/ UKC Fit Club week 278

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seankenny - on 14 Jul 2012
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (277) thread:

Okay Fit Clubbers, huddle round. A lot of posters weren’t really feeling the love last week. Don’t get too hung up on it. It happens. Go bake a cake, read a book, do yoga, whatever. Remember, what biscuit said is is true – crap conditions and time pressures make it hard to get into the groove. Learning to get up routes when you’ve one chance in a fortnight, a month, a summer, that’s a skill in itself. I guess if this soaked sponge of a summer teaches us anything about climbing, it should be this.

Hope everone’s feeling a bit better this week. Early posting as I'm not sure when I'll be in tomorrow night.

Kevster – Hope your psyche returns, despite being stuck indoors.
Markez – Caldwell Burns will be good, but careful with any power tools you pick up.
Joughton – Have a great trip to Canada!
Grubes – Glad you enjoyed China. Regale us with tales of weird food and strange customs.
Si dH – Enjoy CakeWeek and hope you got back on the case this week.
Seankenny – Sean stop being a pussy and tick that 7a.
Leon – Pads and spotters beat a broken ankle any day, and you still get the tick.
JimmyKay – Good effort on the running and the tagine.
Liz j – good effort on getting out.
Ian Bell – Keep WIBLing, get strong and show Portland who’s the man.
Migs493 – Sorry to hear about the shoulder. I’ve had the same injury, it’s a pain but it DOES clear up. Get a good physio and do all the exercises.
NMN – That’s some impressive fell running. Good luck with the knee.
AJM – Isn’t it funny how mojo returns after an easy week?
Biscuit – you might not be feeling your best but at least you know what you have to do to get back on it. Go forth!
Quiddity – Two sessions in one day, excellent. Shame the weather isn’t playing ball tho. Incidentally, how did you learn to deadlift? Did someone show you, or was it a YouTube vid?
Nomics4sale – Keep the faith man. What’s holding you back on this redpoint? Is it tactics, or fitness?
Mattrm – Climbing includes the choss as well as the sublime. Sometimes you gotta kiss a frog.
Nik Jennings – I think you should post your baby workout video on Mumsnet.
Ali – Wear your sunburn with pride. If you need some falling practice come down the Westway sometime, I need it too.
Eagle River – Good work on getting on the only dry rock on the crag.
Eric9Points – Excellent to hear your wrist is better, and some good mileage there.
IainRUK – We’re not worthy, etc etc.
Ayuplass – Sometimes we have weeks like that. At least you did *something*.
Stone_donkey – Nice one on the 6b, pushing your grade in style is always satisfying. Getting the flow is what we climb for, or should be. Get a few more under your belt and start to think about 6b+
MrCowdrey – A good week’s training. Enjoy Holland!

markez on 14 Jul 2012
In reply to seankenny: Didn't bake a cake, but ate 4k~5k cals of homemade icecream and mincepies in the last 2 days... anyway...

123's Improved this week, as has CB, health improving from its last low. Last FB session very easy, forcing me to put some 2 finger hangs in, though mid 2 just seems to be miles ahead of the game - dunno how to split that up... monos ? - scary !

Quiddity - Re: FB improving over a session. I found this too when I was climbing more (FB weak to strong), so could be mental fatigue at start till you get into it - now that I climb very little I am going the other way (FB strong to weak).
Keendan - on 15 Jul 2012
In reply to seankenny:

Thanks Sean

Just passing through as I have a bit of time at a computer.

I haven't had a chance to pull on any small holds for a week now. I expect I have improved through recovery but will probably start to decline unless I make repeater sessions on door frames.

One good thing is the US Air Force have put a good pull up bar in every stair well. I've decided to do a set every time I go and come back from a meal.

4-6 sets a day of 12-15 reps (so far)

We'll see if I can get to 20 good reps by the end of my stay!

Kevster - on 15 Jul 2012
In reply to seankenny:

Thanks Sean,

Weather is still hitting me in the nuts, though I know I shouldn't complain. I think I just need to be outside for one day a week or I get cabin fever. Was supposed to paragliding on Sat, seems we are not the only ones that summer is affecting.

Climbing wise, nothing outdoors this week.
Tues: Indoors easy session but enjoyed.
Sat: Quick session.
Today: Heading to the Reach today. Hoping to get good tickage of harder routes, maybe spend some time on high 7s or I believe they have an 8a too.

Next week: Indoors probably once, weather needs to pick up for the weekend. Plan on going to either pembroke or the pass - collect some low E numbers and many stars is the plan.

Cheers, Kev
liz j on 15 Jul 2012
In reply to seankenny:
Had a good week, wed was a 5.5 mile offroader that was very wet underfoot, infact, upto the mid thigh wet in places so no idea of time but it wasn't slow!
This morning was just over 8.5 miles in about 1.15 which included some pretty decent hills as well, that was a roadrun.
Have entered a half marathon in 2 weeks, pretty sure I'll get the distance now, not worried about time.
biscuit - on 15 Jul 2012
In reply to seankenny:

Cheers Sean.

Well i finally got back climbing this week. It's been 6 weeks ish since i tried anything meaningful and longer than that since i got on anything with a 7 on it i think.

M - rest
T - 30 min run and swimming
W - climbing - twice
T - swimming and core
F- climb and run
S - nothing due to monster hangover
S - core and run and db complexes

Climbing was good. Wed a.m. went to Cauche and told my partner i needed an easy day due to testing out my elbow. It went: 7a, 7a+, 7b+, 7c+/8a, 8a+/b, 6b warm down. Nice easy day then - not. I top roped them all except the 6b and i gibbered my way up that but got it clean. My head is not strong and hidden holds on an overhang didn't help. Elbow was fine though and i have my target route for next year - supertiri. It's a V6 in the sky. Totally the opposite of what i am working towards this year and i like the idea of keeping the LTG's mixed up. Unfortunately i've injured a pulley on the minging crimps. Fortunately it's in my left little finger so doesn't really count ;0) It is very sore though but i am taping it up out of the way.

