UKC

Warwickshire's Finest Outdoor Climbing?

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 67hours 23 May 2012
So today I went out looking for some of the outdoor venues listed within 20km of Warwick. There are 4, of which 2 are apparently on private land or banned. This leaves:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=16795
and
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=17599

Now, delightful as the Arete 33A was (photo: http://photos.insaniak.com/arete_33a.jpg ), I can't help but feel that there must be something else somewhere nearby. Can anybody help?
In reply to insaniak:

No.

There isn't any rock.

Sorry.
In reply to insaniak:

Try Leicestershire.
 Dave C 24 May 2012
In reply to insaniak: That Warwickshire makes Leicestershire look good pretty much sums it up!


In reply to victim of mathematics & crossdressingrodney:

Hows tricks you two?! Long time no see!


 Dave Garnett 24 May 2012
In reply to victim of mathematics:

There's Corley Rocks but it's esoteric*.


*Soft sandstone; slopey yet friable, filthy and protectionless. On the downside it's pretty small.
 Michael Hood 24 May 2012
In reply to insaniak: The outside walls of Kenilworth castle were getting chalk on them in the 80's - not sure if you can still get away with it.

The next decent stuff is in Leicestershire; ignore the naysayers, there is some good stuff there (and a load of esoteria).
 Hat Dude 24 May 2012
In reply to Michael Hood:
> (In reply to insaniak) The outside walls of Kenilworth castle were getting chalk on them in the 80's - not sure if you can still get away with it.
>

I posted some stuff on this last week

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=505948&v=1#x6877391
 ripper 24 May 2012
In reply to insaniak: and there's the stone wall at brum uni, altho yes i know that's not actually warks
 jon 24 May 2012
In reply to Hat Dude:

That's a shame. As Michael Hood says, it was the outside walls that just faced onto fields, so not really inconveniencing anyone really. Have the fields now been built on?
 Hat Dude 24 May 2012
In reply to jon:

It is a shame; it was a lovely setting to climb on a summer's evening; the fields haven't been built on, it's still as shown in the attached link

http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/content/properties/kenilworth-castle-amp...

The outer wall is up to about 6 metres high & most "routes" tended to finish with a long, slightly scarey reach for the top, then you'd have to reverse one of the easier routes at about severe.
 Ramblin dave 24 May 2012
In reply to insaniak:
If it's any consolation, remember that there are quite a lot of people in the south east who pass through Warwickshire an hour or more into their drive to almost any climbing area...
 rurp 24 May 2012
In reply to insaniak: tree
 jon 24 May 2012
In reply to Hat Dude:

We used to climb there a lot in the early 80s. Mind you, if it was my wall, I wouldn't want people climbing on it!
OP 67hours 24 May 2012
In reply to Ramblin dave: Hmmm, not quite the consolation I was looking for but thanks! Interesting tale about Kenilworth Castle too, but back to my brick viaducts then I guess!
OP 67hours 24 May 2012
In reply to Dave Garnett: What and where is Corley Rock? Sounds great!
 Dave Garnett 24 May 2012
In reply to Horse:

Those pictures rather flatter it! You a fan too?

I grew up within cycling distance and learned to abseil there. We started experimenting with climbing but fortunately somebody took me to the Roaches and it never had quite the same appeal again.
 Dave Garnett 24 May 2012
In reply to jon:

I remember a particularly crimpy problem traversing across the big wooden doors just using the lines of metal studs.

At least you're not yet old enough to say 'I remember when it was all fields round here'!
 Horse 24 May 2012
In reply to Dave Garnett:

Never been I was just curious so did a quick search. I'd continue up the M6 to the Roaches.
 john arran 24 May 2012
In reply to Dave Garnett:

> I remember a particularly crimpy problem traversing across the big wooden doors just using the lines of metal studs.

Yes, I remember doing that too, to connect different sections of 'real' traversing! It's a real shame if bouldering is no longer an option there - especially if it's only due to some local wannabe cap-wearers. It didn't seem to me to be doing anything or anybody any harm.
 Bulls Crack 24 May 2012
In reply to insaniak:

Bournbrooke Wall not good enough for you?
 Dave Garnett 24 May 2012
In reply to Bulls Crack:

Now you're talking!
 jon 24 May 2012
In reply to Dave Garnett:
> (In reply to Bulls Crack)
> Bournbrooke Wall not good enough for you?
> Now you're talking!

Hmmm, I remember when it was all fields round there...

 Bulls Crack 24 May 2012
In reply to jon:

Before Selly Oak and the Uni? You must be over 100 years old!
 Dave Garnett 24 May 2012
In reply to Bulls Crack:

Maybe just before the all-weather pitches.
 jon 25 May 2012
In reply to Bulls Crack:
> (In reply to jon)
>
> Before Selly Oak and the Uni? You must be over 100 years old!

Yes. Have to use age nowadays as an excuse to fail on so many routes. Seemed like I spent every Tuesday (I think) evening in the summer there in the late seventies with Jimmy Jewel, Ian Parsons and co, then later Dave, Hilary and others who were actually AT the university!
 gear boy 25 May 2012
In reply to insaniak: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=17459

i top roped there years back when I lived nearby, If you live down in warwick its not worth the drive
 Dave Garnett 25 May 2012
In reply to gear boy:

There are actually named problems?!
 gear boy 25 May 2012
In reply to Dave Garnett: Not that I am aware of, just used to wrap a sling round a tree, clump of brambles etc at top of a line and climb it, usually pulling a few holds off on the way!
In reply to Dave C:

There's a quality day or even two to be in Leicestershire! Oaks pinnacle anyone?

It's been a while hasn't it? I take it from your co-ordinates that you're still in Australia?

Let me know if you're ever Bristol way and fancy a climb.

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