/ Technical Approach Shoe

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Nath93 - on 25 Jan 2012
Anyone have any advice about which approach shoes would be suitable for a long moderate climb ? I'm hoping to do the Dubh Ridge up on Skye in June and was wondering whether it would be worth my time getting a pair of decent approach shoes which would be suitable or would I just be better sticking to a pair of stiff mountaineering boots ?
Exile - on 25 Jan 2012
In reply to Nath93:

Either will do. This may sound funny but think about if you tend towards smearing or edging when climbing in rock shoes. When I did the greater cullin traverse with a friend he swore by his scarpa approach shoes, (but he is quite a smeary rock climber,) and I swore by my original la sportive trangos, (a light weight alpine climbing boot,) because you can edge in them more effectivly.

Both these options were reasonably light though, which I think on sky is the key as you will spend most of your time walking. If you're mountaineering boots are 'sturdy' B2 or B3 I'd go with approach shoes, or even fell runnning shoes and comfy rock boots for the route. (I haven't yet done the Duhb Ridge so I fully expect somebody to come along and shoot this last suggestion down in flames, but I've done this in the Alps.)
Nath93 - on 25 Jan 2012
In reply to Exile: Thanks for that ! I'm veering towards a pair of stiff B1 boots but not ruling out carrying a pair of rock boots aswell !
In reply to Nath93: You won't need rock shoes for the Dubhs Ridge Nath, pretty much any walking boot or decent 'approach' or fell shoe will do. It's smeary climbing and great friction.
Nath93 - on 25 Jan 2012
In reply to Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com: Ah, Cheers for that Dan. Will just go with my regular hill walking boots then !
Solaris - on 25 Jan 2012
In reply to Nath93:
I'd experiment on a few scrambles and easy climbs in a variety of conditions before going so as to see what suits you best. And bear in mind that the descent takes in some pretty gnarly and possibly wet terrain.
Nath93 - on 25 Jan 2012
In reply to Solaris: Yeah, I'll be having time on other rock before I go, namely the Ledge Route, Aonach Eagach and some other scrambly bits with a little indoor and trad climbing here and there so will get a chance to try out different stuff and see what works. Cheers !
Nath93 - on 25 Jan 2012
In reply to Nath93: Think I'm veering towards getting a pair of Berghause Kibos if they agree with my feet ! Think they offer quite alot for what there worth and will do me on alot of rock and snow !
goldmember - on 25 Jan 2012
In reply to Nath93: have a pair of new mantas (tired on twice) for sale if your interested.
Nath93 - on 25 Jan 2012
In reply to goldmember: I'm currently skint, but thanks for the offer !
Solaris - on 25 Jan 2012
In reply to Nath93:

Sounds good. Don't forget to get a feel for moving on slabs.
Nath93 - on 26 Jan 2012
In reply to Solaris: Yeah, anywhere you would recommend that is decent prep for it ? It's not so much my technical ability that lacks, more like my lack of experience to exposure.
Exile - on 26 Jan 2012
In reply to Nath93:

Tower Ridge if the winter snow strips quickly in the spring, (it can easily still have a reasonable amount of snow on it in late may / Early June.)
neil9216 - on 26 Jan 2012
In reply to Nath93:
If you are a climber, i would personally recommend either of these three
Shoes from la sportiva.
Tango light low approach shoe(as the name suggests built on the same model as their tango boot)
These are what I used to use.very good reasonably priced and comfortable for a long walk in.used them on the in pin, curved ridge, the aonach eagagh.
Also La sportiva Boulder x.much the same as above but will suit some one with a narrower foot.( my dad uses these)
And I have just bought a pair of La Sportiva Ghanda guide.
These really are the dogs nuts,
They are a hybrid between an approach shoe and a climbing shoe.and are the missing link. Between shoe and boot.
As yet I have not worn them out as only got them from Santa.however from wearing them around town and to the wall and stuff.they are extremely comfortable,they are perfect for edging as they have a stiffened sole and are made using sticky rubber on the sole and rand.so grip wise they are outstanding.
You can wear them with the footbed to walk in and then remove it to climb to get a better fit.
I have worn boots on the the cuillin in summer personally I found them too clumpy i prefer to feel the rock through my feet,so I wear trainers.
I understand everyone is different,so it will be a personal decision.
I hope this helps
jadias - on 26 Jan 2012
In reply to neil9216:

I thought with the Gandas you're supposed to use them without the footbed for the approach, then put it in to reduce the volume and make them more snug and responsive on rock?

Mine will get here tomorrow - I hope they fit!
Nath93 - on 26 Jan 2012
In reply to Nath93: Thanks for the replies lads ! Been looking at a few options, really like the look of alot of the La Sportiva range but after having a pair of continental Asolos I'm wary of buying boots in the fear that they'll be too narrow for my medium width feet !

Anyone have any comments on the Trango Evo S or the Trango Guide GTX ? Or any La Sportiva models in particular ? I'm looking for something that will do me after Skye aswell which will mainly be in other British Mountain enviroments.
In reply to Nath93: Trango S EVO are lovely and light, well made and generally ideal for what you're after, but with their fairly marked asymmetry I personally find them too narrow at the toe to be ideal with my medium-wide feet. Try them on for a good while in the shop...
trivett - on 26 Jan 2012
In reply to Nath93:

I have the trango s evo boots, not used them a lot in anger yet (only had them a few weeks) but they are incredibly comfortable. I have slightly wide feet and they fit fine. Excellent quality build as you would expect and seem to fit my grivel airtech crampons well enough, though wouldn't say they'd make an excellent winter climbing boot....

A million billion times better than my old scarpa mantas!
In reply to Nath93: Since you asked about other Sportiva models, Ganda guides are awesome too, for summer scrambling and climbing... But a bit specialised if you're also going to be doing lots of UK walking in them, since they're useless in bogs and not great for wet grass.
In reply to Nath93: Of the many and varied shoes I've tried Inov8 Griproc 325s would tend to be my personal non-boot choice for scrambles, easy climbs and general UK hillwalking. Cross between a fell shoe and a rock shoe, so good on wet ground and quick drying plus they're great on the rock. But you seem to be more keen on proper boots, and I don't blame you; Trango S Evos worth a go as said, or Garmont Tower Lites are nice if you want something a bit more walk-oriented but still scrambly. Or, or... Or do what I usually do for scrambling and just wear whatever non-flash walking boot you like, providing it's got a decent edgey sole. OK I'm even boring myself now. Imelda Marcos of the outdoor world, me.
Nath93 - on 26 Jan 2012
In reply to Nath93: Again, thanks for all your help folks ! I'll need to travel a wee bit to try and find the La Sportiva models as alot of the local retailers dont stock them ! Like the look of the Mammut boots but tried a pair of Mt Cliffs on and found they were either too big length wise or too narrow at the ball of my foot !

Believe me Dan, If my Asolo Fugitives weren't so narrow it would be them that would be going to Skye with me !
Solaris - on 26 Jan 2012
In reply to Nath93:

There's nowhere quite like Skye - either for the rock or the range of conditions, so I'd suggest going up there with an open mind and gaining experience on easier scrambles. The new Skye scrambles guide is superb.

As to boots/shoes - I'd be going for footwear that gives me maximum flexibility, something that I could walk, scramble, and attach a pair of crampons to. There's a reason why approach shoes have only existed for the last 10-15 years: they aren't strictly necessary for any form of mountain activity whereas boots and rock shoes are!
Nath93 - on 27 Jan 2012
In reply to Solaris: Cheers ! Nothings set in stone quite yet, will see what happens when we get there. But the Dubh is very high on the agenda, if weather allows !

I've been looking at the Scarpa Cristallo as a good allrounder and would do me after aswell !

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