In reply to GrahamD:
> Actually there are very few scenarios where abandoning a climber hanging suspended in their harness is a good idea. Much better to try to lower them to safety asap in which case there will not be weight on your belay.
Without wanting to "Abandon" your partner, there are still lots of situations where simply lowering will not be an option and they are not rare, e.g.
Overhanging sea cliff (assuming they don't fancy a swim or are unconscious).
Any lead where they are over half the rope length above you.
Multipitch lead up overhanging terrain if the partner is not able to accept a rope thrown out to them for whatever reason.
Simply lowering someone to the ground is a great first resort and if the sh*t hits the fan, it's almost always easier to get someone down the base of a climb than up to the top BUT there are a lot of situations where escaping the system is an essential skill, some even when your partner is conscious.