It was great to get on routes in the 8's for the first time and feel that yes they are bloody hard but they're not anything to be afraid of.

Wed p.m. i went out with some friends and did some easy on-sighting around 6a-6b.

Friday i climbed with a good talented lad who's in the area for the next couple of weeks. On-sighted a couple of routes and then failed on a 6c+. No falls but slumps at the bolts due to having no courage. My route reading has gone and so has my ability to spot footholds. All stuff to work on over the next few weeks.

I now have a plan of action due to my 3 main regular partners having now all promptly buggered off on hastily arranged road trips due to the heat. They're not back until end of August.

STG: roughly six weeks to end of August

FALLING PRACTICE - at least 1 fall each session. Not a slump an actual going for it above a bolt fall.

BF 10% - currently 13% despite my best efforts this week.I need to get running every day again.

Lots of easy on-sighting building back up to regular 6c+ on-sights - concentrate on accurate feet and not over gripping.

Core 3x a week - 500 moves a week + mix of crunches, dishes, planks, lower levers and V ups

Dumbell complexes 3x a week

PE training at El Torcalito 2ce a week. I have the makings of a 'circuit' to mimic Cenizo the 7c i want to climb. Split into 4 sections matching the nature of the climb which has 3 distinct sections split by rests.

I am going to reassess where i am at with Cenizo in September after the PE training. I am certainly weak at the moment and i feel i may do a fingerboard and boulder phase for 4 - 6 weeks before a final PE push for Cenizo.

Cenizo 7c in December
Resident Evil - another 7c. Supposed to be awesome and my mate says it's easy. I don't agree but at least he can give me beta for it.


Supertiri in 2013 ( soft 8a)
Vas de pro - 8a+/8b

Not the most scientific of training plans but i've always failed with proper periodised training in the past as motivation has gone up and down so i am going for prioritising pe, then strength then pe again.

Long post sorry.
Eagle River - on 15 Jul 2012
In reply to seankenny:

Thanks for taking over sean,

Goals: 7b+ by the end of the year, Hasta Luego Luca at Loja, 2nd 5th of traverse at Craig Y Longridge.

Back indoors after a week off bemoaning the weather.

Mon: bouldering at westview, did a V6 and V7 then tried all the V8s with no success at all. Left elbow felt really tweaky so I stopped after about an hour and a half.

Wed: Routes indoors, fairly good session, scraped my way up a 7b I failed on previously, fell off everything else but was pushing myself.

Elbow can no longer be ignored, I had a couple of weeks of doing a lot of indoor bouldering which has angered it somewhat. To complement that injury I yomped up to Red Pike from Buttermere yesterday which really angered an old Iliotibial Band injury so i feel a bit crocked at the moment. I also appear to have missed a weekend when Kilnsey was pretty dry by going to the Lakes for non-climbing purposes, that is pretty annoying. Hopefully out on rock next weekend and might try to sneak out to CYL if it's dry but first and foremost are injury prevention exercises for elbow and ITB. Joy of Joys.
Eagle River - on 15 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit:

P.S. out to stay with the in-laws probably 2nd week in october, coming over with another climbing friend and have my eye on Loja so hopefully catch you there (I'm bringing a knee pad!).
AJM - on 15 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Sounds like a bit of a mental day! Good to see you've got plans lined up.

Another week of ticking over for me really. I actually made a bit of an effort to do pushups and stretching (I'm as flexible as an iron bar!) the start of the week. I got one evening session in, which to be honest was cold and unproductive. I got on Driller Killer, a 7c way up above the road. Dogged up it and did a bunch of the moves. Still got a few to work out though.

It's a route I want to have another go at - it basically climbs almost all the hard bit of a 7b+ (got a move or 2 to figure out on this bit), then does a few more tricky moves across to a massive jug (didn't quite get a sequence), then some easier ground, then a boulder problem crux at the top which I need to work on. Put like that it doesn't really sound like I made much progress! It was cold though and there was some really flat light, which made it really hard to spy footholds on the faceted rock. But anyway, worth another look.

Had our summer BBQ last night which undid a weeks worth of diet control, so I've been a bit zoned out so far today (bed at 4!) but will try and do something before the end of the day. Got another non-climbing weekend coming up, then can get back on it properly, got a few weekends of climbing in a row planned late July and through August.

biscuit - on 15 Jul 2012
In reply to Eagle River:

I ignored mine and it didn't end well so you're doing the right thing for sure.

Nothing planned yet for October so i will do my best to keep it free. Be interesting to see how i fare on HLL as a stepping stone for Cenizo.
grubes - on 15 Jul 2012
In reply to seankenny:
> Grubes – Glad you enjoyed China. Regale us with tales of weird food and strange customs.
Cheers sean. I will not go into details but I did eat some "interesting" things. One was bee's in the lava form (maggotts), lot of stuff I did not ask what it was ... You either eat or go hungry I was glad to get to the hotel in Suzhou with the "western" restaurrant.

STG (end of Aug):
RP Mr bluesky
E1 onsight
Climb E2/3
Climb on Slate
MTG (end of 2012):
onsight 6c
No major injuries
Do some sea cliff's
Do some DWS
LTG (June 2013):

M: Rokt 3 hours(ish). Bouldered and lead on the main wall. Climbed very badly. Probably due to jet lag, tiredness, illnes or generally having a bad day
T: Rest
W: Rest
T: Leads wall 4 hours. Bouldered about to warm up. I tried to lead on the main overhangs did not go so well. I need to work on my stamina endurance and technique.
F: Rest
S: Rest
S: Almscliff. Lead VS and HVS. lead dogged VS (crack of doom due to not feeling up to Great western). Second HVS. Tried to tick the 3 classic HVS's great western, Overhanging groove and demon wall. did not go so well.

