UKC

crevasse rescue / ropeman question

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 Kelcat 23 Jun 2012
Hi All, hope I can explain my question.
I'm roped up for crossing glaciers, coils on & tied off. Instead of bringing the rope back down to my tie in loop alignment with a screwgate or a prussik, could I do it with a ropeman, thus effectively having it already in place should I fall in. My thinking is that the small length of slack rope this creates would let me put on a prussik for a foot loop quickly & hopefully this set up would be quick & efficient.
Are there any errors I've missed, or (constructive) comments,
Cheers, K
birdman 23 Jun 2012
In reply to Kelcat:

Pretty Kosha to me mate, we were shown that on a military alpine meet by the guides. Much easier to take in rope or let more out with the rope man than prussic which can release over time and its ready to clip straight into an anchor sytem if your pal falls down a crevasse as well.
 Will Sheaff 23 Jun 2012
In reply to Kelcat:

Is there not a concern with a toothed grabbing device like a ropeman stripping the sheath if shock loaded?

Will
 AdrianC 23 Jun 2012
In reply to Will Sheaff: You can have it on the rope but with it's attachment to your belay loop slack so that the ropeman is not loaded if you fall in.
In reply to Kelcat: saw a number of guides in the alps using a similar system but with the kong version of the ropeman.
birdman 23 Jun 2012
In reply to higherclimbingwales:

Sorry i should have mentioned they were all using Kongs... don't know what a rope man 2 is like, but i think the new version is basically the same as a Kong duck!

I think that in a crevasse fall situation it isn't really a shock load as the fall is absorbed by rope stretch, the other person not being a skid anchor and probably being taken off their feet and gradually arresting the fall and the rope cutting into the snow and thus the shock in parted on the rope man / Kong Duck / prussic would be small (i think).
Andy Perkins 23 Jun 2012
In reply to Kelcat: Hi K.
I am an IFMGA guide and I use this system frequently in serious crevasse terrain. I link the ropeman to my rope loop with a 15cm quickdraw and 2 snaplinks, one of which is a DMM Revolver, which can be used for any hauling that might have to be done later.
Regards
ANDY P
OP Kelcat 24 Jun 2012
In reply to Kelcat: Thanks guys, another example of UKC at its best
 Rick Asher 30 Jun 2012
In reply to Andy Perkins: Hi Andy, can you confirm, are you connecting the ropeman quick draw onto your rope "belay loop" or onto the excess rope loop present once coils have been tied off?
Another question, is a ropeman suitable to be used as the main "pulley/holding device " on the main anchor, or would this device be unsuitable due to excessive resistance?

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