UKC

I'm heading to northern California next week for a fortnight. Am thinking about trying to do some easy climbing while there. Does anyone have any suggestions as to good areas to go to at this time of year?

Californian Arete is the easiest but there's not much gear on it.

In reply to roseyjon: Lover's Leap has some great easy climbs, is 5.7 easy enough? and the Hogsback section has some good 5.6's but unless its a lean year for snow it might not be climbable yet.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/California/L...
Nearby Calaveras Dome is more likely to be climbable weatherwise but has less easy stuff
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/California/W...

You could try posting on Supertopo, a largely Californian based version of UKC giving more details of where exactly you will be, what grades you're looking for and style/size of route. You will need to register.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/forum.php

In reply to roseyjon: Where exactly will you be going in California, as "northern California" is an immense area. For instance do you mean the San Francisco Bay area, the Mt. Shasta area, or further north the Humbolt County area just below the Oregon border---true northern California. Each are quite distinct areas with their own climbing centers, so it is helpful for you to specify to get the most useful advice. Also it would help if you define what you mean by "easy climbing"--as these days there are folks who consider E4 or above to be "easy".

Thanks very much for indeed your suggestions so far. I'll try the forum that you suggested. In terms of easy, I suppose up to 5.7. Not sure about exactly where we're going - we've got flights into and from San Francisco 2 weeks apart, but no set ideas as to what to do in between, other than a bit of touring along the coast and heading up to Yosemite and elsewhere in the Sierra Nevada etc to see where we can get to at this time of year. (Not planning on a climbing holiday, as such, but a holiday with a bit of climbing if we can).

In reply to roseyjon: OK, that helps narrow it down. From San Francisco the most accessible major areas (there are various outcrops and boulders in the Bay area and at various places along the coast, but not in the same league as the areas in the mountains)are a few hours east in the Sierra. The main interstate highway (Motorway in your language!!!)heading from the Bay area east to the mountains is Interstate 80. In about 4 hours drive this takes you through Donner Pass a short way north of Lake Tahoe. Exit at Truckee. There are many small but excellent crags on and near the Pass--1 to 3 pitches. There is a good grade spread with a fair number of climbs 5.7 and below in a very pleasant locale, with beautiful Donner Lake for swimming, etc, and Truckee is a neat little town with good restaurants. A good area to mix a little climbing and touristing. It is a short drive down to Lake Tahoe with beautiful scenery, lots of activities and a scattering of climbing areas. The south side of Tahoe is most directly reached from the Bay area via highway 50, which takes you directly under Lovers Leap and close to several other crags. As mentioned by another poster Lovers is one of the best crags in the States for moderate climbs with most routes 3-5 pitches in length. In my opinion Corrugation Corner is one of the--if not THE--best 5.7 anywhere, and there are a number of other worthwhile 5.6,7,and 8s.
If you are going to Yosemite, you will surely find something to climb. In summer it will be very hot in the Valley, but you can find shady climbs that are reasonable especially with an early start. Most Valley climbs are 5.9 and up, but there are worthwhile easier routes as well--check out Nutcracker and the other routes on Manure Pile Buttress. In summer, however, it is best to go up to Tuolumne---much cooler and beautiful. Again much of the best climbing is harder than 5.7, but again there are some good easier routes. Most highly recommended is the SE Buttress of Cathedral Peak--a couple of miles easy walk from the parking area, several pitches up to 5.6/7 of fun climbing to a spectacular summit.If you want to back pack in for a day or so, there are many other worthwhile moderate climbs and scrambles throughout the Sierra. Hope this helps.

In reply to roseyjon: If you're going to Yosemite next week then the valley will be a good temperature to climb (usually!), Tuolomne will be too cold even if the pass is open which it probably won't be.

Nutcracker is a brilliant route but 5.8 (in my guide) and feels like a stiff VS with one reachy 5a move and about 6 pitches. Also on Manure pile buttress is a 5.6 with 2 stars called After Six. I don't know it but the crux is on the first pitch and its 5.3 to 5.5 above.

