/ Deep Water Solo routes on Portland - what route is this!?

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homing-penguin - on 20 May 2012
By the lighthouse on Portland, there's a shed load of DWS routes and highball boulder probs. Yesterday afternoon I went to do 'Temporary Lifestyle', I think its HS Vb, but through more luck than anything, I stayed a dry penguin. The route starts from a ladder below a crane, but nearer the lighthouse there's another crane, and another ladder, and chalk marks, so its clearly a route. I didn't climb it because I'm not brilliantly brave or good and thought I'd probably wind up flopping backwards into the water without knowing how deep the water is. So yeah, if anyone can tell me what the route is, and what its called, and if its an s0, that'll be brilliant.


trouserburp - on 20 May 2012
In reply to homing-penguin:

I think you're talking about Deep Zawn area which has a few routes,all S0. The traverse rightwards (cranewards) is Red Crane Traverse 5 S0, traverse all the way round to a square cut out. Other routes go upwards at between 6a and 7a+

Just going by my guidebook mind. You're keen taking the dip in this weather
homing-penguin - on 21 May 2012
Brilliant, that's helpful!

I researched it and they're all s0 so I can have a bit of a play.

homing-penguin - on 21 May 2012
except the arete....
The Ivanator - on 21 May 2012
In reply to trouserburp: The Red Crane traverse is harder but less scary than Temporary Lifestyle, you are never too high above the water, but the climbing is more technical on small sharp fingr holds. Fun route though. If you are after easy DWS check out Aquanaut Buttress at Swanage, a good selection of S0 routes in the easier grades there.
homing-penguin - on 22 May 2012
That looks brilliant! Thanks! Do you much DWS down there?
trouserburp - on 22 May 2012
In reply to homing-penguin:

On reflecton I'd like to retract everything I said about the weather - 25 degrees here today B)

funsized on 22 May 2012
In reply to homing-penguin:

Me and a buddy (iamchris) were there on Sat, so I think that was our chalk!

It was our first time to the sector and we had an absolute blast, really high quality problems.

We also checked out cave hole for the first time as well - also very good(Temporary Lifestyle has to be one of the best HS's in the country)

Get yourself a Dorset rockfax - its all in there!

The Ivanator - on 22 May 2012
In reply to funsized: The new Dorset Rockfax only has limited coverage of the DWS stuff due to pressure for space in the guide, if you are specifically interested in the DWS stuff then the Rockfax Deep Water guide is the one to go for.
I've done all the routes up to F5 at the Aquanaut Buttress in Swanage and they are certainly worthwhile and a great way to spend a sunny afternoon. Codfish (F5) is a little more nervy than the other routes (S1 or 2) as there is a ledge at the bottom that would mean any fall would need to be under control to clear it.
homing-penguin - on 22 May 2012
I'll probably leave the S2 and S3s to the brave climbers.... DWS guide you say - sounds interesting.....
The Ivanator - on 23 May 2012
In reply to homing-penguin: This is the book http://www.rockfax.com/climbing-guides/books/deep-water/
Bar Codfish all the other DWS routes at Aquanaut Buttress are safe S0 routes, the rock there is good quality high friction Limestone. Having a little jump off the top is fun too!
homing-penguin - on 30 May 2012
I have now the DWS rockfax and a huge 'DWS boner'.
The Ivanator - on 30 May 2012
In reply to homing-penguin: Falling in the water at this time of year will soon put paid to that!
homing-penguin - on 02 Jun 2012
LOL yeah I'm trying to get motivated enough to try a 6a....

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