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A topic I’ve been mulling over during the last six weeks.
In mid June I fell whilst soling a micro route, missed the mat and landed on the ground instead fracturing my talus. Cue an operation to pin my talus bone back on, six weeks in plaster (due off next week!) and, I’d imagine several more weeks of rehab to come.
At first, due in no small part due to a bruised ego, all I could think of was returning to the ‘scene of the crime’ to solo the route and prove I could do it. Over the weeks, my attitude has changed. My girlfriend (who is expecting our first child in November), family and friends have all been hugely supportive and have put themselves out for me whilst I’ve been injured – trips to hospital, fetching and carrying for me etc – for which I’m very grateful.
I’m now weighing up a love for climbing with the counter-balance of the effect of further injury on those around me – especially come late November when I become a Dad. I know that I could be injured at any time doing anything but doesn’t climbing add a disproportionate (and unacceptable?) amount of risk? Is fulfilling my personal desire to get back on the rock now a selfish one?
I’d welcome all and any thoughts – especially from parents and those who have returned to climbing again after injury.
Cheers
Rob
In mid June I fell whilst soling a micro route, missed the mat and landed on the ground instead fracturing my talus. Cue an operation to pin my talus bone back on, six weeks in plaster (due off next week!) and, I’d imagine several more weeks of rehab to come.
At first, due in no small part due to a bruised ego, all I could think of was returning to the ‘scene of the crime’ to solo the route and prove I could do it. Over the weeks, my attitude has changed. My girlfriend (who is expecting our first child in November), family and friends have all been hugely supportive and have put themselves out for me whilst I’ve been injured – trips to hospital, fetching and carrying for me etc – for which I’m very grateful.
I’m now weighing up a love for climbing with the counter-balance of the effect of further injury on those around me – especially come late November when I become a Dad. I know that I could be injured at any time doing anything but doesn’t climbing add a disproportionate (and unacceptable?) amount of risk? Is fulfilling my personal desire to get back on the rock now a selfish one?
I’d welcome all and any thoughts – especially from parents and those who have returned to climbing again after injury.
Cheers
Rob
In reply to rob sykes: I'm not a parent, but pretty concerned with my safety. Why not just forgo the soloing?
In reply to rob sykes:
I'm not a parent either but am expecting to try and become one in the near future and I've thought about where I am in climbing besides that and I don't see myself pushing grade for a long time because if I get injured my ability to earn changes very drastically. So for me it's a partly financial decision based on potential cost. Also I find in my relationship that I have a responsibility born out the mutual dependencies that my girlfriend and I are growing into. Those result in my being likely to become a punter at about VS (where I am currently capable on the sharp end in approach shoes).
That said I imagine myself still soloing up to about S (with caveats for route choice. I already don't solo delecate routes with balance moves, etc etc). Once a child has started being cooked the possibility of very tough times for a poor and fatherless child is too great for me and I'll be consigned to tours of big easy mountain routes, low grade scrambles, classic grit VSs (classic because I'll be making the most of less frequent outings) and teaching if the opportunity arises and I have the time to offer to it.
Having typed that off the cuff I am looking at it and thinking that actually, if I am an average Joe, we appear to have very specific ideas of acceptable risk. I'm happy with my own position. I hope that you are happy with the decisions that you make and good luck with the recovery.
I'm not a parent either but am expecting to try and become one in the near future and I've thought about where I am in climbing besides that and I don't see myself pushing grade for a long time because if I get injured my ability to earn changes very drastically. So for me it's a partly financial decision based on potential cost. Also I find in my relationship that I have a responsibility born out the mutual dependencies that my girlfriend and I are growing into. Those result in my being likely to become a punter at about VS (where I am currently capable on the sharp end in approach shoes).
That said I imagine myself still soloing up to about S (with caveats for route choice. I already don't solo delecate routes with balance moves, etc etc). Once a child has started being cooked the possibility of very tough times for a poor and fatherless child is too great for me and I'll be consigned to tours of big easy mountain routes, low grade scrambles, classic grit VSs (classic because I'll be making the most of less frequent outings) and teaching if the opportunity arises and I have the time to offer to it.
Having typed that off the cuff I am looking at it and thinking that actually, if I am an average Joe, we appear to have very specific ideas of acceptable risk. I'm happy with my own position. I hope that you are happy with the decisions that you make and good luck with the recovery.
In reply to rob sykes: 6 weeks? try 5 months..
I fell off in the alps in sept '09 and broke L3+4 in my back climbing pointe de zinale. I was off work for 5 months barely able to move and drugged up to my eyeballs. Parents and wife had look after me and run me to physio sessions and help gett me dressed (couldn't even get socks/pants on). I had a further year of mostly inactivity due to continued pain. However, then knuckled down to getting myself fit. I went back to the alps and climbed 3 4000m+ peaks in a week 18 months after the accident and was in font 20 months after (ok only yellows/oranges). I haven't gone back to that mountain yet....
this was in the first year after getting married
I'm still game for more, however, my wife's a little less understanding after the recent avalanch on mont maudit - which was one of the peaks i've climbed (via kuffner ridge).
