UKC

NEW REVIEW: Lightweight Harnesses

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 UKC Gear 01 Jun 2012
Lightweight harness review - group image 1, 5 kbLightweight sport climbing harnesses have come a long way in recent years. All the major manufacturers are now making models specially designed to be 'ultra lightweight'. In this article we take a look at the main lightweight harnesses on the market and offer our opinions on their strengths and weaknesses.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=4476
 duzinga 01 Jun 2012
In reply to UKC Gear:
I thought every 5 years was a conservative approach to replacing harness.

Does anybody who uses his/her harness every weekend replace it after two years? Is this too cautious or am I lacking a sense of safety here?
 cuppatea 01 Jun 2012
In reply to UKC Gear:

...and old harnesses have failed on climbers with fatal results....

Like in Cliffhanger? :O
 proze 02 Jun 2012
In reply to UKC Gear: Funny that you comment on the Arcteryx having bigger leg loops. I returned a Hirundos and bought the Arcteryx because of that. The Hirundos is made for people with very skinny thighs! Which, I suppose, a lot of climbers do have.
 tom290483 02 Jun 2012
In reply to UKC Gear:

are the vertical slot things on the hirundos harness not for the ice clipper attachments rather than standard carabiners?
 Cellinski 03 Jun 2012
In reply to tom290483:

Yes, definitely, they are made for the ice clippers.
In reply to Cellinski:
> Yes, definitely, they are made for the ice clippers.

With this being a lightweight sport climbing harness which you wouldn't normally winter climb in, the purpose is as described in the article (we got this from Petzl). However it could be that the feature has morphed from the Petzl winter harnesses.

Alan
 TobyA 03 Jun 2012
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax: The Hirundos has interestingly become one of the most popular harness for hard ice and mixed climbing Alan - I guess just because it's so light (and a certain Swiss gentleman who seems to favour that model has no doubt helped! http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0008/2132/files/IMG_7476.jpg?100697 ). Obviously that's not what you were testing for, but the purpose made ice clippers do seem to work well because they have a flat back profile meaning they are designed to be both comfy for the climber and keep the clipper in the right orientation - i.e. outwards. I sometimes use just normal krabs in the ice clipper slots on my DMM harness and they do flip flat like the krab in your pic.
 hexcentric 03 Jun 2012
In reply to UKC Gear:

Hmm ... not a very well informed review. Particularly don't agree that men should wear their harnesses on their hips. Whilst I'm not denying that this is common practice (especially amongst men shaped by their beer consumption!) it's not the best plan if you'd prefer to stay in the harness should you accidently render yourself upside down!!
 Hannes 03 Jun 2012
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:
> With this being a lightweight sport climbing harness which you wouldn't normally winter climb in, the purpose is as described in the article (we got this from Petzl). However it could be that the feature has morphed from the Petzl winter harnesses.

Funnny you should say that as the hirundos is my winter harness and when the trad season comes around I break out the other harness. The only problem is with the sizing, the gap between medium and large is massive
 Graham 03 Jun 2012
In reply to UKC Gear:
I have the CAMP Air CR harness (same as the CAMP air in the review) except it has adjustable leg loops, ice clipper slots and all four gear loops are plastic coated. It's a bloody fantastic harness for ice, mixed and alpine climbing and is still pretty comfy for trad or sport climbing and super light - even lighter than some so-called "lightweight" webbing type harnesses for ski touring/alpine climbing and infinitely more comfortable
In reply to UKC Gear: FWIW I thought the review was pretty useless as it completely omitted the only information that I think that 90% of people planning a purchase would actually want; comprehensive sizing information, easily accessible and in one place.

As someone currently thinking about a new harness and hence, I would assume, UKC's target audience, it was a fairly worthless and frustrating read as at the end of it I had not the slightest clue which if any harnesses would actually fit me.

The answer (which is probably obvious from the tone of this post) is pretty much none of the above. However, I had to waste a good half an hour trawling through websites to find that out.

8 out of 10 for the idea, organisation and individual commentary but 2 out of 10 for the over all execution and editing.

That said if anyone knows does know of a good lightweight harness that will properly fit someone slim (70cm waist) with very slim legs (45cm), without being at the limits of adjustment, then I would really love to know about it.
 ashley1_scott 04 Jun 2012
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:
If you are after a really lightweight harness purely for onsights and redpoint attempts try this one.
http://www.bananafingers.co.uk/edelrid-loopo-p-562.html
You will want the xs.
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:
> (In reply to UKC Gear) FWIW I thought the review was pretty useless as it completely omitted the only information that I think that 90% of people planning a purchase would actually want; comprehensive sizing information, easily accessible and in one place.

Thanks for your feedback.

I assume the reason you might want comprehensive sizing information is so that you could order a harness online without trying it on. If that is the case then I would strongly recommend against it since the variation between the different brands and fits is considerable. Two harnesses given the same measurements might appear to fit but they could in reality be quite different when you actually put them on. Conversely, a harness that fits one person well might not fit another person with the same leg and waist measurements.

