In reply to Mick Ryan - UKC and UKH:
>
> Climbing wall death due to knot failure by Ed Douglas
> The death of a climber at the Warehouse in Gloucester is a tragic reminder of the importance of checking your harness knot.
>
> A coroner’s inquest has ruled that Gloucestershire climber David Rothman died because he did not tie into his harness properly. ...
>
> The inquest focused on how Rothman might have become detached from the rope.
Thanks for citing this case. (I was surprised that it had no commentary here on UK Climbing,
as it has gotten several mentions elsewhere, as noted.) In some reports of the case, the coroner's
assertions of what happened exceed the evidence reported : i.e., the climber fell, unattached to
an unknotted rope; but this doesn't mean that there HAD BEEN a knot (the bowline is faulted)
that came untied, as it could be as for the long-ago Lynn Hill fall, just a rope fed through the
harness but left untied.
Some people have used the case as grounds for avoiding the bowline. While
this is sensible advice for an unsecured, basic "bowline", it isn't so good an
advice about secured bowlines (either by extension or some "back-up" knot).
And the leap to blame a suspected knot misses also the point raised in this
thread of checking one's belay system.
> His belayer Tony Raphael gave evidence that he felt resistance as Rothman’s weight came onto the rope before the highly experienced climber fell.
This was an odd bit of testimony, as reported : the belay felt tension and (then!) looked
up to witness the fall : what was the belayer doing prior --in apparently NOT looking
at the climber? Among the on-line reports is one that says that the climber was done
and being lowered. (One should hope that the inquest got these facts straight; but the
quotes reported don't give such confidence in that.)
> Deputy Gloucestershire coroner David Dooley said: “Had a stopper knot been used, the rope probably would not have failed.”
Right. Here is where the coroner has leapt to the blame-the-bowline camp;
had the bowline been tied, it probably would not have failed, either, in this
top-rope (? --again, a basic fact not reported, to my awareness) situation,
though we don't know the exact rope characteristics.
!!? There is a remark that details will be reported when the investigation
is completed : the accident was over 2 years ago [Jan'11], how much time ... ?!
*kN*