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Looking to be at Stanage on Friday, first beginners climb advice, climbed before and led severe but that was many moons ago. So as a starter any recommends.
Thanks
Nick
Thanks
Nick
In reply to Deltona:
Heaven Crack is easy, can take as much gear as you can stuff in it, and a whole lot of fun. Think it gets V Diff.
Heaven Crack is easy, can take as much gear as you can stuff in it, and a whole lot of fun. Think it gets V Diff.
In reply to Deltona:
My first ever lead was at Stanage - Fairy Castle Crack.
Just about sums up my climbing really. Don't do that, like me you'll have to live with it
My first ever lead was at Stanage - Fairy Castle Crack.
Just about sums up my climbing really. Don't do that, like me you'll have to live with it
BH Traverse is a good, and safe, but has a bit of a rope drag problem on a single rope - you'll be fine if you think about it!
Leaning Buttress Crack is nice, and has nothing wrong with it that I can remember. Once warmed up on that, try Hollybush Crack.
Leaning Buttress Crack is nice, and has nothing wrong with it that I can remember. Once warmed up on that, try Hollybush Crack.
Oh and for God's sake don't be tempted to climb anything "easier" like a Diff. In fact, never climb a Diff.
In reply to Deltona: Flying buttress. Not direct.
In reply to Deltona:
I did my first lead there when I was 14 or 15 pictured here, no idea what route it was but found it a good one to start with, I then started 'bouldering' if anyone knows what routes these are, I'd love to know, my guide book doesn't cover them but my mates did (he lost his book that day)
http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss112/danrock101/n1207534823_164120_9501...
http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss112/danrock101/n1207534823_164116_8374...
Dan
I did my first lead there when I was 14 or 15 pictured here, no idea what route it was but found it a good one to start with, I then started 'bouldering' if anyone knows what routes these are, I'd love to know, my guide book doesn't cover them but my mates did (he lost his book that day)
http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss112/danrock101/n1207534823_164120_9501...
http://i567.photobucket.com/albums/ss112/danrock101/n1207534823_164116_8374...
Dan
Some great suggestions and a number of them are on my list to do we will see how we get on during the day. Really looking forward to visiting the Mecca, thanks for the replies
Nick
Nick
In reply to Roberttaylor: Flying Buttress is a polished horror, and probably harder than FB Direct...lol
In reply to danrock101: Second one is Capstone Chimney. Remember a long, long, long afternoon when my ex got stuck in there. She was a sturdy lass... she maybe still there... climb should probably be upgraded if she is... or filled in...
In reply to danrock101: First one is Pedestal Chimney - Diff
In reply to LovelyPhil:
Meant Pedestal Chimney.
> (In reply to danrock101) Second one is Capstone Chimney. Remember a long, long, long afternoon when my ex got stuck in there. She was a sturdy lass... she maybe still there... climb should probably be upgraded if she is... or filled in...
Meant Pedestal Chimney.
I got on flying buttress for a warmup on a moist day and REALLY struggled, very polished, it meanders quite a bit and had a committing move on slippery holds and I ended up with some nasty rope drag as I was using a single sport rope at the time
so maybe not the soft spot the grade suggests
so maybe not the soft spot the grade suggests
In reply to Deltona:
Leave Flying Buttress alone for now.
I do a lot of soloing on Stanage, and have cruised all the above except FB, a horrible polished slab, followed by a thrutchy squirming thrutch, a slightly pleasant though exposed rising traverse and a desperately exposed mantel finish.
Leave Flying Buttress alone for now.
I do a lot of soloing on Stanage, and have cruised all the above except FB, a horrible polished slab, followed by a thrutchy squirming thrutch, a slightly pleasant though exposed rising traverse and a desperately exposed mantel finish.
In reply to Fredt:
Flying butress has some delicate moments, I wouldn't say it was particularly polished, and an unavoidable hard move in the middle. You can protect it but I spent ages on it last summer and was climbing other Severes. Topping out is also a bit of a giggle (or frustrating if you don't have that kind of sense of humour) but again protectable and avoidable.
