest routes in france. Within the next few years he repeated Bronx and Super Plafond stating at the time that they were a grade easier than Hubble.
Jerry, who had just done Liquid Ambar in 1989/1990 was also arguably the worlds best all rounder, winning World Cups, and climbing hard trad routes as well as establishing the hardest sport routes. Jerry had travelled worldwide. He had flashed the hardest trad routes in America.
The other world leader at this time, Wolfgang Gullich, was also extensively travelled. He had established the hardest route in Australia (Punks - repeated by Jerry), soloed Seperate Reality, and went on to establish some of the hardest big wall free routes in Patagonia.
These were all climbers with a traditional climbing background that were, or had been, involved in almost every style of free climbing worldwide. That's not to say that they didn't train specifically for the hardest routes, but that is really no different to Sharma spending years on Realization/Biographie or FRFM."
Brilliant post Rupert.