In reply to puppythedog: So then, My review of the movement session with Johnny yesterday.
I only have positive things to say about the session.
We started off in the Bar because Johnny had had a crappy day getting to us, he began to explain what he thinks about the common problems people have with their climbing in relation to posture and not planning for the entire movement involved in any one move.
We progressed to a bouldering area in the centre where he explained and demonstrated what he means about 'shapes', stopping a fall before it happens, the right face to pull/replicate.
As had been suggested here I went in with an open mind, I didn't need one, he made sense and I' sure I understood what he was talking about.
I won't go into too much detail about what he explained because he needs to make a living and it would do a disservice to him to explain it badly.
Johnny talks about his understanding of how movement, posture, balance, forward planning, imagining and feedback that the body gives well.
There are no pseudo sciencey words used and it would be easy to say the terminology was abstract but it didn't seem too abstract to me.
From the outset (when I decided to shell out for doing this) I was aware it was a movement class and that's what I got. I have a better understanding about how to move to an extent but more importantly I feel I have learnt some concept which if I choose to apply them will help me.
In fact the realms of what could be possible for me have grown off of the back of the lesson. i managed a couple of moves which I would never have thought achievable (especially in a short space of time) with some practice and managed one move on my first attempt by trying Johnny's technique about understanding what would have to happen for my body to get from one position to another.
I would recommend this to anyone climbing at any grade if they could approach it with a relaxed attitude and knowing that they were not going in for a class where they would be taught 'Egyptians' or routines for fitness.
I know that Johnny read this thread yesterday (Chambers your comments have been highlighted as unpleasant trolling by many others, i'll had that you are not commenting on an abstract but a person and were you to talk to all people with such a lack of sensitivity I would wonder if yo could have any friends), if you're reading this again Johnny I enjoyed it, I would even do it again after six months or so, i have no desire to be sycophantic or hero-worship anyone but it was a good class.