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3 Best Classic Severes in the Lake District?

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 GBurton 02 Apr 2012
I've climbed a few classic mountain routes in the Lakes over the years and I've flicked through the usual glossy coffee table climbing books so I've got some ideas but, given a full weekend and the run of the UK's finest National Park, which 3 Severes that best epitomise Lakeland climbing should I have my sights on? Your considered responses would be gratefully received!
 CurlyStevo 02 Apr 2012
In reply to GBurton:
Best I've done is Troutdale Pinnacle, obvious choice but damned good!
 wilkie14c 02 Apr 2012
In reply to GBurton:
There are so many but Troudale Pinnacle has got to be very near the top!
 Bulls Crack 02 Apr 2012
In reply to GBurton:

Jones' direct from the Lords'Rake defines classical. Memorable climbing, named features and a tangible sense of history combine to give an unforgettable experinece on an atmospheric cliff!
 Kelcat 02 Apr 2012
In reply to GBurton: I did Bracket & Slab last week & thought it was superb all the way.
 Tall Clare 02 Apr 2012
In reply to GBurton:

Original Route on Raven Crag Langdale is a great route, to my mind.
 wilkie14c 02 Apr 2012
In reply to Kelcat:
> (In reply to GBurton) I did Bracket & Slab last week & thought it was superb all the way.

I've took many noobies up B&S, It gives them a big mountain crag feel, easy to get to, great belays, short safe pitches and a varaity of climbing styles on each pitch. The very last pitch up the rib/arete is quite superb! Yea, B&S has to go in
Removed User 02 Apr 2012
In reply to GBurton:

Arete, Chimney and Crack on Dow Crag is a long and variety filled adventure.
 Greenbanks 02 Apr 2012
In reply to GBurton:

Bridge's Route (Esk)
Murray's Route (Dow)
Jones's Direct (Scafell)

3 Severes in wild places to blow the cobwebs away. each one will knock TP into a cocked hat.
 Tall Clare 02 Apr 2012
In reply to Greenbanks:

Murray's Route - good call. The pitch involving the traverse is particularly good, if memory serves correct.
In reply to Tall Clare:

Tophet Wall would be another worthy contender.

ALC
 Skyfall 02 Apr 2012
In reply to GBurton:

Are you up for HS? Which Tophet Wall is incidentally...

Other than that, I'd also recommend Troutdale Pin. If you have time, tick Little Chamonix - a V Diff at Shepherds on the way back - as well if you've not done it yet.

Also agree with B&S at Gimmer as already mentioned. Seem to recall there is an easier variant right hand chimney finish, as opposed to the thrutchy chimney on the left, which is more in keeping with Severe.

At that grade you could also have a lot of fun at Swindale in the Eastern Fells - Kennel Wall is an absolute classic (done in one or two pitches) with the Fang next door as an exciting and superb HS next door if you are going well.
 Ann S 02 Apr 2012
In reply to JonC:

Got to do the Fang this year-been looking at it since it was a milk tooth.
 B_Mark_W 03 Apr 2012
In reply to GBurton:
I did troutdale pinnacle and little chamonix in a day last week and they were both fantastic must do climbs which are surprisingly varied. Tophet wall is also great fun and not too difficult.
 barney800 03 Apr 2012
In reply to GBurton: Oxford and Cambridge Direct Route is well worth the hike up Grey Crag, especially if combined with Suaviter. One of the most enjoyable days out I've had in the Lakes, that.
 Skyfall 03 Apr 2012
In reply to barney800:
> Oxford and Cambridge Direct Route is well worth the hike up Grey Crag, especially if combined with Suaviter.

How could I forget. Link ups galore on amazing rock. With a top out to finish.

And get inspired to do Dexter Wall (VS) there as well.

 Skyfall 03 Apr 2012
In reply to Ann S:

Took me a couple of visits to Swindale to summon up the courage to get on The Fang. Well worth it. The crux is the opening section (rising traverse). Just have to hold your nerve for the rest, which is easy if bold'ish.
 Alan Bates 03 Apr 2012
In reply to GBurton:
In Langdale I'd do Slabs Route 1, Whyte Ghyll
Agree with Grey Crags: combination of Suaviter and Oxford & Cambridge Direct.
Kennel Wall is great, and if the Fang a bit tough, go along to Truss Buttress for a nice VDiff (check bird restrictions)

On Dow, in my opinion the climbing on Arete, Chimney and Crack is way better than Murray's
 Rog Wilko 03 Apr 2012
In reply to GBurton: I think you need to take into account not just the climbing but the venue and the history. So you must go to the big crags for routes which were some sort of landmark of their time. So Tophet Wall is probably the first choice, then Jones's Route on Scafell and perhaps Murray's Route on Dow. This list, of course, doesn't include anything on the best crag in the Lakes, so maybe I'd drop Murray's in favour of B&S (though I think that the combination of Asterisk and D Route is better if shorter and technically not within the OPs parameters)
 Skyfall 03 Apr 2012
In reply to Alan Bates:

> In Langdale I'd do Slabs Route 1, Whyte Ghyll

Really? I know these things are a matter of taste but I found that section of the Ghyll to be very odd climbing with insecure feeling belays. I'd say stuff like Centipede and Evening Wall at Severe and Revelation at a stiff'ish HS on Raven were much more enjoyable (even if they are more 'roadside').