Next Weeks goals:
Work on leading overhanging climbing.

I did a lot of over hanging climbing this week taking it easy on the finger. It is what I need to work for catalunya in march. I think now is a good time to start?
liz j on 15 Jul 2012
In reply to seankenny:
Should add, on top of my run this morning, I have also ridden my horse for 3 hours, walked the dog for one and am now finally sat down!! Feel like I've had an alpine climbing day!!
Kevster - on 15 Jul 2012
In reply to liz j:

To add to my previous post.
reach today, quite pleasing. Lots of routes.
Tried the 8a, would go, did all the moves except one, which would need a little practice.
Besides that, clean tick 7b+ and each half grade down to 6b.
Finished with a quick boulder, sooooo weak bouldr wise,

First time in ages it feels like i had a real work out indoors. So all good!

Cheers, kev
NMN - on 15 Jul 2012
In reply to seankenny:

Thanks for doing the stats sean.

STG: Snowdon Race - beat last years time.
Cuillin Ridge Traverse - 2 day attempt. - Tick
Just to get out climbing again (struggle to run and climb, running has won for the last 2 years or so).

MTG: Ben Nevis Race - beat last years time.
Get back to regularly onsighting VS / HS.

LTG: Push trad grade.
High Peak Marathon

M - 2.09m treadmill, 14.8%.
T - nothing.
W - 3.25m hills, 2,024ft.
T - 3.31m hills, 2,057ft; routes at Stanage Popular.
F - nothing.
S - nothing.
S - 5.73m hills, 3,514ft.

Another good week for ascent, injury free again.
Really enjoyed doing routes at Stanage on Thursday, beginners grades to get back in to things, because other than in Skye it is just under a year since I last put a rope on!
Snowdon race next Saturday. I don't feel as fit as last year but am hoping because I had problems on the day last year that I might be able to beat last years time.
migs493 - on 15 Jul 2012
In reply to seankenny: Hi Sean thanks for taking up the Fit Club.

Managed to get to Stanage to-day and despite the injured shoulder did a few routes without too much trouble. Also started a year long joint challenge to climb all the HVS routes on Stanage - should be fun.

M - Run 40 mins
T - Caving 2 hrs
W - Run 30 mins
T - Weights & Core Stab 30 mins
F - Run 45 mins
S - Caving 3 hrs
S - Routes trad - Stanage

Also been doing daily rehab exercises for the shoulder.
Si dH - on 15 Jul 2012
In reply to seankenny:
Cheers Sean. Cakes not really cricket when trying to keep my weight low! Although I did eat some the other day as my wife had been on a baking spree...

Short term goals (spring/summer):
- maintain weight at just below 11 stone **currently 11 stone 3**
- Tick off a good list of E2s including Darius **so far this year done Savage Messiah, Black Wall Eliminate, Erasmus, Soyuz, Armageddon, Scoop Wall, Darius and The Strand**
- Do a High Tor E3 and one or two others on limestone **none yet**
-Start working towards 7c pyramid - **for progress see below**

Medium term goals (autumn):
- Grit E3
- Complete 7c pyramid (8*7a+, 4*7b, 2*7b+, 1*7c) **now need 2*7a+, 2*7b, 1*7b+ and 1*7c**

Long term goals (2013):
- Tick 7c in France or Spain
- Multiple grit and limestone E3s

M: Bouldering at Alter Rock. Short session, not bad - mostly traversing for stamina I think (struggling to remember).
T: Nothing - got wedding gifts delivered! Cue lots of unpacking and putting away.
W: Nothing - further putting away and using some stuff
T: Bouldering at Alter Rock. Good session, felt strong. I'm bouldering indoors quite well at the moment.
F: Drive to Gogarth after work
S: Gogarth. Great day - seconded Emulator, led The Strand and then did Gogarth (let the 5a and 5b pitches). I hadn't slept at all Friday night due to abeing abysmally cold in my cheap sleeping bag (Shakey - if you ever read these threads I want my down bag back!) and my body just hit a wall half way up the top pitch - had to fight really hard. In comparison the Strand was really steady. All great routes.
S: Gogarth. Did The Gauntlet at Upper Tier (seconded the main pitch) then went to do Atlantis/True Moments/Freebird at Castell Helen but Tom was knackered after the first pitch so we escaped straight up from the ledge (VS-ish). The Atlantis pitch I led was great, about HVS 5a and just really nice.

Had a good weekend at Gogarth, didn't do anything desperately hard in terms of technical or powerful, but feeling very tired now! The approach and exits from Main Cliff & Upper Tier really take it out of you. Pleased with performance on The Strand. Ate pretty well too so have lost 2 pounds over the weekend.