Like rock boots, always try your harness on before you buy.

Alan
In reply to TobyA:

Interesting comments. I shall add something like that to the article later on.

Alan
 Oceanic 04 Jun 2012
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

I don't think sizing information is always about buying online, it would be hard to find a shop that stocks all of the harnesses in your review, so some sizing information might help to eliminate a harness before the trying on stage, and therefore reduce some of the driving around.

Thanks though, It's a good review.
In reply to Oceanic:
> I don't think sizing information is always about buying online, it would be hard to find a shop that stocks all of the harnesses in your review, so some sizing information might help to eliminate a harness before the trying on stage, and therefore reduce some of the driving around.

Yes, I can see that but the middle sizes, which are of most interest, would normally be stocked, and the extreme sizes should be covered by the sizing table at the base of the article to an extent - links to the manufacturers site for extra info.

Alan
 jon 04 Jun 2012
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:

> if anyone knows does know of a good lightweight harness that will properly fit someone slim (70cm waist) with very slim legs (45cm),

Hmmm...

Slim gent, mid 30s, seeks lightweight harness for close relationship, with view to tying knot...
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:
> I assume the reason you might want comprehensive sizing information is so that you could order a harness online without trying it on.

You assume wrongly. Oceanic is absolutely spot on.

I want the sizing information so that I can quickly narrow down which harnesses it is actually worth making an effort to investigate further by trying on. That is something which can entail both considerable time and expense.

It took me 1.5 hours yesterday and a 20 mile round trip essentially just to find out that the current BD Momentum SA, almost fits, but is right on the limits of adjustment. They have made a right mess of stowing the excess length of waist strap when fully tightened, the quick adjust buckles are awkward to use and the legloop adjustment buckles do not really 'lock' when fully tightened. In all, I was not overly impressed, so I am still looking.

If you are thinking of updating the article, an approach using graphs (waist size on one axis, leg size on the other) rather than tables would probably work extremely well.
 nufkin 04 Jun 2012
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:
> (In reply to The Ex-Engineer)
> Like rock boots, >

Shoes, dammit, shoes!
In reply to ashley1_scott:
> If you are after a really lightweight harness purely for onsights and redpoint attempts try this one.
> http://www.bananafingers.co.uk/edelrid-loopo-p-562.html
> You will want the xs.

Thank you for the link. I had actually already spotted it and if the sizing info is correct then it should fit better than most. However, I am slightly hesitant about going for such a radical design...
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:
> I want the sizing information so that I can quickly narrow down which harnesses it is actually worth making an effort to investigate further by trying on. That is something which can entail both considerable time and expense.
>
> It took me 1.5 hours yesterday and a 20 mile round trip essentially just to find out that the current BD Momentum SA, almost fits, but is right on the limits of adjustment. They have made a right mess of stowing the excess length of waist strap when fully tightened, the quick adjust buckles are awkward to use and the legloop adjustment buckles do not really 'lock' when fully tightened. In all, I was not overly impressed, so I am still looking.

I am still not sure how a full table would have helped you. Our simple table indicates that all the harnesses are worth trying in their S or XS size for you. The Momentum SA harness also fits in the size requirements you specify but as you found out in practice, it isn't quite the fit you want. A comprehensive table wouldn't have ruled it out.

Personally I have never taken the size specifications on climbing gear very seriously having worn both size 9 and size 6 rock SHOES in my time on the same pair of feet. I would never even consider such information as being accurate enough to base my choice on hence I didn't give it much priority in the review. I stick by this choice since I think people should be encouraged to try harnesses on.

Alan
 duzinga 04 Jun 2012
In reply to UKC Gear: So I guess nobody replaces their harness after two years:P
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:
> Our simple table indicates that all the harnesses are worth trying in their S or XS size for you.

Alan, that is precisely the problem! As soon as you consider the leg loop sizing, which is fairly basic information, none of them apart from possibly the Petzl Hirundos are really worth considering.

I also think you are wrong as regards the vagaries of harness sizing. Unlike rockshoes they are extremely easy to measure and I have always found figures for harnesses to be accurate.

As an example, the quoted sizes for the BD Momentum I tried on yesterday are exactly right. The issue for me was not the size or fit which was good, it was just very poorly designed for use when fully tightened. Having measured several DMM harnesses last month, the figures supplied for them are again spot on. Equally the figures quoted for the Petzl Hirundos tally exactly with my previous experiences of their harnesses - their XS should fit my legs perfectly, but I will probably need a S for my waist.
 cuppatea 04 Jun 2012
In reply to duzinga:
Not me! Though I'm thinking I should retire my 20+ year old Petzl Guru if I get back into climbing...
All the harnesses I've seen recently have had super lightweight ziplock buckles which don't inspire confidence, or maybe I'm old fashioned?
Does anyone still make good strong harnesses with big strong doubleback buckles?

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