I found Kelly's Crack and Bent Crack at Stanage end enjoyable and not too difficult, (although the more experienced guys with me thought I was nuts for trying Bent Crack) and Hollybush Crack more of a challenge but highly enjoyable.
Flying butress has some delicate moments, I wouldn't say it was particularly polished, and an unavoidable hard move in the middle. You can protect it but I spent ages on it last summer and was climbing other Severes. Topping out is also a bit of a giggle (or frustrating if you don't have that kind of sense of humour) but again protectable and avoidable.
I found Kelly's Crack and Bent Crack at Stanage end enjoyable and not too difficult, (although the more experienced guys with me thought I was nuts for trying Bent Crack) and Hollybush Crack more of a challenge but highly enjoyable.
In reply to Deltona:
Bishop's Route; my first trad lead, made me realise there might be more to this trad marlarky than I first thought.
A severe but feels pretty safe with lots of comfortable positions to place gear.
Have a good one.
Bishop's Route; my first trad lead, made me realise there might be more to this trad marlarky than I first thought.
A severe but feels pretty safe with lots of comfortable positions to place gear.
Have a good one.
In reply to Deltona: Blimey - why is everyone recommending you chimney climbs? They may be fun to some but are horrendous for most. Get yourself up there, get your guidebook out and pick something with lots of stars. You won't go wrong and on a Friday in January, you will have the place to yourself! Oh - and Heaven Crack is V Diff, but it is very steep if you are not used to that sort of thing so take heed. There really are some dodgy suggestions on this thread.
In reply to Tru:
Another vote for Bishops route, nice route with a picnic ledge halfway up to recompose. But be aware you have to look far and wide for your second anchor at the top!!
My mate's second lead first being heaven crack.
Another vote for Bishops route, nice route with a picnic ledge halfway up to recompose. But be aware you have to look far and wide for your second anchor at the top!!
My mate's second lead first being heaven crack.
In reply to Deltona:
Lots of information here:
http://offwidth.uptosummit.com/guides.html
Nearly all the low grade climbs on Stanage are good. Some can be a bit thrutchy and the classics are all a bit polished and busy. I'd recommend looking for a few well protected one star routes that suit your needs then hit any free classic.
ON the right of the popular end Anatomy Physiology, Grotto Slab, Capstone Chimney (there are two I mean the one right of Grotto Slab), Mantelpiece Crack all fit the bill.
Lots of information here:
http://offwidth.uptosummit.com/guides.html
Nearly all the low grade climbs on Stanage are good. Some can be a bit thrutchy and the classics are all a bit polished and busy. I'd recommend looking for a few well protected one star routes that suit your needs then hit any free classic.
ON the right of the popular end Anatomy Physiology, Grotto Slab, Capstone Chimney (there are two I mean the one right of Grotto Slab), Mantelpiece Crack all fit the bill.
In reply to Deltona:
Another vote for Hollybush Crack, superb.
Bishops Route is good fun
I didn't enjoy Flying Buttress
Another vote for Hollybush Crack, superb.
Bishops Route is good fun
I didn't enjoy Flying Buttress
In reply to Deltona:
Echo Black Hawk Traverse
My first "real" climb with my Dad in the Peak. Brings back good memories.
Echo Black Hawk Traverse
My first "real" climb with my Dad in the Peak. Brings back good memories.
In reply to Deltona:
Definitely stay out of dirty, slimy green chimneys at this time of year!
Definitely stay out of dirty, slimy green chimneys at this time of year!
In reply to Deltona: Definitely second Heaven Crack - loved it!
In reply to cmaradcliffe: I reckon Heaven Crack is the best VD at Stanage but although it has big holds and protection it is very steep for the grade (as mentioned by someone above) so may not be the most suitable for a first lead.
In reply to Michael Hood:
I think very steep for the grade depends where you are comparing it to. Plenty of moves as steep on mountain Vdiffs or Cornwall Vdiffs.
To my mind Heaven crack is a perfect first lead because you will feel as though you have achieved something at the end of it.
