UKC

Hi

I've just had a go at top-rope soloing, as it seems like a good way to go out and do some hard moves when time and partners are limited. But on grit, I think it's a bit crap because the routes are one-move wonders and the mid-E non classics that are suitable are often filthy. For me grit lends itself to the onsight buzz, rather than any sort of training deal.

So where on Peak limestone would be good for this?

- Is it frowned-upon to TR classic trad routes at Stoney? After all, you can't exactly be accused of making them polished? Any other trad crags where it's possible and acceptable? I can't think of any...

- Are there any sport crags you can TR, or am I left having to eat an awful lot of my words and go to Horseshite (it's got some 7s hasn't it?)?

Cheers for any advice - although I can't think of a time I've seen anyone doing this so maybe I won't get any!

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Horseshit quarry main wall is good for this You can access the bolts at the top by walking around. The main wall has quite a few OK routes as well, that are longish. You could get 400m of climbing done in a session.

In reply to Jon Stewart:


On the contrary. The Electricity Sub Station section has a long history of shunting / top roping. The belays are easy to set up and the routes suitably pumpy as training routes namely: Helmut Schmitt, Cabbage Crack, Jasper, Olicer and Millionaire Touch

In reply to shark:

Ah good, thanks. I have a certain affection for Stoney, but I think Electric Quarry suits training better than going out to enjoy some climbing. Will get on those routes.

In reply to Jon Stewart: Give them a bit of a clean too and everyone is a winner

In reply to Jon Stewart:

I could imagine some very exciting swing potential if trying to shunt some of the Stoney Classics ! High Tor is better in that respect but mighty antisocial given that at least two of the classic routes there are rising traverse lines.

In reply to Jon Stewart:



clean 'em up and publicise it then they may become popular. You get strong and people get on 'forgotten classics'.

In reply to Jon Stewart:


Yes. But that doesn't stop climbers from doing it.

In reply to GrahamD: I was thinking more Wee Doris and Bubbles Wall rather than Flakes Direct!

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKC and UKH:

Why is it frowned upon? You simply can't make the conditions of the routes any worse.

In reply to Dave Warburton and Mark:

Good point, will do a bit of this too. Can be quite hard to select a route that's interesting enough to be worth the bother, but rubbish enough not to be a classic which is 'above' toproping.

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Well I think your choices of Stoney and Horseshite have pretty much nailed it!

Chris (Who always gets spanked at Stoney and thus cares little for it!)

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Yip, that's my reason at Stoney!

In reply to shark:

Funny that. Was talking to Ben Masterson at the weekend. Ben M and Jerry et al as most know used to work out on Helmut Schmitt, but used to lead it as well, 'just to keep things honest.'

Ben described taking long falls onto the RP 3 that protects the route high up.....(those sharp railings, I have nightmares about)

The following day after talking to Ben Masterson, myself and Captain McAddie were at the base of Cabbage Crack/Helmut Schmitt....guess what Neil found..... two BD micro nuts.

Odd that!

Helmut Schmitt E6? And some!

M

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Of course you can.


Chris

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKC and UKH:

I once watch Pete and Alec Livesey on Jasper. Pete led and Alec fell off high in the groove and got lowered to the ground. Pete soloed down the top wall to get the high runners back - high above those very railing - I was stunned.

Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs:

How?

The coefiicient of friction between hand/fingers and glassy rock on some climbs at Stoney can only be decreased by adding oil, scientific studies have proved that. (Moffat J. and Moon B., Advanced Friction Studies Journal,1989, 39(9), 921-936)

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKC and UKH: Good post!

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKC and UKH:

Definitely, I saw a Raven Tor 'regular' get spanked on it a few years ago. It's even harder now as yet another hold has come off it!

cheers
Graham