/ Wrist injury on overhangs?

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apd - on 28 Apr 2012
About seven months ago I was climbing at an indoor wall on an overhang, my wrist popped really loudly and became painful a few minutes after. I rested it, strapped it up when I started climbing again and avoided overhangs. No issues until last week on an (one of the few I have done since) awkward overhang and it went again on the first move. It crunched, felt really weak and then painful up to my elbow after a few mins.

Anyone had anything similar? Trying to avoid paying for a physio if I can but need it fixed before September! So thought I would try here first before I took the thirty quid plunge...
dave frost - on 28 Apr 2012
In reply to apd: I would pay your £30 !

It sounds like something similar to what i did and its a prtial dislocation. To be honest you should have probably gone to see a physio the first time, as now youve done it twice on the same wrist it is likely to occur more often ... thats obviously a very bad thing.

Strapping up and resting is no good, you need to do some properly formed trainign to rebalance the weak areas of you wrist (if it is indeed a dislocation).

If it does it again you could be looking at an operation to stop it happening.

Be careful and good luck. It took 6 months for my wrist to heal properly.

apd - on 28 Apr 2012
In reply to dave frost: Oh bloody hell! Right off to book the physio appointment. Thanks Dave hopefully not that but I'm going to go check!
Tom Hill - on 28 Apr 2012
In reply to apd: What sort of hold were you using at the time?
apd - on 28 Apr 2012
In reply to Tom Hill: The last one was an undercling, I can't remember what the first one was though. It seems to happen when I'm putting more strain through my wrist (obviously ha). But it never bothers me when I'm on a fingerboard or anything like that.
JH74 - on 28 Apr 2012
In reply to apd:

Once you get it diagnosed or similar by a professional a Powerball may help a fair bit in strengthening the wrist. That, too, costs money though so more decisions to make...
Tom Hill - on 28 Apr 2012
In reply to apd: Hmm... interesting. Does it hurt when doing a specific action (flexion, extension, abduction, adduction, supination, pronation)?
Lew13 - on 28 Apr 2012
In reply to apd:

Can you do press ups?

I had a similar problem down the outside of my wrist, also made a loud popping noise. Went to 2 different hospitals but said I'd sprained my wrist. Paid £45 for a physic and told me straight away - torn my ulnar triangular fibrocartlidge complex. Ended up needing surgery!

Definitely see a physio!
dave frost - on 28 Apr 2012
In reply to apd: Do you use a fingerboard a lot ? My injuries were mainly caused from doing too many chinups on a finger rail. I got very strong hands but caused problems in my wrists and shoulder.

Its very very easy to overtrain on fingerboards etc becauee they're so static and provide so little variation, so your constantly hitting the same muscle/tendons/fibers and they will eventually give in, overtraining like this makes certain parts of you weaker - as i found out !

Variety is the name of the game with this sort of strength training.

Get well soon.
apd - on 28 Apr 2012
In reply to apd: Aha I have a powerball already, at least that saves a few bob!

It crunches and makes little popping noises from flexion, extension, abduction and adduction but not the other two.

I can do about three push ups before I can't get off the ground anymore! I tend not to do them that much because I'm crap at them. It doesn't seem to hurt my wrist at all. I've severely sprained my shoulder before and the pain isn't quite the same. It's more of a sharp ache (if that exists!). Oh actually that's why I stopped climbing one session because my wrist went when I was bouldering and I woke up the next day with a sprained shoulder which was a bit odd.

I started using it regularly for about three weeks (twice a week, so only six-ish times in total) and it started to niggle at my elbows so I stopped and started doing antagonistic exercises to stop them hurting. I can't do long on it anyway because I can only do ten-ish pull ups so each session was maybe ten-fifteen minutes long.
Tom Hill - on 29 Apr 2012
In reply to apd: It doesn't sound like a TFCC injury which is good. It could be an imbalance of strength. I'm unsure. Go to a physio as soon as possible. Don't even bother with your GP because they nearly always say its a sprain.

Good luck. Oh, and go slacklining; its good when your out of action for a while.
Lew13 - on 29 Apr 2012
In reply to Tom Hill:

Yep, agreed.

Don't bother with GP/Walk in/A & E they'll just fob you off.
apd - on 29 Apr 2012
Yeah, I've been fobbed off before which is why I'm hesitating to use them. It's an odd one, I'll go to the physio as soon as possible and see what they say. Hopefully it's not too serious! Slacklining does look really fun, might have to invest in one when the sun comes out!

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