UKC

Trad Rack - Up to the job??

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 Danielg 22 Mar 2012
1-10 wild country wires
1-11 dmm wires
7-11 dmm off sets
1-4 dmm torque nuts
3,4,5 dmm dragon cams
3 10cm camp quickdraws
5 12cm dmm proqire quickdraws
4 120cm slings
2 60cm slings
5 helium snap gates
2 xenon snap gates
2 simond solid gates
3 hms
3 alu crabs
Nut tool
5 meters of kermantle


Anything I've missed
 Niall 22 Mar 2012
In reply to Danielg:

A ladder. You'll be doing well to get off the ground at all wearing that lot
 Dave 88 22 Mar 2012
In reply to Danielg:

For the stuff recommended on your other thread (and way more climbs) that's plenty. Too much in fact but take it anyway. If you've top roped 4c fine, a bit of extra weight won't cause you to fail, losing your head because you can't get any gear in really might. Someone will be along soon to say that's a bad habit to get into (which it is) but you can worry abiut that after you've laced your your first lead.
OP Danielg 22 Mar 2012
In reply to Niall:

Obviously not all on my harness.

Have climbed fully racked plenty of times though, obviously have to do it sooner or later, so practice makes perfect I suppose.
 Madden 22 Mar 2012
In reply to Danielg: To be honest, i would probably have more quick draws and less krabs, but then my rack's got sport climbing in mind as well... obviously without the trad gear. And maybe a size 1 cam as well? because a 1, 3 and 5 will pretty much cover most sizes of crack. Not All, clearly, but most. The size 1 cam is all i would suggest. And being selective when choosing what to take up the route. Unless you're going for hyper-gravity training that is.
 gd303uk 22 Mar 2012
In reply to Danielg: your just showing off
nice rack,
have you got a harness to hang it all off
OP Danielg 22 Mar 2012
In reply to gd303uk:

Haha, I am a self confessed gear head I must admit.

Luckily I've been able to get everything over a short period of time. I have worked my arse off though. Haha.

I have a harness, could do with more gear loops though!
 Madden 22 Mar 2012
In reply to Danielg:
> could do with more gear loops though!

Invest in a sling for your gear? one of the fancy pants ones with a shoulder pad thingy?
OP Danielg 22 Mar 2012
In reply to Madden:

Please don't encourage me! Haha
 Dave 88 23 Mar 2012
In reply to Danielg:

Have a look at the DMM Renegade when you're upgrading. That's a whole other thread though...
 Wee Davie 23 Mar 2012
In reply to Danielg:


It's the '5m of kernmantel' that really gives it away as a troll.
OP Danielg 23 Mar 2012
In reply to Wee Davie:

Ok then, 5m of accessorie cord 6mm.

From what I've read and seen, this type of cord is called kermantle.

Everybody is a troll in your eyes nowadays
 CurlyStevo 23 Mar 2012
In reply to Danielg: depends on rock and grade but personally three cams wouldn't be enough for me, and also I think you can thin down the nuts above dmm size 6. For grit I carry about 2sets of nuts, small nuts I carry one of, two size 3s for size ,4,5,6 I carry 3 of but the third set are super lights, and size 10 its not always necessary to carry two of.

For some rock types a couple of micro nuts would be handy. In general you won't need more of these until yr leading e1.

Yr quickdraws are too short I would carry at most 2 less than 20cm all the rest between 20 and 30. Also ever heard of a sling draw I carry four of these.
In reply to Danielg: In general, you've more than sufficient gear to climb pretty most things in the UK up to E1. Make up a couple of prusik loops before doing any multi-pitch.

Your ratio of wires (26) to quickdraws (8) is a bit off. You either have too many wires or not enough quickdraws depending on what you want to climb. For 90% of UK routes, you'll probably have far too many wires. However on the bigger routes, especially on limestone, 8 quickdraws is on the low side.

For most routes, it'd therefore probably make sense to leave behind a few larger wires such as Rocks 8-10, perhaps more. For classic limestone routes you would probably want to at least convert your 60cm slings into another two extenders.

