In reply to muppetfilter:
We are very much pasted the days of tieing ropes around our waists and whereing plimsoles.
Like I said before, if you can't place a wire or cam correctly you shouldn't be using any, nor leading.
In my own opinion, I like to take 1 set of dmm wall nuts and selection of wild country wires as extras. A full set of dragons aswell. Gives me the piece of mind that I've got a piece of protection for most circumstances.
The days of no protection and proper footwear are long gone, learn to evolve with the climbing scene. Or stick to what you prefer, but I'd encourage every trad climber to get wires, hex's and cams. It will open more routes for you if you want to progress.
Learn to place all manors of protection correctly before you start leading and you simply won't have a problem.
I don't grab my cams first time everytime, because the crack won't always except one better than a wire or hex.
I am a new climber, and i must say that choosing the correct piece of protection for the rite crack really isn't rocket science.
Bring on the new shiny kit!!!!
PIMP MY RACK!!!!