In reply to Wonko The Sane:
>
> As to sherpas leading tour parties up Everest and not stopping...... not nice, but if they did stop (and speaking as a non mountaeer here who has never been near anything bigger than a big hill) would it not expose more people to danger if they did stop and lose focus on their charges in such a hostile place?
>
> That's a question, not a statement.
Above a certain height, the higher you go, the harder it is to think, the harder it is to change your mind. This is a physiological effect of the altitude, and it can be helped by acclimatisation and by the use of supplementary oxygen. The harder you are working physically, the easier it is to get tunnel visioned. The more time, effort and money you put into a project, the harder it is to admit to yourself that the project isn't going to succeed.
These factors all combine to form the "summit fever" that afflicts so many on Everest.
This summit fever gets people killed - this year I have read about one woman pressing on to the summit despite her Sherpa's repeated requests to turn round - she died.
So if some people get so messed up in the head they cannot keep themselves alive, it is unsurprising that some people get so messed up in the head that they walk past other people without stopping to help.
I reckon this happens because people have visualised getting to the top so strongly that this is what keeps them going. This repeated visualisation and determination and dreaming enables people to endure all manner of suffering and keeps them going to the top. But this also puts them into a position where they might die, or might let other people die without offering any help.
I think the answer to this problem is deliberate mental exercises and visualisations carried out many times long before getting into the "death zone." Rehearse again and again the decision points you need to look out for - turn back time, weather, your physical condition, the condition of your party, other people on the hill. Go over various what-if scenarios, and decide what you would like to look back on if these situations came up - in 5 years time would you be happy with yourself if you walked past dying people on your way up and your way down and did nothing to help them (if you passed them on your way up then you obviously had the strength to offer some help, and you won't know if that help will be enough to save someone until you try).