As you can tell from the above, mine (and by the sounds of it yours) was a simple (if painful) accident. It's not detracted from my desire to climb, enjoyment of the outdoors or any part of what makes me - me. About the only thing that has been noticable is my newfound intrest in my fitness and health. Having just done my first Mountain marathon most of my mates who knew me before accident knew that i'd prefer a 5 min walk-in rather than a 7hr run across 15 mountains, with a return trip the next day!
Climb on
I fell off in the alps in sept '09 and broke L3+4 in my back climbing pointe de zinale. I was off work for 5 months barely able to move and drugged up to my eyeballs. Parents and wife had look after me and run me to physio sessions and help gett me dressed (couldn't even get socks/pants on). I had a further year of mostly inactivity due to continued pain. However, then knuckled down to getting myself fit. I went back to the alps and climbed 3 4000m+ peaks in a week 18 months after the accident and was in font 20 months after (ok only yellows/oranges). I haven't gone back to that mountain yet....
this was in the first year after getting married
I'm still game for more, however, my wife's a little less understanding after the recent avalanch on mont maudit - which was one of the peaks i've climbed (via kuffner ridge).
As you can tell from the above, mine (and by the sounds of it yours) was a simple (if painful) accident. It's not detracted from my desire to climb, enjoyment of the outdoors or any part of what makes me - me. About the only thing that has been noticable is my newfound intrest in my fitness and health. Having just done my first Mountain marathon most of my mates who knew me before accident knew that i'd prefer a 5 min walk-in rather than a 7hr run across 15 mountains, with a return trip the next day!
Climb on
In reply to rob sykes:
Injuries will always mess with your head, and in my experience so does having kids.
When my first was almost here and during her first year, my head was incredibly shaky when climbing, and I was much more risk averse than I usually am (and I am reasonably cautious normally). However, I have regained my lead head now, but still won't take large risks that I may have done in the past. For example, while I will still lead big run outs and boulder, I wouldn't solo anything or choose routes with groundfall potential any more as the rewards don't match the potential risks now that I have a family. I also climb far less than I used to, but don't resent it in any way, apart from it bugs me a little that I have lost fitness. In fact I even sometimes have the chance to go climbing and choose not to, which I never would have expected.
However, climbing has been a big part of my life for many years and makes up part of who I am. Quitting completely is not an option I would like to consider. It fulfills several roles in my life which influence how I am the rest of the time. For example, I once gave up climbing for a period to concentrate heavily on my studies, and my performance actually dropped. Starting climbing again (at a reduced rate) brought my performance back up again.
In the end, I think it comes down to how you feel and how it affects you. Everything is a balance, and if you feel that you need to shake the monkey off your back by doing that route again it may be best to do it. Or it may not. Only you can really answer that question.
Injuries will always mess with your head, and in my experience so does having kids.
When my first was almost here and during her first year, my head was incredibly shaky when climbing, and I was much more risk averse than I usually am (and I am reasonably cautious normally). However, I have regained my lead head now, but still won't take large risks that I may have done in the past. For example, while I will still lead big run outs and boulder, I wouldn't solo anything or choose routes with groundfall potential any more as the rewards don't match the potential risks now that I have a family. I also climb far less than I used to, but don't resent it in any way, apart from it bugs me a little that I have lost fitness. In fact I even sometimes have the chance to go climbing and choose not to, which I never would have expected.
However, climbing has been a big part of my life for many years and makes up part of who I am. Quitting completely is not an option I would like to consider. It fulfills several roles in my life which influence how I am the rest of the time. For example, I once gave up climbing for a period to concentrate heavily on my studies, and my performance actually dropped. Starting climbing again (at a reduced rate) brought my performance back up again.
In the end, I think it comes down to how you feel and how it affects you. Everything is a balance, and if you feel that you need to shake the monkey off your back by doing that route again it may be best to do it. Or it may not. Only you can really answer that question.
In reply to rob sykes: Glad to hear you have recovered physically. One qualifies as per requirements. If you love your climbing, just go and do it. One would not be one if one did not climb, if that's any help. Just one's reaction. There will be others who differ. To want to go back and sort the route out and prove you can do it is just a normal reaction. Good luck.
In reply to rob sykes:
As above, I would say climb on but, yes, be aware of risk and cut out the soloing (as you found out, it's a numbers game).
Normal trad can be as safe as almost any other type of sporting activity if you limit your risks. Clearly, so can sports climbing. Just be very safety conscious; who wants to die young anyway?
As above, I would say climb on but, yes, be aware of risk and cut out the soloing (as you found out, it's a numbers game).
Normal trad can be as safe as almost any other type of sporting activity if you limit your risks. Clearly, so can sports climbing. Just be very safety conscious; who wants to die young anyway?
