UKC

Nick Bullock gives a flavour of this year's BMC International Meet in Scotland - with some hard ascents thrown in for good measure...

"I was twisting, pivoting on a smear and a ripple. Flashing a glance, I looked at the air that I would no-doubt be tasting and it looked dirty. Holding the barn door, hyperventilating, I replaced the right pick, the right foot, leaned and matched both picks on the ripple...."

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4399

In reply to UKC Articles:

Quality effort Nick.

In reply to UKC Articles: That was a class read, fine work Mr. Bullock.

In reply to UKC Articles: Cracking article Nick. More info from Bayard Russel's blog here: http://www.whitemountainrockandice.com/cathedralstyle/

In reply to UKC Articles: Nice one.

"I could see MacInnis and Bonnington and Patey just across the way in Raven's Gully"

And indeed Chouinard on the direct finish. Russell isn't the first American to leave his mark on that part of the mountain, which actually has a nice circularity to him being part of the Guerdon repeat team.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Brilliant article - a great read!

In reply to UKC Articles: Bayard's blog is worth a look for his perspective too- http://www.whitemountainrockandice.com/2012/01/30/the-scottish-boogie/

In reply:

Overview report also on the BMC site:

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/article.aspx?id=5541

In reply to UKC Articles:

Really enjoyed that, cheers.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Where's the video of Nick going to be used? Or will it be internetted?

In reply to The Green Giant: James Dunn filmed it for the BMC so you might want to check their site at a later date.

In reply to UKC Articles:
The photo of Guerdon Grooves took me back to an attempt with Al Rouse just before Cubbies ascent.
Al had Guerdon on his hit list & we went up one afternoon, late as usual.
I remember Al lead the first pitch with quite a hard move up & right over an overhang. He then took a stance. I carried on up the second pitch which I found hard & unprotected. Al was worried that I,d hit him if I fell off so I didn,t. Dusk eventually overtook us as usual, as it took me ages on the second pitch because I found the climbing quite hard. From high up I placed some gear and we retreated.
We meant to go back, but the great storm arrived the next day and after that Cubbie arrived, so we weren,t going back up there for a second ascent At that time I think that was getting on as hard as I,d climbed on mixed ground

Great writing Nick! Very entertaining.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Great article Nick, I really enjoyed it.

And I mean that!

Your writings definitely come on a bit!