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Climbing in Croatia/Slovenia?

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 Dan Lane 19 Apr 2012
We are thinking of going to Croatia for a couple of weeks in late July/early August. Obviously it is going to be hot, but we wondered how hot is “hot”. Average temps are supposed to be about 23 degC. I know that the Paklenica gorge runs E - W so has a shady side and that Anica cuk faces north.

There is also the possibility of going a bit further north and higher to Slovenia .

We’re after experiences and suggestions re: the climbing and general climate that time of year, as well as places to stay either in Croatia or Slovenia . We also don’t mind cycling, history, photography and hanging out at the beach, it doesn’t have to be all about the climbing.

Cheers
Dan
 Lampy 22 Apr 2012
In reply to Dan Lane:
We climbed in Rovinj at the end of July last year and it was fine. You could climb happily in shorts/swimwear until lunchtime when it got too hot and we just nipped down to the beach to cool off. It's lovely as the climbs are just above the beach so you can have a leisurely lunch and swim and then back on the crags in the afternoon once the sun starts losing it's heat.

We also went to one of the inland crags but I'm afraid I can't remember which one it was now though. That one was in a wooded area so that wasn't too bad either.
 lionel 22 Apr 2012
In reply to Dan Lane: Have been to Paklenica 3 times in July / Agust. It is hot, but its always possible to be in the shade as the lower part of the gorge is narrow and creates its own shade. Even so, we tended to get up at 6.00 and climb 'till lunchtime and then spend the afternoons doing other stuff. It can be busy on the areas with short approaches but Anica cuk is lovely and quiet.
 danicro 13 May 2012
In reply to Dan Lane: Hi, Omis Croatia is very good location for what you are looking for. Also Split area offers a lot for climbing in the shade and off course lots of deep water soloing.
Check out this link
http://www.avantura.biz/index.php/rock-climbing/7-day-rock-climbing-trip/su...

and

http://dalmatiaclimbing.com/
 muppetfilter 13 May 2012
In reply to danicro: I noticed that there aren't any mention of professional qualifications or Insurance on your site, are the instructors qualified and Insured ?
 danicro 15 May 2012
In reply to muppetfilter: Our instructors are licensed and qualified for leading sport climbing trips and lessons, or providing multiple courses in sport climbing. We are all members of first croatian sport climbing club Marulianus, from Split.
 JamesM 16 May 2012
In reply to Dan Lane:

Our club ChesterMC make regular trips to Paklenica, its a superb spot.

We stay in a place called Staringrad, hiring a chalet. Its about 10 mins drive into the Paklenica gorge. There are loads of superb routes as pointed out above of all grades. Staringrad is a really nice little village, lots of places to eat also.

I really enjoyed BRAHMS Route on Anika Kuk which was 18/20 pitches odd from memory, with all VD/Severe climbing and then two 5B crack pitches which you can aid. Fantastic route!

Good Luck.
campstine 08 Jun 2012
In reply to Dan Lane:
We are a small family camp, situated directly by the sea, some 6 kilometres from the town of Starigrad – Paklenica, the heart of the Paklenica Riviera. The Paklenica Riviera is a favourite destination for the hikers, climbers, bird- watchers, as well as mountain-bike fans and those in favour of a quiet, relaxing family holiday with abundance of sun, sea – exploring and great culinary offer of our local restaurants and taverns.

www.campstine.com

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