Si dH - on 15 Jul 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Get some one-armer training in Dan!
Eric9Points - on 15 Jul 2012
In reply to seankenny:

Monday: rest
Tuesday: Bouldering wall, predictably unimpressive performance.
Wednesday: Run with a couple of hill laps on Arthur's Seat. 5.5 miles 800ft
Thursday: nothing
Friday: Gym, upper body and stretching
Saturday: Beinn Dorain, Beinn a' Chuirn, Beinn Mhanach, Beinn a' Chreachain, Beinn Achaladair, Beinn an Dothaich. 20 miles, 8000 ft. 7.45 hours. Not a great time but reasonably pleased with performance.
Iwan - on 15 Jul 2012
In reply to seankenny:

Sa. Climbing at Holyhead Mountain
Su. Climbing aborted due to rain, went for a short walk instead
Mo. Moved 300 engineering block to front garden using pinch grip. Tidying up and exercise combined!
Tu. Evening at the climbing wall
We. Rest day
Thu. Chest and biceps day at gym
Fri. Back and triceps plus a 5 mile run along canal bank
Ian Bell - on 15 Jul 2012
Sport - Englands Dreaming (7a+), Victims of Fashion (7a+), Pump Hitler (7a+), Shakin like a leaf (7a). Tried all of these in the past so would be good to RP them.
Trad - Sloth (HVS), Both of the unconquerables (HVS & E1), Vector (E2).

MTG - (end of July) - at least 2 of the trad routes and at least 2 of the sport routes. Trad road trip goal not no happening as off to the Alps for some multipitch.

LTG - end of year - all of the goal routes. Also climb an (any) E3 and RP 7b+ in Kalmynos end of Sep

T - WW some routes, a couple with a mate who was waiting for someone and then auto belay. Stamina not great but now restarting routes again in prep for Kalymnos in 2 months.

S - Portlnd. Didn't get there till 1pm. Warmed up then OS new 6b+. Then RP Sacred Angel (7a). Tried it 2 years ago and it felt desperate. This time got it 2nd go and it felt easy. One go on Pining for Glossop (7a) which was good. Do-able but was gettig tired and it started raining. Went to climbing group party, drink / dance to 2.30am.

S - decided the drinking / dancing was not ideal preperation for another session on Zinc Oxide Mountain. Repeated 6b+ clean for warm up. RP 6c+, day dream believer (started it thinking it was last rose of summer). Got it 3rd go, would have been second but pulled off a large chunk of a hold 2nd go and then followed it downwards!

Very succesful weekend with 7a & 6c+ and both fairly easily. Think the bouldering has made me stronger, I followed my 2 week ago commitments to RP more sensibly (Sean - you can tell Duncan he was right) and I obviously need to drink heavily the night before to climb better!

Psyche suitably restored.

mattrm - on 15 Jul 2012
In reply to seankenny:

Thanks for doing fit club seankenny. It was a combined 30th/60th/90th birthday party for me, my dad and my grandad yesterday, so lots of cake consumed.

Continuous - Shoulder / knee rehab / ankle strengthening
STG - Consolidate VS (2nds DONE | 7/10 leads), 11st 12lbs, 6a onsight.
MTG - Lead HVS, 11st 9lbs
LTG - Lead E1, 11st 7lbs
VLTG - Lead E2, maintain weight - 11st 12lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs

Weight - 12st 4lbs - DQS is ok this week, but not being as rabid.

M - Rest
T - ITBS Stretches
W - Exercise & Stretches
T - ITBS Stretches
F - Exercise and Stretches
S - ITBS Stretches
S - 1 hour indoor bouldering

Done a lot of ITBS stretching this week. Hopefully it'll go ok when I get out to the Alps next week. Heading out to Saas Grund on Friday. Really looking forward to it. Aiming for the Duofourspritz as the main goal, but hopefully going to get on the Lagginhorn and Weissmeis. Bouldering went well on Sunday, got a V2 on the steep board, which was nice. Tried a v3 as well, not anywhere near, but it's good to be starting on them. Glad to be getting back to last years highpoint, but sad that it's taken till over halfway through the year to get there.

However the last bit of house stuff is getting going. We've nearly got a new bathroom and kitchen done. Once that's done, we've got the house mainly finished. Which will mean more time to get out climbing and walking. Finally!

Seriously thinking of sorting out some technique coaching, but not sure whether to do with what the local walls offer, or to try out one of the various people who offer coaching. However most of them aren't based anywhere near South Wales. The idea of having to trail over to London or up North every few months doesn't entirely appeal.
Curious Yellow - on 15 Jul 2012
In reply to Ian Bell:
Hello! Good work on Sacred Angel, me and Quiddity were on Pining for Glossop - nice to meet you/figure out who you are
JayK - on 15 Jul 2012
In reply to seankenny:

Sat in bed and it's just started raining again. Was debating on trying to get out climbing tomorrow but that idea has been shelved.

Steady week as far as they go.

M- Leading at RP. Routes up to 7a+
T- Gym Session
W- Hill running session. Pretty good going.
T- Lazy day
F- Leading at RP. Fell off a 7c a few times. Close to doing it despite not climbing very efficiently at the moment. I feel good on the wall just a bit shit at reading moves.
S- Work
S- Work followed by a short speed/track session with a steady 5K warm up/cool down jog either side.
JayK - on 15 Jul 2012
In reply to Curious Yellow:

What did you think of Pinning for glossop? I did that some time ago and remember it being sharp and pretty hard. Although I'd only be climbing about 10months! Sacred Angel was much easier!
Quiddity - on 16 Jul 2012
In reply to Ian Bell:

Hello! Nice to put a face to a name. Well done on Sacred Angel, you dispatched it pretty easily and were looking pretty strong and bouldery on it. It looked like with all the bouldering you should be ready for those harder routes - eg. England's Dreaming should be a path for you now?
grubes - on 16 Jul 2012
In reply to Eagle River:

Hi Mate,

Early forcast says that saturday looks okay but thats a 7 day forecast and everyone know how accurate that is.
Let me know if you and need a belayer. Keen for some limestone.
Give me a shout if your keen.
Nomics4sale - on 16 Jul 2012
In reply to seankenny:

Morning. Thanks seankenny, good pep talk there in the huddle. And about last week, after I read biscuit, AJM, grubes and mumsnet man Nik's responses I realised I was having a bit of a whinge about nothing really. And then I had a bit of talking to by email (in a good way) from Nik. All of which made me realise that actually things aren't going badly at all.

