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Recommend an easy trad venue near Milton Keynes

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 Piers 13 Jun 2012
Hello,

Desperately trying to find a suitable trad crag to take beginners in the Milton Keynes areas. Happy to drive approx 1 hour from start point. I know the Peak District is only 2 hours north but my driver doesn't want to go too far. (Change drivers I hear you say!!)

So any suggestions greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Piers.
In reply to Piers:

There are no worthwhile crags of any sort (suitable for beginners or otherwise) within 1 hour's drive from Milton Keynes.

Markfield is the only place I can think of that even vaguely fits the bill, but it's:
a) Awful
b) Probably a bit banned I think
c) A terrible place to take beginners as it's awful
d) Awful
e) Falling apart and devoid of gear
f) Awful

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but you really would need to drive to somewhere like Harborough or Birchen for what you're after.
 GrahamD 13 Jun 2012
In reply to Piers:

Peak District for beginners, I'm afraid.

You might make Avon a bit faster but its not so beginner friendly
 mattrm 13 Jun 2012
In reply to Piers:

There's some crags around Leicester, but I'd imagine they're all pretty awful. I'd say it's the Peak District.

If the driver doesn't want to drive for that long, get them to drive faster.
 Neil Williams 13 Jun 2012
In reply to Piers:

Another vote for the Peaks.

Neil
 Big Steve 13 Jun 2012
In reply to Piers: Markfield quarry isnt all that bad, but it is not somewhere where you will return too. There isnt that much there, and all routes are short. It is 1 hour from MK up the M1 though so fits the bill in that respect. There are other small crags in the Leicestershire area, some bouldering and some short trad so why not take a trip and look at all the crags in one afternoon. routes are all online, alhtough I dont remember the website of hand.
 GrahamD 13 Jun 2012
In reply to Big Steve:

> routes are all online, alhtough I dont remember the website of hand.

Well, there isn't really an incentive to remember it in all honesty

 The Ivanator 13 Jun 2012
 Skyfall 13 Jun 2012
In reply to Piers:

If you want to have a good time and they remember it for the right reasons, go to the Peak.

On 2nd thoughts, perhaps not... grit, arghhh!
 mattrm 13 Jun 2012
In reply to Piers:

Yeah, Markfield Quarry looks ace as long as you want to put beginners off for life:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1186

I'm sure it's fine if you're local and wanting to climb in the evening, but I wouldn't actually drive an hour just to go there.
 GrahamD 13 Jun 2012
In reply to The Ivanator:

The old Leicester guide (with all the stars) was written very tongue in cheek - even to the extent that Markfield was a higher quality venue than Froggatt !

Markfield probably doesn't merit any stars.
gizmo 13 Jun 2012
In reply to Piers:

Sorry to echo everyone else's responses, but I've lived just outside of Milton Keynes for the past four years and I've yet to find a decent trad crag within an hours drive.
 trivett 13 Jun 2012
http://www.leicestershireclimbs.co.uk/

and

http://www.leicesterclimbs.f9.co.uk/

There are some websites with Leicestershire crags... been to a few and frankly you would be best to drive the extra 50mins to Birchen. Craig Buddon is probably the nicest climbing, but certainly not a beginners venue. Beacon hill is good for a bit of easy bouldering in nice weather, as is Bradgate park. Hangingstone quarry is simply aweful; sharp and unpleasant climbing (in the easier grades at least). Outwoods crag is a great place to teach people how to abseil, not much more...

It has to be the peaks.... MK isn't a ideal place to be a climber... if you want to stay local, go biking instead maybe...
 Neil Williams 13 Jun 2012
In reply to trivett:

Or go to Big Rock or the Pinnacle and climb indoors...

Neil
In reply to GrahamD:
> (In reply to The Ivanator)
>
> The old Leicester guide (with all the stars) was written very tongue in cheek - even to the extent that Markfield was a higher quality venue than Froggatt !
>
> Markfield probably doesn't merit any stars.

I'm fairly sure that it used a starmetres system to prove that Markfield was slightly better than Gardoms, but a fair way short of Froggatt. I don't have a copy to check, although I do like the starmetres idea and have cribbed it for my complex algorithm which tells me where I ought to go climbing based on the unclimbed starmetres:distance the crag is from my house ratio...

 GrahamD 13 Jun 2012
In reply to victim of mathematics:

You can tell its a long while since I bothered getting it off the book shelf
OP Piers 13 Jun 2012
In reply to Piers:

Thanks for the responses guys. You all confirmed my fears! I shall try to convince a drive to the Peak as I want to go there too!

Ta.

Piers

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