UKC

I'm taking someone even more cowardly than me climbing this week - they've seconded a few routes at Hutton Roof before so looking for something similar. I've got the Lancashire book - would Fairy Steps or something do the job? Reckon limestone would be better than grit as they're more used to indoor holds. Strictly Mod to V Diff!

Ta

In reply to Steve John B:
Hi Steve, maybe have a look at Trowbarrow, Jomo VD***, Twentieth Century Schitzoid Man D**
Dries quickly, longer routes (30m) and scope to do something a bit harder or admire too.
Hutton roof, Farleton and Fairy steps are good and short though if they would like to try a lead.

In reply to petegunn: Thanks, 30m will be too long though!

I reckon Farleton or Fairy Steps then. Fairy Steps has the more appropriate name...

In reply to petegunn:

Jomo is a terrible suggestion for a 'coward'. It's also not very good.

Farleton is OK, but really very polished (at least the lower crag is, the upper crag isn't, but it's fairly awful). Fairy Steps is your best bet if you don't want to go back to Hutton Roof. It's in a nice setting, and there are lots and lots of easy routes there, but it isn't quite as good as Hutton Roof.

In reply to victim of mathematics: Cool, Fairy Steps it is then. Just had a quick Google and it looks quite nice in a non-climbing sense too.

Thanks!

In reply to Steve John B:

Just be aware that there have more recently been access issues from the Gamekeepers.

In reply to Steve John B:

If they get keen there is a lot more choice nearby in Yorkshire, which may make getting a guide for Yorkshire limestone worthwhile.

In reply to victim of mathematics: Yes, Jomo is a dreadful suggestion for a coward: unprotected first pitch (although it can be avoided on the left) and an intimidating, although better protected, top pitch. Having said that it's quite a good route, imho. Original Route VD is better protected, but long and with a serious feel. Barrier Reef is a softish touch at Severe, and quite short.

In reply to PeteC:

Protection isn't relevant for a second though is it? Other than the less there is, the less they have to stop and take out

In reply to bentley's biceps:

Yeah, noticed that on the logbook page. Looks like Hutton Roof after all then. I have strict instructions that it must be a short crag!

In reply to Steve John B:
Not far from there to Twistleton or Chapel-le-dale. Not been to the latter, but Twistleton is very popular as a beginners' crag.

In reply to Steve John B: you could try Tow Scar http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=8829 Very pleasant, short and climb-where-you-will at Diff to VDiff in many parts. Pick a calm day though - you'd be blown away today. More details on the Leeds Wall website.

In reply to tmawer:

Or why not head a few more minutes north and go to the Lakes?

In reply to Steve John B: How about Warton pinnacle? Nice easy grade routes about the same height as Hutton roof, and a view over the bay.

In reply to Toreador:
Chapel-le-Dale would be great for beginners, really short, and much quieter than Twistleton.

I'd second Warton Pinnacle too, I did a good chunk of my first leads between there and Hutton Roof.

In reply to petegunn: 20th C schizoid man doesn't have a single piece of decent gear till the last move.

In reply to Steve John B:

Why stick to limestone? It's notoriously rubbish in the lower grades.

In reply to Jamie Bankhead:

And if not rubbish then no match for nearby volcanics!

Warton Upper? Not been there for years, but ticked the crag when I lived that way. Some lovely sharp holds and features. The Pinnacle used to be a bit greasy as I remember.

In reply to Jamie Bankhead:

It's the most suitable rock for the person I'm taking - better than grit or borrowdale volcanic.

Cheers all for the tips.

In reply to Jamie Bankhead:

I disagree, the lancs crags mentioned are actually really good beginners cliffs, much better than grit or rhyolite. Many of the routes are off vertical and have a vast selection of holds. We took our son aged 4 to hutton roof for his first climb and it was fab. The short nature of the routes also means that exposure is not an issue. Limestone has an undeserved bad rap for lower grade routes

In reply to Dave Ferguson:

Well said, Dave. The amount of uninformed comment about limestone (or various other rock types) on here is often laughable. It's led to the virtual abandonment of some crags particularly trad limestone it seems. If you 'give a dog a bad name' often enough the credulous will believe what they're told. Personally, I've had a whale of a time on all sorts of rock - except quarried slate (now that is bad .......).
You can have a pleasant day following the sun around from Warton Upper to Warton Pinnacle even in the winter. Well, if it ever stops raining up here. I'd not bother with Farleton right now as it doesn't get sun till late afternoon and can take a while to dry being fronted by trees. Likewise Fairy Steps with dripping trees - I've heard that there are access problems on the Lower Crags but OK on the crags either side of the 'steps' themselves. I haven't been this year so can't comment personally but didn't experience anything untoward last year.