UKC

Common Climbing Injuries

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 chris687 02 Mar 2012
Hi everyone,
I have a degree in Sport and Exercise Sciences and am a sports therapist (still in training) and am trying to hone in on some of the more common injuries that people have suffered from through climbing, mountaineering and mountain biking. I intend to dedicate a lot of time researching these injuries in order to find the best interventions for them. Any information you give will be much appreciated. Who knows, it may lead to your eventual recovery!

What is your most persistent injury?
 Yanis Nayu 02 Mar 2012
In reply to chris687: Climbing attracts finger pulley injuries and elbow tendonitis/tendonosis.

I suggest you have a look at Dave MacLeod's website.
 Milesy 02 Mar 2012
Rotator cuff injury. Been nursing it better since last summer.
 Cake 02 Mar 2012
In reply to Milesy:
Most climbers I know have done something to their rotator cuff at some point. Mine's not right after 1.5 years
luke obrien 02 Mar 2012
In reply to chris687: Finger injuries (pullies), tendinitis (elbow) and rotator cuff seem to be mentioned most.
 n-stacey 02 Mar 2012
In reply to chris687: feckin ear ache!!!!!
 Dark Peak Paul 02 Mar 2012
In reply to chris687:

'Golfers Elbow' for me and 'Tennis Elbow' for one of my climbing friends. In my case not very debilitating when climbing but a bit of a pain the rest of the time
 Trangia 02 Mar 2012
In reply to chris687:

Trigger thumb
 n-stacey 02 Mar 2012
In reply to chris687: If not strapped/taped my wrists do a twangy thing and give out a sharp pain.
 pec 02 Mar 2012
In reply to chris687: Probably not the sort of injury you're interested in but its worth mentioning that perhaps one of the most common (and most serious) is broken ankles.
I know more climbers who've broken ankles than all other injuries put together!
 Dean177 02 Mar 2012
In reply to chris687:
I have had both a finger pulley injury and elbow problems.
I have two friends who are currently unable to climb (and havent for months) one has elbow tendonitis, the other a severe problem wih his fingers.
Yet anouther friend currently has a finger he cant fully bend.
 Phill Mitch 02 Mar 2012
In reply to chris687: Over a period of nearly 20 years I have suffered mainly elbow problems, but have had finger pulley trouble and am suffering shoulder problems right now. Trying too hard for too long!
 alasdair19 03 Mar 2012
In reply to chris687: I have persistent flexor unit strain in My ring fingers. From open handed 2 finger pockets. I would have a chat with John ostravokis of "the clinic" Sheffield he probably sees more climbing injuries than most. Dave macleod is writing a book on the subject at the moment. Also check out UK bouldering
 Landy_Dom 03 Mar 2012
In reply to chris687:

Tennis elbow and repeated twisted ankles (both bad landings and knobbly footpaths in and out of crags carrying heavy gear!)
 stoo2k 03 Mar 2012
In reply to chris687:

I've been struck down with Achillies Tendonitis, my right heel has been agony for the last two weeks when wearing shoes! It seems to be on the mend now, but I made the mistake of cramming my feet back into climbing shoes on Tuesday which felt okay for a while, but got sore real quick!

Ice, rest, exercise, and Deep Relief are doing the job in the meantime, but I'm itching to get out again (especially with a week off coming up!!) Less tight shoes would probably have avoided the matter all together though! Or maybe stopping climbing when I felt it getting sore... Ooops...
 Darrengold 04 Mar 2012
In reply to chris687: I'm currently having physio for Golfer's Elbow (opposite side to Tennis elbow - Where people always try to correct me by saying "you mean tennis elbow don't you?") I've had it for 8 months or so and it flares up when climbing. Other than that the usual finger pain and ankle injuries if I deck!!
 MonkeyPuzzle 04 Mar 2012
In reply to chris687:

Pride.
OP chris687 04 Mar 2012
In reply to chris687:

Cheers everyone, these are all pretty much as predicted, finger pulleys and elbows. I hadn't expected achilles tendonitis but was expecting to hear of maybe a few ruptured biceps, any takers?

Currently suffering with ankle, shoulder and pride injuries from a recent fall myself.
 henwardian 05 Mar 2012
In reply to chris687: At least 50% of injuries anyone within my hearing has ever complained about are finger/pulley related. There are loads of others of course, but that is the biggie.
 chrisprescott 05 Mar 2012
In reply to chris687: Shoulders for me. Been going on for 2 years and still don't have a proper diagnosis, latest suggestion is its something to do with my thoracic outlet, waiting for an MRI at the moment
 Dave80 05 Mar 2012
In reply to chris687: Climbing I've done my rotator cuff, dislocated knee (although had an old knee injury from before I took up climbing and lost count how often I've either dislocated or twisted it) and I did something to my heel after a heavy landing while bouldering which may have been some sort of deep bruising that took weeks for it to not be tender to touch or put weight through. Hill walking I've also suffered bad Achilles tendonitus and there's been plenty ankle sprains at mountaineering club ceilidhs!
 karen2 06 Mar 2012
In reply to chris687:

Not that it is super common but * hitting the ground* injuries. I have a persistent neck and lower back injury from a relatively low fall.

Dislocated finger / suplex

Big toe injury (for new indoor climbers who may be slightly too enthusiastic)

Elbow, hip and wrist tendonitis

Rotator Cuff
 Matt Schwarz 06 Mar 2012
In reply to chris687: broken tibia where it joins the ankle joint.

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