UKC

I picked up some rock rings second hand on here (and very nice they are too) and downloaded the Metolious training guide. Has the design altered since this was created? The guide says the bottom pocket is a 3 finger pocket, I don't have the largest fingers in the world and there's not a chance I could jam 3 in there. Has it changed in recent models?

In reply to Kieran_John:

Yes the design has changed, the pockets in the new one (Rock Rings 3D I believe) are substantially smaller than the old design. 2 finger pockets now on the bottom as you say.

In reply to Quiddity:

Thanks, I thought perhaps my fingers were just freakishly swollen and I'd never noticed.

Makes their 10 minute routine that little bit harder. Anyone any good recommendations for exercises on rock rings? Just after something to keep me occupied when I can't get out.

In reply to Kieran_John:

The rock rings training guide isn't very good IMO for a few reasons chief amongst which is that there isn't in built progression - you can either do one of the chosen routines or you cant. They are adequate to train on though - just base it on a more progressive training plan.

In reply to Kieran_John:

Their 10 minute plan suffers a bit from being a bit prescriptive (do X reps of this, then Y reps of that) without giving you any particular rationale or individual tailoring. It's probably better than doing nothing or doing something totally unstructured but it's not very good.

I totally recommend buying 9/10 climbers or having a read of Dave Macleod's training blog or the Beastmaker web site, where you should be able to pick up enough of the principles of finger strength training to put together your own plan tailored to your own weaknesses. Have a look at 'repeaters' or a 'max hangs' protocol for finger strength training to get you started. Lock offs (eg. frenchies, assisted one arm locks, travelling pull ups, etc.) or weighted pull ups, assisted one arm pull ups, etc. should cover you for arm shoulder strength if that is something that holds you back.

In reply to Quiddity:

Weird you should mention 9 out of 10 climbers, just before logging on here I was looking for a copy of the book (and spotted one had been sold on the FS sub-forum). Definitely something I'll be getting.

I'm REALLY bad at slopers which I'm practicing at the wall and on the fingerboard I have in the garage but they're not something I can practice on the rings (unless I'm missing something!)...

The rock rings are in such a more pleasant place to train though and I can just throw myself on them in the morning or before lunch or when I have any spare time at all. I tend to only use the fingerboard when I have a spare 30 mins (and only when it's not raining and cold!).

My arm strength is ok for the grade I'm climbing but it's definitely something I need to improve if I want to progress so thanks very much for the advice. I need to improve finger strength in general I think, I struggle to even stick on the 2 finger pockets for anything over 5 seconds (though that's partially because my knees are quite literally 2cm off the ground given the rings are a little low!).