UKC

Central Rib Route III - Wintours leap

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 lone 12 Jun 2012
Hi

I'm looking to start climbing this year and i'm set to go with someone experienced next month, i've been Bouldering to build up my technique and strength, is Central Rib Route III - Wintours leap a good climb to start on? Or maybe to much?

I scramble ok up to Grade 2, never climbed a VDiff before.

How committing is the climb ?

Jason
 Calder 12 Jun 2012
In reply to lone:

Hang on, I'll just enter the details into the computer...

... been bouldering... ...climbing with someone experienced... ...worked E3 5b... ... multipitch VDiff... ...limestone... ...July...

Computer says...

Refer to this thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=509242&v=1#x6908752
 Postmanpat 12 Jun 2012
In reply to lone:

I haven't done it in years but you should be OK on a v diff. Might be better to start out on a single pitch?
Can I suggest that you put this sort of query in the "Starting out" forum which I believe was initiated to avoid unhelpful answers like Calder's.
 Calder 12 Jun 2012
In reply to Postmanpat: Just had an intolerant moment. Sorry.
 GrahamD 12 Jun 2012
In reply to lone:

I think you will find it more akin to a scramble than a hard climb. If its dry, go for it.
 Tru 12 Jun 2012
In reply to lone:

I seem to remember a traverse that had an enjoyable bit of exposure but the rest of the route is very tame and safe feeling.

Coincidentally I climbed this route when I was only into bouldering and sport and it made me buy a trad rack, the views are stunning.

Rib route 1 is also worth a go with slightly more involved climbing but less exposure.

P.S. Most people will recommend climbing single pitch routes first because communication is easier, you should learn the basic trad skills first and it is easier to get back to the ground if something were to go wrong.

Speak with your partner first and discuss your responsibilities before leaving the ground. If you do not feel happy get some single pitch experience first.
carlo 12 Jun 2012
In reply to lone: You'll find the first pitch is polished but safe, if you can, try the corner direct to finish, far better. Agree that the views are stunning, my local crag.
In reply to lone: Whilst I imagine that you'd be OK, the Central Rib routes do commit you to what might feel like a big bit of rock to start with.

Why not try the Corner Buttress routes? From memory they have stances from which you can escape fairly easily should you wish and there's a mix and match feel about the adjacent routes offering you the option of a different pitch to try should the one facing you not take your fancy.

But your more experienced partner should be able to offer more relevant advice and, obviously, will have a big say in whatever it is that you do.

T.
 alan moore 12 Jun 2012
In reply to Pursued by a bear:
Agreed. I learnt to climb here, and Corner Buttress is a much more sensible option (The moderate variation was my first ever route). I remember failing on Central Rib the first time. The slippery groove is quite tricky on first aquainatance, but safe enough if you are going second...
 Chris Sansum 12 Jun 2012
In reply to lone:

Yes, the Corner Buttress Routes are probably a better option for a beginner, if a little less classic. But a good place to practice multi-pitch in an almost single pitch environment (short pitches with big ledges and tree belays).

That said Central Rib was my first ever rock route. We just rolled up, practiced setting up a few anchors at the bottom, and then went for it.

If you did Central Rib you can pick and choose between several options. I'd recommend doing the rib on P1. It is a pity the second half of the pitch has that polish - probably the only negative thing about the whole route (apart from the number of people who do the route - get on it early!). Like someone else said, the corner on pitch 2 is well worth doing, and I don't think it is harder than the other options. And well protectable.
 GrahamD 12 Jun 2012
In reply to Tru:

The OP doesn't just boulder, he goes scrambling as well so could well enjoy the exposure of multipitch
 beardy mike 12 Jun 2012
In reply to lone: Absolutely fine and I reckon this is what you'll like while you're doing it: http://tinyurl.com/2atnhre
wyeclimber 12 Jun 2012
polished but safe, good belays, good gear and a nice position. worth a look for a first multi pitch route in the valley. top pitch is the crux.
but it is s short last pitch.
Removed User 13 Jun 2012
In reply to wyeclimber: No, the top pitch out to the right as described in the guide is simple (though quite nicely exposed). Please don't take the last pitch of CR2 directly above the belay instead. A lot of people climbing CR1 or 3 take this VS pitch but it is getting worn out as a result – it would be kinder to leave it for people who want to do the whole CR2 route.
OP lone 13 Jun 2012
In reply to Postmanpat: Thanks, it does disuade you to ask questions when you get responses like that.

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