In reply to pass and peak:
> Oh and buy gloves not mitts, you can't hold an ice axe properly in mitts.
Not sure I agree, I would quite possibly be minus a digit or two if I had just taken gloves on Mont Blanc... (and I've never had a problem handling an axe wearing mitts)
I wore Dachstein mitts and my hands were numb for most of the ascent then became massively swollen and oedematous back at the Gouter Hut. We did climb it in unusually cold conditions in July and left the hut at 12am to beat an approaching Low Pressure system. I got frost nipped toes on the ascent despite wearing Sportiva Trango Extremes with thinsulate lining so also be wary of advice that 3 season boots are ok if they fit a crampon!
I think in average conditions a pair of gloves like the ME Randonee would be perfect but definitely have some beefy mitts in the bottom of your sack for if conditions crap out. Dachsteins or Buffalo/Montane type mitts weigh next to nothing and are still dextrous enough to do most essential tasks on the climb (open a chocolate bar, take a photo etc)
Like I say, it was unusually cold and not many people were out that day but our Scottish tactics paid off! Technique Extreme in Chamonix will probably have some pretty reasonably priced overmitts/pile mitts which you could get out there if it's looking like it might be a cold summit day.
For most of the rest of your course a thin fleece or leather glove will be fine. ME Randonee is a great glove for colder weather/mixed stuff in the Alps.
Iain