In reply to Scholes:
Alaska?
- For one big trip lusting after the Cassin is putting all your eggs in one basket. Some years the weather is just not right, or the Japanese Couloir is a bit hard. Would you be so keen to go there if you 'only' summited via the West Butt?
- Weather? Prob better than Himalaya, but no guarantees
- You also definitely need a partner for this, a good one, and do they have as much time off as you do to hang around for the right window?
- Cost? Depends on flights, but AK is $$$ and it adds up, with food, skiplane flight, new cold gear, city travel expenses, insurance - all of which are an unavoidable minimum, plus beer etc
- Culture/Off-Mountain Experience? You're in America until about 11,000ft. I like America, some don't
- Risk? Cassin approach = significant, or difficult, Cassin no good in a storm, West Butt fine
- Climbing Satisfaction? The Cassin is a great tick, if you get it, and if you do it will be under your own steam. The West Butt, using the ropes and tracks of others?
Himalaya? (depends where you mean but I guess Nepal at that time of year?)
- greater chance of getting sick and trip ruined
- greater chance of bad weather
- Eggs in baskets? If you fail on the main thing there will probably be other things nearby to 'have a look at' or at least a trekking route, more options than Denali
- you'd want a partner for something serious and non-commercial, but if their time ran out or they bailed there might be relatively safe solo options, or hire a local. Not in Alaska.
- Culture/Off-Mountain? Interesting cultural aspects if you like that sort of thing, out of the hills you're in a 3rd world country
- Risk? Depends what you do. Altitude prob more of a factor, as is objective danger on some routes
- Climbing Satisfaction? Major summit a good tick if you get it, but possibly on the backs of others? Will a big mountain experience in all forms give you satisfaction, or do you really want a summit?