The Royal Arches Route is easier, some 5.7 but mostly easier. I thought the 1st pitch was the crux and overall it felt about HS 4b. There is one short pendulum from an in situ rope (5.9 free). The descent is either a horrible gully with quite a reputation or a wild multi abseil descent (well bolted anchors) from the end of pitch 14 (recommended). Its a big day out.

Swan slabs and the Church Bowl have some shorter (single or 2-3 pitch) routes and are roadside crags.

Have a good trip, California is brilliant.

In reply to roseyjon: Is that Jon Rose operating under a cunning disguise?

Firstly you'll have an awesome trip. California is the most beautiful and varied country I've ever been to.

It'll still be pretty cold in the valley and my guess is there will still be plenty of snow around.You need to be a bit careful with the grades here. If your log is accurate then 5.7 will be a bit much, especially in the valley. It's notionally around vs but you need to be pretty proficient in jamming and pitches are long and sustained.

Manure pile could be a good place to head to though. Main thing is to have a good look round the valley, absolutely stunning place. Worth walking up to half dome and/or glacier point.

It's a shame you can't get up to tuolumne- I'm pretty sure it will be closed.

I'd really recommend you get across to bishop and the sierras. There's lots of easy bouldering at the happies and sads, bishop is a cool place, amazing landscape. There's also some easy and convenient sport climbing near bishop. Then go down to death valley and back round to SF. Plus spend some time there - great city

In reply to roseyjon:
As above, Yosemite is quite limited for low grades, but Lover's Leap is amazing. Last time we went there we spent far too long at Yos and far too short (only 1 day!) in Lover's. Next time Lover's Leap will be one of our main targets.

In reply to roseyjon: Just one more tip, don't speed in the national parks. The limits are ponderously slow (often 20mph) but the Rangers enforce them with zeal and issue on the spot fines. They often set up speed traps, especially after dark to stop people hittng the wildlife that wanders around when the humans have gone home.

Elsewhere the limits are no more enforced, probably less so, than here.

In reply to roseyjon:

If Lovers Leap is free of snow (I'd be surprised if it is) then thats the best place. Tuolumne will be cold and likely closed. There are lots of easier climbs in Yosemite valley and despite the warnings given in some posts above the grades are not always too bad: 5.4 is usually about 3c (VDish) ; 5.5 about 4a (Severe) and 5.6 about 4b (HS/MVS). They also get film ratings ..eg an 'R' rating usually means very bold (so your 5.6 could even be HVS 4b)

A good alternate place to Swan Slab to get started might be The Goblet a small slab on Glacier Point Apron where you have a few short single pitch cracks all at close to 5.6 and some harder top-rope lines in between. Swan Slab is good but more crowded and polished.

Some other climbs not yet mentioned.

Sunnyside Bench Regular 5.4 a good 4 pitch VD romp.

The Grack 5.6 is amazing but has a full-on boldish friction crux that will feel VS 4b to most. Easy abseil descent.

Munginella 5.6 is brilliant.

Monday Morning Slab right 5.4 was OK as a climb and superbly located but needs a slightly more complex abseil descent.

Footstool Right 5.4 not done this but its reputably bold.

After Six is 5.7 for the first pitch but you can bypass this on ledges coming in from the left to get a brilliant 5 pitch 5.6.

In reply to roseyjon:

There seem to be quite a lot of easy things at Joshua Tree. I was there on my own back in January and I bumbled up some easy solos in good weather.

In reply to Dave Garnett:

Many hundred...watch the grades there though...we did a 5.4 I'd say was HVS 5b. Even the popular roadside areas can have low grade sandbags: at Trashcan rock try B1 the 5.1 crack or Eyestrain at 5.2 if you want to see how hard easy JT climbs can be. There are some soft touches...the exquisite 5.6X pinnacle: Aiguille de JT is in reality a protectable 5.4.

In reply to Offwidth:

I did B1, B2 and Walkway. I couldn't wobble too much because of the spectators!

In reply to Dave Garnett:

Walkway is scary but it does get R at least. Good climbs though! You missed out Tiptoe and Right Sawdust??