I think very steep for the grade depends where you are comparing it to. Plenty of moves as steep on mountain Vdiffs or Cornwall Vdiffs.
To my mind Heaven crack is a perfect first lead because you will feel as though you have achieved something at the end of it.
In reply to Michael Hood:
Depends what kind of climber you are......brute force and ignorance is my preferred style, if you are more into balance and footwork it may be less to your liking. But at that grade it shouldn't matter too much.
Depends what kind of climber you are......brute force and ignorance is my preferred style, if you are more into balance and footwork it may be less to your liking. But at that grade it shouldn't matter too much.
In reply to Deltona:
Some of the classic chimneys are hilarious, if that's what you're after. I think it was Capstone that I particularly enjoyed too.
Flying Buttress Direct is horrible for an HVD - we ended up climbing it more or less in the dark (just one more route!) which just added to it. Really tricky crux move and the final mantel is... interesting...
Some of the classic chimneys are hilarious, if that's what you're after. I think it was Capstone that I particularly enjoyed too.
Flying Buttress Direct is horrible for an HVD - we ended up climbing it more or less in the dark (just one more route!) which just added to it. Really tricky crux move and the final mantel is... interesting...
In reply to jadias:
FBD is a wonderful climb, but it is a classic example of wall training not translating to out door, as my Mexican sports/plastic climbing friend found out last year >
FBD is a wonderful climb, but it is a classic example of wall training not translating to out door, as my Mexican sports/plastic climbing friend found out last year >
In reply to GrahamD:
Indeed, but on the other hand, if you have never or only seldom climbed on gritstone, you are might sh1t your pants half way up and even end up bailing onto gear (I have seen this happen a number of times) that may have been placed in a moment of blind panic panic as the blood flows out of the arms. I would not recommend this climb as an introduction to Stanage although I do concede that it is excellent!
> To my mind Heaven crack is a perfect first lead because you will feel as though you have achieved something at the end of it.
Indeed, but on the other hand, if you have never or only seldom climbed on gritstone, you are might sh1t your pants half way up and even end up bailing onto gear (I have seen this happen a number of times) that may have been placed in a moment of blind panic panic as the blood flows out of the arms. I would not recommend this climb as an introduction to Stanage although I do concede that it is excellent!
In reply to jadias:
And I thought it was a sandbag at HVS!
> (In reply to Deltona)
>
>
>
> Flying Buttress Direct is horrible for an HVD
> Flying Buttress Direct is horrible for an HVD
And I thought it was a sandbag at HVS!
In reply to thedatastream:
And another. I'd avoid Heaven Crack as a first climb; keep it for when you can properly appreciate it, once you've become accustomed to the place. And there'd be absolutely nothing wrong with doing Grotto Slab as a first route either. Sure it may be easy and many might downclimb it during an evening's soloing, but that doesn't make it any less good as an easy grade getting-to-know-you route.
T.
> Another vote for Hollybush Crack, superb.
And another. I'd avoid Heaven Crack as a first climb; keep it for when you can properly appreciate it, once you've become accustomed to the place. And there'd be absolutely nothing wrong with doing Grotto Slab as a first route either. Sure it may be easy and many might downclimb it during an evening's soloing, but that doesn't make it any less good as an easy grade getting-to-know-you route.
T.
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Haha, whoops! If only that was a valid excuse!
Of course I meant regular old Flying Buttress!
Haha, whoops! If only that was a valid excuse!
Of course I meant regular old Flying Buttress!
In reply to Pursued by a bear:
Grotto Slab (including the finishing 'pitch') is really one of the best routes around for complete novices. Especially if it's done as two pitches.
Heaven Crack is a gem, but should be left until you can do it without 'filling it with gear', as someone suggested above. That is just such an appalling approach to climbing. The whole art of protecting classic gritstone routes, certainly below E1, involves placing gear where it most matters, and will be most effective, without destroying the 'flow' of the climb. Typically that might be about 5 runners at most (and possibly two close together below the crux). A lot of gritstone routes are perfectly safe with just two or three runners in the right place.
