UKC

Can anyone recommend some good E3's around Avon and cheddar for me. Simply because I'm trying to break into the grade and don't want to kill myself.

In reply to Quarryboy: There's a couple at split rock quarry just outside wells that are good and safe

In reply to will909: Video Kills and Certain Surprise. Both are ok for E3 though the starts on both are pretty committing. If you do both of those the other E3 that breaks of right from Certain Surprise is also worthwhile and very safe.

Four Paw Drive at Fairy Cave is alright at the grade.

The Israel Blues at Goblin Combe is good and safe, especially if youve got the strength to hang around and place lots of gear. Skowzed In at Goblin Combe is also alright, pro is pretty bad but the climbing is pretty straightforward for the grade.

Haven't done these yet (so potential sandbag alert) but the following are also on my list:

New Horizons II, Avon (supposedly E2 and not nearly as bold as the guidebook says)
Them, Avon (allegedly well protected)
Ahimsa, Cheddar

In addition to the pair at Split Rock.

Also if you can afford a trip over the bridge to the Wye, have a look at Bogger Bob on Wyndcliffe Quarry (safe as houses) and Party Piece on Shorncliffe (peg looks safeish, potential for high side runners also). Have done both of those.

In reply to Quarryboy: Yellow Edge in Avon is superb.

Al

In reply to Stone Muppet: Good suggestions there. New Horizons II is indeed pretty well protected and the climbing fairly straightforward if you've got a bit of strength to hang around and work out the moves.

I thought Them was quite hard, though as you say very good gear. Quite sustained.

In reply to Stone Muppet:

In reply to Quarryboy:

New Horizons II is E2 in the forthcoming CC guides and Quarryboy has already done it.

In reply to Quarryboy:
- Ladder of Desire is brilliant - my first E3,
- New Horizons also good,
- Yellow edge and Captain Swing - totally classic
- Dragon (soft touch if you're careful with the rock)

In reply to tombawimba:
is ladder of desire well protected?

In reply to Stanners: LOD - Tricky boulder problem start - soft landing. Leading to a delicate move with a couple of pegs about 18 inches below your feet. Once you have a good hold it is bold but easier. It does pack in a lot of climbing.

New Horizons the one starting at the ground is better protected especially with a couple of small cams.

In reply to Quarryboy:

I thought Rancho Cucamonga was safe and soft.

In reply to Quarryboy:

Them is tough for E3, a hard undoggable crux, I've taken a couple of falls off it, and they were not just straightforward plops onto gear below, fair bit of swing involved.
Yellow Edge is fairly amenable, not too hard moves, need a cool head though.
Electric Orgasm was ok at E3, no really hard moves.
Rancho is good, well protected, strenuous to hang around on though, so probably a bit tough for a first E3, unless you are fit...
Think Pink is well protected on the crux hard moves, nice shiny bolts, you shouldn't hurt yourself on that...

In reply to Quarryboy:

I've already done Rancho

In reply to Quarryboy: get up the ramp and get on arms race E4 safer than sport climbing. then new horizons 2 E2, mirage e3 is hard to onsight but amazing as are all the routes on the ramp!

In reply to Quarryboy:

Dragon is not a good recommendation for someone trying to get confidence at becoming an E3 leader - it requires a very cool head.

Think Ladder of.. , New Horizons, Ahimsa (1st pitch a bit bold) are all good recommendations. Asina and Dream Cruise (top end E3) are also good at Cheddar.
Yellow Edge is great and would be good to do with a comfortable E3 leader. Middle pitch is safer and easier than the other two.
I think Them is top end E3 and like others have said there is the potential of a sketchy fall from the crux.

I can vouch for Mirage being safe having fallen off it last Friday. Got it 2nd go though