In reply to UKC Gear:
Sounds like a very interesting book
Was slightly suprised by this para in the review
"The second man to climb all fourteen 8,000ers, his list, in contrast to Reinhold Messner's, comprised first ascents of one form or another bar Lhotse, where he died having almost completed the first ascent of the stupendous south face"
Which is possibly a bit harsh on Messner, who did do a few new routes, but also very significant firsts in terms of style (alpine, oxygen-free, solo, two-at-once). The contrast is surely with the subsequent 8000m completists - not that I'm going to suggest that it is easy in any way !!!