And funnily enough I baked a cake. As you know it is the solution to all of life's woes. Banana and walnut for me. Very tasty even if I do say so myself.

STG: lead E1, RP 7a+
MTG: do trek
LTG: lead more E1s and 6c/+'s

Mon: got my arse kicked at rockover bouldering. Failed to tick any V4s.
Tues: 6 mile run forest of bowland
Wed: 5 mile run Pendle Hill
Thurs: Ingleton circuits
Fri: nowt
Sat: White Ghyll, onsight lead Slip Knot (VS 4b) and Laugh Not (HVS 5b); 2nd Waste Not want Not (E1 5b).
Sun: very windy Crookrise, onsight lead 2 x VS, 2nd HS.

Week started off with low motivation but I had a really good weekend climbing. Didn't bother about grades, took it easy and had a good craic.

Really pysched for the weekend, planning a long one in Pembroke. Subject to weather of course.
Nomics4sale - on 16 Jul 2012
In reply to grubes:

how was Almscliffe yesterday? We were going to go there but everyone said it would be too windy. Doesn't sound like that was a problem? We were getting blown off routes at Crookrise.
Nomics4sale - on 16 Jul 2012
In reply to Si dH:

that's a fantastic list of ticks at Gogarth. The Strand looks amazing.
grubes - on 16 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:
> (In reply to grubes)
Really good day out. Much better than my last attempt at trad there (2years+ ago)
It was windy but not too bad climbed there in much worse.

The wind only bothered me topping out overhanging groove when my chalk bag inverested and I lost all my chalk. nothing to worry about.

Randomly saw Nik there too he was doing a session

> We were going to go there but everyone said it would be too windy. We were getting blown off routes at Crookrise.
oh dear someone saying they think almscliff will be too windy and went to crookrise instead oO ... genious :D .. (no offence to the person who suggested it)

The advantage of alsmcliff is the mutliple directs and levels the low man area can be brassic and brezy but then demon wall can be nice. or if the wind is coming from the east you can climb on the west face or vica versa

Have fun at pembroke its amazing! Also don't worry about the weather too much as my mate told us repeatedly it has a micro climate and some times can be nice when everywhere else is shit. (i.e. most of the country flooded/drowned, I got a sun tan)
Nomics4sale - on 16 Jul 2012
In reply to grubes:
yeah I was pysched for Almscliffe, wanted to have a go at Great Western too. Ah well, it's not going anywhere.

Catalunya, is it all overhanging there? I might have to start doing some overhanging wall stuff too in preparation. Think I'll leave it till winter tho, March is a long way away....
Nik Jennings - on 16 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:
I wonder what I would have suggested you climb if I'd seen you at the cliff...
Nomics4sale - on 16 Jul 2012
In reply to Nik Jennings:

Great western??
Nik Jennings - on 16 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:
To start with, then Z Climb Eliminate then maybe Black wall Eliminate.
grubes - on 16 Jul 2012
In reply to Nik Jennings:
Black wall eliminate looks amazing but not sure the cows would of agreed they had taken over that area watching a mental dog chasing a stick all day.

At least the dog kept the people on demon wall roof entertained between goes

In reply to Nomics:
Almscliff is amazing but you do not get any gifts .. I have been there 4 times.
1st visit (2009 I think) visit warmed up on a low man area fired out some VD, HVD's and S's to warm up. Then went for traditional climb VS completely spanked (was prety confident at VS then) psyche killed. Could not second a HS after that.
2nd visit (dec 2011) finally went back bouldering. Ticked loads of 5's and Low 6's great day out.
3rd visit (may 2012) Bouldering injured my finger warming up.
4th visit yesterday. Warmed up on VS would get HVS on the eastern edges imo, overhanging groove felt right have done easier HVS's though. Great western psyched myself out of it. Demon wall wish I had tried to lead it awesome. Not as bad as I was expecting but I like slopers.

I believe catalunya has every angle but a lot of overhanging stuff.
Sure plenty of people on here have been and can tell us more. This looks good http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3709

With my finger at the moment steep and juggy is the way to go for me. and its working a weakness
hokkyokusei - on 16 Jul 2012
In reply to seankenny:

Missed last week because I was off walking and camping in the Lake District. Had a great week, the weather was almost ideal - not too sunny, the rain pretty much restricted itself to the evenings and the occasional poor visibility was a great chance to improve my navigation. Went from Windemere up through Ambleside, over to Wasdale Head, up to Keswick and then back down to Ambleside, mainly camping along the way.

m - running 5.23 km
t - cycling 5.58 km, 5.59 km
w - running 6.81 km
s - walking 24.59 km (Windermere to Stickle Tarn)
s - walking 11.68 km (Stickle Tarn to Angle Tarn)
m - walking 14.11 km (Angle Tarn to Great Gable)
t - walking 19.96 km (Great Gable to Keswick)
w - walking 24.16 km (Keswick to Grisdale Tarn)
t - walking 10.90 km (Gridsale Tarn to Ambleside)
s - Running 5km (Bradford parkrun)

Ian Bell - on 16 Jul 2012
Hi, good to meet you 2 as well and put faces to fit club names!

I find Englands Dreaming a lot harder though. The reach across on the first crux still feels like a long way for me. Maybe a few more tactical efforts will yield results, last time I did try it on day 2 after killing myself on day 1 which was maybe not ideal.
Quiddity - on 16 Jul 2012
In reply to seankenny:

> Okay Fit Clubbers, huddle round. A lot of posters weren’t really feeling the love last week. Don’t get too hung up on it. It happens. Go bake a cake, read a book, do yoga, whatever. Remember, what biscuit said is is true – crap conditions and time pressures make it hard to get into the groove. Learning to get up routes when you’ve one chance in a fortnight, a month, a summer, that’s a skill in itself. I guess if this soaked sponge of a summer teaches us anything about climbing, it should be this.