> Kennel Wall is great, and if the Fang a bit tough, go along to Truss Buttress for a nice VDiff (check bird restrictions)

Indeed Truss Buttress and Sam (stiff Severe) around the corner are v goood. Scabby Horse just up the hill from Sam is a straightforward VS with a very well protected and v definite crux - a good contender for first VS maybe... Much better than the guidebook write-up suggests.
 Skyfall 03 Apr 2012
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Yes, we're heading off track with all this minor crag stuff

Mind you, I'm not sure the OP said he was up for HS even.
 Alan Bates 03 Apr 2012
In reply to JonC:

> Alan Bates - In Langdale I'd do Slabs Route 1, Whyte Ghyll

> Really? I know these things are a matter of taste but I found that section of the Ghyll to be very odd climbing with insecure feeling belays. I'd say stuff like Centipede and Evening Wall at Severe and Revelation at a stiff'ish HS on Raven were much more enjoyable (even if they are more 'roadside').

A matter of taste indeed, which at least means we don't all end up on the same routes. Done in two pitches(rather than the guidebook 4) I think Slabs Route1 is one of the most sustained and solid Severe's in the Lakes.

I too was trying to avoid going up a notch to the Asterisk/D route combination or Tophet Wall.
 wercat 03 Apr 2012
In reply to GBurton:

Ardus is S in my old guidebook, but I think it's HS now?
 Skyfall 03 Apr 2012
In reply to wercat:

I think it might even be MVS.... but a very good route.
 CurlyStevo 03 Apr 2012
In reply to JonC:
MVS now, agreed an excelent route though, but quite a bit harder than severe, there are easier VS routes in the peak district.
OP GBurton 03 Apr 2012
In reply to Alan Bates: This is brilliant stuff, thank you all. For the purposes of this project I'm happy with HS if the recommendation is strong enough, so I clearly must include Tophet Wall! However my penchant lies with Sev due to the greater potential for easy-going adventures with rucksacks, thermos, multiple rounds of beef sandwiches and perhaps a sneaky roll-up on that spectacular historic belay overlooking England's most green and pleasant land. . . anyway, the routes that seem to be ticking all the boxes so far are:

1. Tophet Wall (Napes - will have to do the Needle whilst there, obviously).
2. Troutdale Pinnacle (Borrowdale)
3. Murray's Route (Dow).
4. Arete, Chimney and Crack (Dow).
5. Jones' Route (Scafell).
6. Bracket and Slab (Gimmer).
7. Asterisk & 'D' Route (Gimmer).
8. Oxford and Cambridge Direct/Suaviter (Grey Crag).

I think we're going to have to arrive at a final 5 in priority order. New suggestions and further honing of the above list both welcome! Thank you all once more.
 Ann S 03 Apr 2012
In reply to JonC:

Thanks Jon-finally run out of excuses now.
 Skyfall 03 Apr 2012
In reply to Ann S:

Seriously, just do it. The bold section up the front face (after the reasonably well protected traverse) is just a scramble. You then get to great gear to calm the nerves and complete the final bit of real climbing. Great route.
 Rog Wilko 03 Apr 2012
In reply to JonC: I agree with Jon, Ann. Fang is probably the best short MVS in the Lakes. It is pretty straightforward for an experienced climber like yourself, though it does require some good route-finding nous and a steady approach in the vague section after the initial steep bit. Go for it!
 Ann S 03 Apr 2012
In reply to Rog Wilko: to Jon and Roger-thanks guys. Going to find my inner sergeant major and bark at myself.
 john morrissey 04 Apr 2012
In reply to GBurton:

Bottrill'S Slab
In reply to GBurton:
> (In reply to Alan Bates) This is brilliant stuff, thank you all. For the purposes of this project I'm happy with HS if the recommendation is strong enough, so I clearly must include Tophet Wall! However my penchant lies with Sev due to the greater potential for easy-going adventures with rucksacks, thermos, multiple rounds of beef sandwiches and perhaps a sneaky roll-up on that spectacular historic belay overlooking England's most green and pleasant land. . . anyway, the routes that seem to be ticking all the boxes so far are:
>
> 1. Tophet Wall (Napes - will have to do the Needle whilst there, obviously).
> 2. Troutdale Pinnacle (Borrowdale)
> 3. Murray's Route (Dow).
> 4. Arete, Chimney and Crack (Dow).
> 5. Jones' Route (Scafell).
> 6. Bracket and Slab (Gimmer).
> 7. Asterisk & 'D' Route (Gimmer).
> 8. Oxford and Cambridge Direct/Suaviter (Grey Crag).
>
> I think we're going to have to arrive at a final 5 in priority order. New suggestions and further honing of the above list both welcome! Thank you all once more.

A stab at putting them in order, best quality at top:
1
4
5
7
6
3
2
8

 Simon Caldwell 05 Apr 2012
In reply to GBurton:

If you're happy with HS then you won't do much better than Rib & Slab Climb on Pillar.
OP GBurton 06 Apr 2012
In reply to john morrissey: Wow, that looks absolutely amazing, thanks for the steer.
 Bulls Crack 06 Apr 2012
In reply to GBurton:
> (In reply to john morrissey) Wow, that looks absolutely amazing, thanks for the steer.

It would certainly be an amazing Severe but it's an amazing VS
In reply to Bulls Crack:

... and done in 1903 with nailed boots, a rucksack and an ice axe, which he dropped and which he didn't appear to use for aid in any way ... the crux pitch being 80 with no protection.
OP GBurton 06 Apr 2012
In reply to GBurton: Thank you all for your input. There are so many fantastic routes at this grade in the Lakes that it's hard to know where to start - this list helps solve that problem! Thanks again and here's to a summer of classic rock

1. Tophet Wall, Napes - HS
2. Arete, Chimney and Crack, Dow - Sev
3. Jones' Route Direct from the Lord's Rake, Scafell - HS
4. Asterisk/'D' Route, Gimmer - MVS/Sev
5. Bracket and Slab, Gimmer - Sev
6. Murray's Route, Dow - Sev
7. Troutdale Pinnacle, Black Crag - Sev
8. Oxford and Cambridge Direct/Suaviter, Grey Crag - MS/Sev
9. Rib and Slab Climb, Pillar - HS
10. Kennel Wall, Gouther Crag - MS
11. Bridge's Route, Esk Buttress - HS
12. Slab Route 1, White Ghyll - Sev

Other grades:

Bottrill's Slab, Scafell - VS
Fang, Gouther Crag - MVS
Ardus, Shepherds - MVS
Little Chamonix, Shepherds - VDiff
 stewart murray 09 Apr 2012
In reply to GBurton: If you find Jones' Route comfortable go and do Moss Ghyll Grooves. Just creeps into MVS with 1 well protected 4c move. Also on Scafell,Pisgah Buttress Direct is another good severe, a bit easier than Jones' Route. If you venture up to Pillar New West Climb (VDiff)is an excellent warm up for Rib and Slab.
 Dave Ferguson 09 Apr 2012
In reply to GBurton:
Not sure about the best but a cracking day at severe is to do the Langdale Intergrale.
Start on lower scout with Cubs Crack, up to upper scout for Route 1 (V Diff), up to White Ghyll for Hollin Groove, drop down easy rake after pitch two for Slab route 1. Traverse over to Tarn Crag for Orchid, up to Pavey for Crescent Slabs or Stoats Crack, with a finish on Harrison Stickle for Harristickorner/Spillikin Ridge (V Diff in guide but worth severe). This gives 350m+ of climbing at the grade (choose routes to suit, could be V Diff - HVS) with hardly any descent.

Travel light with one rope and one sack between two and you'll have a cracking day out. If you've got time you can always drop down to Gimmer and do Bracket and slab as well but finishing on Harrison Stickle has always been enough for me.
 monkey1 09 Apr 2012
In reply to GBurton: Another vote for Arete Chimney and Crack on Dow. Great situations, good value exposure at grade, well protected, varied climbing, exhilarating finali. Massively underrated route IMO on a great crag.
 Simon Caldwell 09 Apr 2012
In reply to Dave Ferguson:
> Not sure about the best but a cracking day at severe is to do the Langdale Intergrale.

+1

we did Cub's Groove, Route 2, Slip Knot (harder than the intended route, at VS, but we've wanted to do it for a while and it was free), Slabs Route 2, Cook's Tour, after which we gave in due to arrival of midges.

Next time we'll miss out Lower Scout, too polished to be enjoyable.
OP GBurton 10 Apr 2012
In reply to Dave Ferguson: Outstanding! One to aspire to, certainly. Thanks!

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