UKC

Another destination question for all you Westcountry UKCers. I've done a fair bit of stuff on the Culm Coast and down at West Penwith on the granite but seem to have entirely missed the bit of the North Cornwall coast in-between. I've always thought that this area was one where there were a few big and scary high E-grade climbs like Eroica and Darkinbad etc with little of any quality at HVS and below. But have I missed out on some gems?

I've got an itching to do some exploring around the Padstow area looking at Pentire Point, Kellan Head, Butter Hole etc. Ive had a look in the North Coast CC guide and the lack of stars and/or crag diagrams for the area doesn't inspire. It also seems a bit out of date (judging by the new entry climbs in the database here). Similarly, the new Rockfax Westcountry guide isn't exactly overflowing with lower-grade suggestions in this area. So anyone out there know:-

There are a few routes at Rumps Point but not much feedback on them - anyone done any of these and are they any good - likewise Kellan Head/Slab? Similarly anyone been to Butter Hole and is it still advisable to bring your own stakes and lump-hammer (per UKC crag page)?! Finally - any suggestions for nice campsites in the area (for which read; clean facilities, no groups of rampaging neds and within walking distance of a decent pub)?

Thanks chaps...

In reply to oscaig:
What - nobody on here climed at Pentire or surrounds? How about Carn Gowla down the road then? Seems I may have to go do some prospecting!

In reply to oscaig:

Know all of them well. There's quite a bit at the grade all along the Atlantic Coast. I assume you have the 2000 CC guide. If so then try http://climbers-club.co.uk/newroutes/nr-sw-northdevon.html and http://javu.co.uk/Climbing/NewRoutes/NorthDevonandCornwall/AtlanticCoast.sh... for some good more recent routes including the newly developed crag at Com Head which has a 2* Littlejohn VS.

Don't be put off necessarily by the lack of stars or omission from Rockfax - the latter is only a Selected Climbs. There are many excellent 1 and 2* routes in impressive surroundings. Journey to Ixtlan, Touch The Earth, Silver Dollar and Rotwand (boldish on the top pitch) at Gowla. If you're happy to abseil then do P1 of Eroica, no less an authority than Ken Wilson has been quoted as saying it's well worth doing in its own right. At Pepper Hole Little Robert is a gem of a route.

Finally, satisfy that itch and just get exploring - that's what the Atlantic Coast is all about!

In reply to Iain Peters:
Cheers Iain - that's kind of what I thought (and wanted to hear). I'll get out and do a bit of poking about with the 2000 CC guide and the links's you've posted. I do like a quiet crag with a bit of adventure so this area sounds right up my street.

All the best,

Ian

In reply to oscaig:

The Black Walls area of Carn Gowla has some excellent routes on very good rock at your grade:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=1628
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=1627

Finding good anchors and abseiling in the right place could be a bit of a challenge, so make sure you can climb back up a rope given the worst case scenario.

In reply to oscaig:

Ditto what's been said above.

I've climbed at Butter Hole; it was ok as long as you're happy with the chossy top-outs and the place-your-own-stakes belay method (I haven't been there for a few years so I'm not certain this hasn't changed, but I've not heard of any stakes being put in so expect to have to do this yourself).

I would climb there again if I was passing but there are more venues in the area that I would visit first.

I've always thought the CC Guide is a bit stingy with stars in this area too, but if you read though the route descriptions it's usually possible to pick out some fantastic routes without worrying too much over stars.

Have a good time.