Word. How we progress in climbing is not just about how we perform on the good days but how we deal with those periods where everything seems to be going wrong - I need to learn from this as much as anyone...

> Incidentally, how did you learn to deadlift? Did someone show you, or was it a YouTube vid?

I booked a session with a personal trainer. Wasn't really confident to teach myself this one off the internet. We are fortunate enough to have a gym with free weights at The Castle - I know you get down there sometimes, I can give you contact details for the guy in question (Rich Hudson AKA Tricky) I am still at the stage of videoing every set to get feedback on my form, so still very much learning how to do the lift.

After a pretty washed out last weekend. I have managed to have quite a steady week of ticking through the low 7s. Training has taken a bit of a back seat this week but making the most of being able to get out midweek while it lasts! Really pleased to tie up some loose ends as well as discovering some awesome new routes.

After some chat on FC a couple of weeks ago, I have been having a bit of a think about weaknesses. I have a bit of an addiction to redpointing things, specifically getting them wired before I turn on full gas, both in terms of redpoint projects and boulder problems at the wall. As a result something which I feel is a strength, actually turns out to conceal quite a big weakness which is the ability to wing it - hold it together when everything feels wrong/desperate and freestyle to the top, which is a characteristic that I hugely respect in many of my peers who are the other way round (relatively stronger at onsighting than redpointing). Definitely think that addressing this would be a way to improve my onsighting and fast redpointing. Have been trying a new approach to bouldering at the wall 'comp style' - ie. having 3 goes ground up on everything before I start working it move by move. Actually surprised myself quite a lot this week but getting problems 3rd go that I would ordinarily have worked moves individually, and definitely been having that frustrating out-of-comfort-zone sensation, which I am starting to associate with meaning that I am actually working on something worthwhile.

Nightmare Scenario

STG (2012)
Tick 100 7s (45 in 2012) Done:26 +5
Finish 8a pyramid (need: 1x7b+, 1x7c, 1x7c+)
Onsight 7a+ in the UK (probably Portland given current weather)
Learn to drive

Up bouldering game - climb V8 or equivalent route crux (eg. Breathing Method crux)
Beastmaker - one arm deadhang the incut edge on F3 o/h and 4F 1/2crimp for < 3s.
Contemplate 8a+ pyramid

8b ?!

M: Castle, bouldering, focusing on weaknesses by working on various intractable problems. Ticked off some low grade nasties I've been avoiding in the Pen, and flailed on but failed to tick the red/blue V4s on the panels. Had a few goes on the blue mezz V7, getting close to sticking the crux move but not quite able to hold the swing.
T: Portland, Cuttings. Blowing The Gimp - 2 working goes then redpoints, fell off the first time faffing with a very awkward clip, managed it by skin of teeth 2nd redpoint, felt like I was off every move. Well pokey for 7a+, pleased to get it quickly. 2 top rope goes on Bend Sinister (7a+)
W: Cuttings. Bend Sinister - straight on lead, got clips in, then making RP goes. First go, fell out of readjusting the knee bar. 2nd go, got to the last hard move but fell off the tricky mantel/compression/toe hook combo. Got it clean 3rd go. Weather a bit iffy so we sacked it in favour of an early return to London and a session at the Biscuit Factory. Tried the new problems on the comp wall 'comp style', and finished up doing problems on the green circuit with the same approach.
T: Castle - boulder. Pen, soft set. Tried problems up to V6 comp style, surprised myself by getting a few problems 3rd go that I would ordinarily resort to working move by move - and then threshold bouldering the hard moves on the V7s.
S: Portland. Blacknor South, onsighting. - bit muddy and grim, felt quite psyched out in the morning. Warmed up on Lifeline and Lord Stublock, both of which felt dispiritingly desperate. Had an onsight crack on Pining For Glossop (7a) and managed to do it, which was a massive morale injection. Suitably psyched, got back on my onsight nemesis Last Rose of Summer (7a) - I have been averaging one try a summer since 2010, had to concentrate hard but managed to hold it together and get it done this time.
S: Back at Blacknor South, onsighting. Warmed up on Toe the Line and I Love The Smell of Resin in the Morning (6c), the latter being well pokey for 6c. Psyched up enough to try Chasing the Sun onsight which I thought was 7a but turns out to be 6c+ in the Rockfax which feels fair. Had another go at Step Away From The Gingga (7a), much closer to it this time but fell at the end of the crux. Got it comfortably 2nd go.
seankenny - on 16 Jul 2012
In reply to seankenny:

Glad to see the amount of cake eating, climbing and training going on, despite/because of the weather.

Goals: 7a+, E3, El Cap

M: Nothing.
T: Westway, 6a+, 6a, 6b+, 6b+, 6b, 7a (with rests), 6c (1/2 then 6a+ to the top), 6a+ 4+ down. Tired! Approx 85m of climbing.
W: Big wall practice - aiding and jumaring.
T: Nothing, late at work.
F: Out in London.
S: Resting, knackered.
S: Big wall practice in Avon - aiding, jumaring and hauling.

A good week. Starting to feel much more confident on my aiders and using jumars. It's definitely a very different skill to normal climbing, requires lots and lots of savvy and togetherness, not sure I'm there yet but starting to feel more comfortable with it all. Can't wait to be on those huge cliffs!

Also had a fairly decent session roped climbing at WW, took some falls which was good, have realised I get easily freaked out by the really steep routes there. As Nik says above, I have that out-of-comfort zone sensation when I'm there, so it's probably doing me good.