Grotto Slab (including the finishing 'pitch') is really one of the best routes around for complete novices. Especially if it's done as two pitches.
Heaven Crack is a gem, but should be left until you can do it without 'filling it with gear', as someone suggested above. That is just such an appalling approach to climbing. The whole art of protecting classic gritstone routes, certainly below E1, involves placing gear where it most matters, and will be most effective, without destroying the 'flow' of the climb. Typically that might be about 5 runners at most (and possibly two close together below the crux). A lot of gritstone routes are perfectly safe with just two or three runners in the right place.
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Well finally got to Stanage, earlier planned visits got scrubbed.
Great day, weather was fantastic in the afternoon with the sun out seriously breezy on top.
Ended up doing Mississippi Chimney (greasy as f+ck), Heaven Crack, Hollybush Crack and finished with The Flying Buttress. Great day a lot learned seconding, getting the bloody gear out was at times a bitch. No fingerprints left, no falls. Just a great bloody day. Hopefully back next week weather and time permitting.
Well finally got to Stanage, earlier planned visits got scrubbed.
Great day, weather was fantastic in the afternoon with the sun out seriously breezy on top.
Ended up doing Mississippi Chimney (greasy as f+ck), Heaven Crack, Hollybush Crack and finished with The Flying Buttress. Great day a lot learned seconding, getting the bloody gear out was at times a bitch. No fingerprints left, no falls. Just a great bloody day. Hopefully back next week weather and time permitting.
In reply to Deltona:
Well done. Even for such a warm sunny day in February its pretty hard-core climbing on Stanage in any breeze. VDs in such conditions are worth at least Severe
Well done. Even for such a warm sunny day in February its pretty hard-core climbing on Stanage in any breeze. VDs in such conditions are worth at least Severe
In reply to Deltona:
Heaven Crack, Hollybush Crack and Flying Buttress are absolutely brilliant routes. I think I might be responsible for alot of the polish on those footholds
What's next? Black Hawk Traverse Left is another quality VDiff, with a interesting stride left, and Black Hawk Chimney is a great, steep Severe with solid gear all the way (take lots of slings).
There's a some nice stuff at the other end too, Prospero's Climb sticks in my mind as an under-rated gem, and Ariel/Pinion if you are feeling a bit bolder. Plenty to do on Crow Chin on your way over too.
Then you've got a host of superb HS and soft VS routes, where Stanage is at it's best in my opinion. Have fun
Heaven Crack, Hollybush Crack and Flying Buttress are absolutely brilliant routes. I think I might be responsible for alot of the polish on those footholds
What's next? Black Hawk Traverse Left is another quality VDiff, with a interesting stride left, and Black Hawk Chimney is a great, steep Severe with solid gear all the way (take lots of slings).
There's a some nice stuff at the other end too, Prospero's Climb sticks in my mind as an under-rated gem, and Ariel/Pinion if you are feeling a bit bolder. Plenty to do on Crow Chin on your way over too.
Then you've got a host of superb HS and soft VS routes, where Stanage is at it's best in my opinion. Have fun
In reply to Deltona:
Another vote for Hollybush Crack and Bishop's Route. Both top quality climbs. Heaven Crack is a great little route and lovely climbing, but does seem to be over just that little bit too quickly. If you do the other 2 first and are going well, pop along and do it, you'll enjoy it, it's just a shame it's not a few metres longer.
Another vote for Hollybush Crack and Bishop's Route. Both top quality climbs. Heaven Crack is a great little route and lovely climbing, but does seem to be over just that little bit too quickly. If you do the other 2 first and are going well, pop along and do it, you'll enjoy it, it's just a shame it's not a few metres longer.
In reply to teflonpete:
Heaven Crack is great but I had tired arms and trying to finish the climb was basically a pull up and a flop over the top hopefully going again next week if the weather is kind
Heaven Crack is great but I had tired arms and trying to finish the climb was basically a pull up and a flop over the top hopefully going again next week if the weather is kind
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