It is also not clear which krabs you are using to rack your wires, Torque Nuts and Cams on. If these krabs are among those listed, then for multi-pitch you are well short on wire/snapgate krabs although you look well supplied with screwgates. If you haven't listed your racking krabs, then you're well supplied all round.
 CurlyStevo 23 Mar 2012
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:
> (In reply to Danielg) In general, you've more than sufficient gear to climb pretty most things in the UK up to E1. Make up a couple of prusik loops before doing any multi-pitch.
>
> Your ratio of wires (26) to quickdraws (8) is a bit off. You either have too many wires or not enough quickdraws depending on what you want to climb. For 90% of UK routes, you'll probably have far too many wires. However on the bigger routes, especially on limestone, 8 quickdraws is on the low side.
>
> For most routes, it'd therefore probably make sense to leave behind a few larger wires such as Rocks 8-10, perhaps more. For classic limestone routes you would probably want to at least convert your 60cm slings into another two extenders.
>
> It is also not clear which krabs you are using to rack your wires, Torque Nuts and Cams on. If these krabs are among those listed, then for multi-pitch you are well short on wire/snapgate krabs although you look well supplied with screwgates. If you haven't listed your racking krabs, then you're well supplied all round.

I can think of a lot of routes at vs where 3 largish cams would leave you seriously under protected.

I carry up to 13 quickdraws/slingdraws if I am grade pushing long pitches (and I've still run out afterall on a 40 meter pitch that's one runner every 3 meters and I extend cams normally). That said with dragons and torques having longer slings that wouldn't be necessary.
 Captain Gear 23 Mar 2012
In reply to CurlyStevo:
> (In reply to The Ex-Engineer)

>
> I carry up to 13 quickdraws

You're doomed mate... It's all about 12 or 14!
needvert 23 Mar 2012
In reply to Danielg:

I placed a few brass nuts (DMM IMPs and brass offsets) today.

They're so small they weigh next to nothing.
 mattrm 23 Mar 2012
In reply to Danielg:

To many nuts and not enough quickdraws IMO. I also use Torque Nuts and 4CUs, but still carry 12 quickdraws/slingdraws.
In reply to CurlyStevo:
> I can think of a lot of routes at vs where 3 largish cams would leave you seriously under protected.

I can't immediately think of any routes under E1 that used to be graded harder before cams were invented or where not having small cams would significantly effect the grade. Equally, I'm struggling to think of any specific routes where not having smaller cams introduces a risk of decking out from hardish moves that would not be there with them.

I am sure there are probably a few of routes where small cams improve the safety of the belay but the only ones I can currently think of are harder than E1.
 HenryC 23 Mar 2012
In reply to Danielg:

Just go out and climb with it and you'll soon work it out. Start easy and short and lace your climbs that way you'll learn how to place it all and how you want it racked. As you gain experience you will see what you place and what you don't dependant on rock type.

One final tip, if you are starting easy leave the cams on the ground and learn to place the nuts effectively. Save cams 'for best' when you are starting out as they are easily placeable when pumped on harder climbs and have a wider range for panic situations.
OP Danielg 23 Mar 2012
In reply to HenryC:

Excellent advice mate.
 nbrowne 26 Mar 2012
In reply to Danielg:
The only thing I would suggect to add to this would be to buy a few more 60cm slings and make some extendable sling draws to prevent rope drag. Being able to extend you gear will result in less faff with rope drag.

P.S: Offsets are the shit - such amazing gear! Fits where normal nuts won't. So good!
OP Danielg 26 Mar 2012
In reply to nbrowne:

I've just ordered some longer pro wire qd's. 3 x 18cm and 2 x 25cm. I use the 2 60cm slings as sling draws and 2 of the 120cm as sling draws.

Used my offsets on two protection placements on my first lead sunday, they were that good, my second couldn't get them out. Had to get back myself, wasn't to hard as I knew how they went in. The particular cracks wouldn't take anything as easy as an offset.
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