I'm a bit worried that I've not been doing enough PE training before me trip, so I just won't have the extra fitness I need for long crack pitches. I do hope to get plenty of climbing done in the coming weeks, so that should make up for it, but wouldn't mind getting as many wall sessions as possible to target exactly what I'm lacking.
Curious Yellow - on 16 Jul 2012
In reply to seankenny:
Thanks for doing the thread

Posting two weeks again to catch up - weather and injury related low psyche and slackness. Every time my elbow starts to feel better I manage to do something that makes it hurt again...

Mon - Rest.
Tues - Castle. Up to V3. Pushups.
Wedns - Arch. Up to black (V4-7). Bashed bad elbow. Pushups.
Thurs - Rest.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Watching the rain.
Sun - Blacknor South. Mmmm muddy! Couple of easy routes up to 4+. Slipped off a boulder and bashed bad elbow again.
Mon - Castle. Good session, mostly working yellows.
Tues - Rest.
Wedns - Biscuit Factory. Lots of greens. Re-twanged elbow, argh.
Thurs - Rest.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Blacknor South. 4 pitches: 6a+ and 6b+ to warm up then fell off Pining for Glossop x2.
Sun - Blacknor South. Glorious sun 6 pitches, 6b/+, 6c, 6c+, got Pining for Glossop by the skin of my teeth, fell off Step Away from the Gingga then finished the day with Burning Skies - which is brilliant, though sadly I dawdled around till I got pumped and fell off!
Si dH - on 16 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:
> (In reply to Si dH)
> that's a fantastic list of ticks at Gogarth. The Strand looks amazing.

Thanks Nomics, yes it was a great trip. I'd recommend the Strand to anyone with a bit of fitness, there are big holds all the way up, you just need to be able to shake out on jugs on a very slightly overhanging wall, and you're there. It's a really stunning line in a great position.
Curious Yellow - on 16 Jul 2012
In reply to Ian Bell:

Re: England's Dreaming, think I used a foothold as an intermediate for my left hand to help make the reach? It was a while ago though and my memory is a bit hazy. I bet you'd get it if you were fresh
Curious Yellow - on 16 Jul 2012
In reply to JimmyKay:

Heh, you'd crush it into gravel now!

I liked it, found it tough-ish but not unfairly so. Agreed it's pretty sharp but I though the moves were quite good. Didn't think much of Sacred Angel, mostly because I skinned my knuckles on the big undercut, messy!
leon on 16 Jul 2012
In reply to seankenny:
STG: Something on the main cliff @ Gogarth (failed)
MTG: Nothing
LTG(2012): 1*V8, 2*V7, 4*V6(2), 8*V5(5). Something on the main cliff @ Gogarth. Lead a 6c
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

Falls: 0(92)
Fat %: 9.4%
Focus: Maintenance (3/3)

Mon: Slate (max e2).
Tue: ARC. Repeaters.
Wed: Weights (aborted session).
Thu: ARC. 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V2). Repeaters.
Fri: Nothing.
Sat: Nothing.
Sun: ARC. Repeaters

Thanks for putting up the post this week Sean.

My low training psyche continues. I stopped the weights session very early because doing Deep Swimmers Press on the dumb bells was causing a pain in my right arm (tricep area, same pain I've had for weeks).

Didn't do any core (couldn't be bothered) & am pretty much sticking to ARC & repeaters for the fingers as I find this takes the least amount of motivation. I think I need a good nights sleep, make that 20 of them. The
only problem with that (make that two) is in the form of Max & Molly. Might try pleading with them, failing that I might start sleeping in the shed.

Went over to Gogarth on Monday to do a route on the Main Cliff but the rain was on & off so sacked it off & went to the slate. Initial thoughts were on Pull My Daisy but the guide book description (run out start, psycho
crux leaving the pipe) made me hesitant so I did a couple of other routes instead. When it was time to head off I decided that I had to give it a go or I'd be kicking myself. <BETA ALERT> It turned out to be steady and well protected where it matters, with some good climbing </BETA ALERT>.

This week I really want a sunny weekend where I do something on the main cliff, bag some hard e2s get my first e3 and then maybe top it of by onsighting 7a on the way home from work.
AJM - on 16 Jul 2012
In reply to seankenny:

Got a good reason to renew my psyche now, just sorted out a short trip to Rodellar with Ali, Curious Yellow and Quiddity of this parish...

So, what do people reckon, 8 weeks training for something about 4 times as long and twice as steep as what I'm used to!?
- Circuits on the steep circuit board
- Serious core work
- Lots of aerobic training work. Or steep pitches of trad which should have the same effect.
- Weights and pushups and stuff to help train for the whole body experience

Anything else people reckon?
biscuit - on 16 Jul 2012
In reply to AJM:

Not sure of the routes at Rodellar or what your target routes are but i find that there are a surprising amount of slopey holds and pinches on the steep routes i've come across.
biscuit - on 16 Jul 2012
In reply to Quiddity:

I think the term freestyling sums it up nicely. The ability to make do with what you've got in your hands and blasting on instead of searching for the slightly better hold that probably doesn't exist. The reason it feels hard is because you're at the crux of a route that's at your limit and you knew that before you set off so GET ON WITH IT.

I made some progress with it today and actually climbed until i fell off. Best failure i ever had.
Banned User 77 - on 16 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit:

m: am: 5 mile run. pm: 7 mile walk Ben Briachan, 1000m ascent
t: am: 9 mile run. then 10 mile bike ride. pm: 3 mile tempo run.
w: am: 5 mile run. pm: 5 mile run Arthurs seat, 3 hill reps.
t: am: 6 mile run Edinbugh airport. pm: 4 mile run tegernsee on trip to banvarian alps
f: am: 4 mile run. pm: 8 mile run 1000m ascent
s: 12.5 mile run 1250m ascent, Wallberg, from Rottach Egern + 12 miles biking
s: 14 mile run Blomberg from Bad Tolls, 750m ascent.
AJM - on 16 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit:

I've been told its more steep and blocky than tufa-y, but on the other hand those quite open-hand jugs you get on stuff like that I struggle with at steep angles anyway, so that's a good call. Need to get the guide really and start drooling!
biscuit - on 16 Jul 2012
In reply to AJM:
> (In reply to biscuit)
those quite open-hand jugs you get on stuff like that I struggle with at steep angles anyway,

That's what gets me too. I can have 4 fingers on up to the palm but as soon as i weight it i feel pumpy and insecure. I guess body position has a lot to do with it too.
AJM - on 16 Jul 2012
In reply to biscuit:

I found something similar on big flatties on overhanging ground at Venasque and I think it's because I couldn't pull inwards so was very reliant on my weak core to keep my feet on and my body pulled in.
Eagle River - on 17 Jul 2012
In reply to grubes:

Already have plans to get out on sat but you're welcome to join us, I'll drop you a text on Friday to sort it out.
grubes - on 17 Jul 2012
In reply to grubes:
> (In reply to Nomics)

Anyone have any tips for catalunya?

I am off in march just wondering what I need to work (yea I know is along time away but want to start working)
What sort of route lengths, Style of climbing (e.g. long stamina fest, bouldery caves, tufa pulling, etc),
Also are all styles of climbs covered? is their face climbing, slabs etc or is it all overhanging?
JayK - on 17 Jul 2012
In reply to seankenny:

Ladies and Gentlemen of FitClub, let's celebrate the news that summer is right around the corner.


Remember those projects which had been shelved due to the weather, it's time to re-open the account.

All aboard the send train, because next week is going to be a big week.
AJM - on 17 Jul 2012
In reply to grubes:

Where in Catalunya? I suspect it's a similar sort of question to asking "what sort of climbing is there in Wales"!
JayK - on 17 Jul 2012
In reply to grubes:

You go up Almscliffe a lot right? Do you know if Underhand dries pretty quickly after rain? Cheers.
grubes - on 17 Jul 2012
In reply to AJM:

Staying in Lleida so that sort of area.
grubes - on 17 Jul 2012
In reply to JimmyKay:
Don't really go that often .. but I have not seen it wet.
Have seen a few mates working it. Its a roof so generally should be okay pretty well shaded from the sun. Can be brassic. Take 2 / 3 pads and a spotter.

Almscliff drys fast in general. The wind can be too much but caley is only a short drive down the road to hide in the trees.
AJM - on 17 Jul 2012
In reply to grubes:

Based on what's in the Lleida climbs guide approximately everything then - that guide covers a huge range of crags and styles, and of course if you drive a little way from there you get to Montsant/Margalef/Siurana with even more variety. Maybe best to ask Nik what crags he has in mind and work off that, or just work on your worst weaknesses...
JayK - on 17 Jul 2012
In reply to grubes:

Yeah, that's what I thought. I'd probably take the Almscliffe breeze over the summer midges tbf. I'm psyched for getting on a few almscliffe classics over the weekend/start of next week.
grubes - on 17 Jul 2012
In reply to JimmyKay:
What have you done up there?
There are loads of classics in your sort of grades.

Dolphin belly slap
Demon wall roof
Stus roof left hand
underhand / extension

Easier stuff
Pebble wall
Crucifix / arete
virgin traverse

okay am psyched to go back now
grubes - on 17 Jul 2012
In reply to AJM: I have spoken to nik before, hes never been so hes happy on where ever we suggest.

Working biggest weakness is probaly the best shout more air time at leeds wall fo me then
JayK - on 17 Jul 2012
In reply to grubes:

I did Dolphin, DWR and Crucifix traverse elim years ago. Only ever been up once though in between showers. Keel looks hard, but I'll defo give that a go, that as well as Jess' Roof, Matt's Roof and Underhand extension.

Not too psyched for Stu's because I don't want to lose my finger tips! All I can remember about that problem is grimness...
seankenny - on 18 Jul 2012
In reply to Nomics4sale:
> (In reply to grubes)

> Catalunya, is it all overhanging there?

Not at all, there's a real mix of things at all grades and angles.

Think I'll leave it till winter tho, March is a long way away....

Perhaps worth concentrating on what's left of the summer and seeing where you're at in the autumn?
seankenny - on 18 Jul 2012
In reply to Quiddity:
> (In reply to seankenny)

> [...]
> I booked a session with a personal trainer. Wasn't really confident to teach myself this one off the internet. We are fortunate enough to have a gym with free weights at The Castle - I know you get down there sometimes, I can give you contact details for the guy in question (Rich Hudson AKA Tricky)

Please send it over! That would be cool.
mattrm - on 19 Jul 2012
In reply to seankenny:

I'll be in the Alps (Zermatt and Saas Grund) for the next week, so will probably be unable to post. Hope the send train pulls in for all of you next week and I'll be back in a week or so.
ayuplass - on 19 Jul 2012
In reply to seankenny:
Managing to summon up a bit of motivation by focusing on up coming climbing trips and some other more 'unusual' personal goals to try to get my mojo back. My break in ingleton was good for me even if I did spend the 2 good weather days ferrying my mum and aunty around
Mon - nowt
Tues- nowt
Weds - nice evening so took camera for a walk round the woods for an hour and half
Thurs - nowt
Fri - drive to Ingleton
Sat - 35 min run around the village and lanes
Sun - 30 min run - knee feel 'crunchy' :/

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