In reply to EZ:
My sport and bouldering grades have plummeted, but my trad grade has been fairly stable since I have had kids. I think that I now choose my objectives more carefully, and don't put things off as I have very limited time.
Definitely agree about the classic thing - in the past I used to just rock up at a crag and see what I fancied. Now, I will check the guide and choose a selection of 2 and 3 star routes to try. I rarely climb stuff without stars any more, unless I have done the starred routes at the crag already.
> (In reply to rob sykes)
> Those result in my being likely to become a punter at about VS (where I am currently capable on the sharp end in approach shoes).
> Those result in my being likely to become a punter at about VS (where I am currently capable on the sharp end in approach shoes).
My sport and bouldering grades have plummeted, but my trad grade has been fairly stable since I have had kids. I think that I now choose my objectives more carefully, and don't put things off as I have very limited time.
> I'll be consigned to tours of big easy mountain routes, low grade scrambles, classic grit VSs (classic because I'll be making the most of less frequent outings)
>
>
Definitely agree about the classic thing - in the past I used to just rock up at a crag and see what I fancied. Now, I will check the guide and choose a selection of 2 and 3 star routes to try. I rarely climb stuff without stars any more, unless I have done the starred routes at the crag already.
In reply to rob sykes:
I was going to post something not entirely unrelated to this post.
I am only a boulderer and I have 2 kids. I've been boulding for maybe a year and a half so I'm not entirely rubbish. The other day I went up a few trees in the park. Only about 3-4m high. The first two, no complaint from the missus. The third one involved a bit of heel hooking along the branch and a grab for the frisbee thing I had thrown up there.
On the way home I was treated to a blazing row about how I dont care about her or the kids, that she doesn't wanna be my carer, that we're getting life insurance, that I was showing off etc.
Bearing in mind that I practice the art of climbing stuff it kinda blew my mind that using a skill I practice should be so badly perceived despite the fact I didn't even have an accident. The only risk was a 3m fall onto grass with about 4 spotters watching what I was up to.
I think different partners are always gonna have different ideas of what is and is not selfish. At the end of the day the only thing you really have to consider is whether your girlfriend will understand your reasons or just think you're a selfish git. Physical injury is one thing but ballsing up your relationship can be a lot harder to mend if they think you climb out of selfishness and/or that you resent them for caring. Trying to compromise with respect to what you do and don't do from this point on is likely to rest firmly in the hands of those that will be scooping you up. Sadly sometimes you have to just exist in a mindset of worst case scenarios just to keep the peace.
I was going to post something not entirely unrelated to this post.
I am only a boulderer and I have 2 kids. I've been boulding for maybe a year and a half so I'm not entirely rubbish. The other day I went up a few trees in the park. Only about 3-4m high. The first two, no complaint from the missus. The third one involved a bit of heel hooking along the branch and a grab for the frisbee thing I had thrown up there.
On the way home I was treated to a blazing row about how I dont care about her or the kids, that she doesn't wanna be my carer, that we're getting life insurance, that I was showing off etc.
Bearing in mind that I practice the art of climbing stuff it kinda blew my mind that using a skill I practice should be so badly perceived despite the fact I didn't even have an accident. The only risk was a 3m fall onto grass with about 4 spotters watching what I was up to.
I think different partners are always gonna have different ideas of what is and is not selfish. At the end of the day the only thing you really have to consider is whether your girlfriend will understand your reasons or just think you're a selfish git. Physical injury is one thing but ballsing up your relationship can be a lot harder to mend if they think you climb out of selfishness and/or that you resent them for caring. Trying to compromise with respect to what you do and don't do from this point on is likely to rest firmly in the hands of those that will be scooping you up. Sadly sometimes you have to just exist in a mindset of worst case scenarios just to keep the peace.
In reply to parberoo:
..and everyone else who's replied. thanks for all the replies. it's good to know that there are folk who feel similar and also to read some points of view that i'd not considered before. a common theme seems to be 'balance'. something i clearly failed at before I fell off.
i'm definitely not ready to hang up my gear just yet so i guess i'll see how it goes.
cheers all
rob
..and everyone else who's replied. thanks for all the replies. it's good to know that there are folk who feel similar and also to read some points of view that i'd not considered before. a common theme seems to be 'balance'. something i clearly failed at before I fell off.
i'm definitely not ready to hang up my gear just yet so i guess i'll see how it goes.
cheers all
rob
In reply to EZ: that's interesting. I found after having kids I was less inclined towards routes with high degrees of objective danger, I.e out of my control.
In reply to rob sykes:
I've been in your boat - talus fracture, expecting partner etc.
I found that my partner got used to me being injured and (more importantly) around the house so that when the wee one was born I was more useful (even on crutches) than if I'd been back at work.
The long lay off from activity hasn't ended yet - I'm due another op in the autumn. I have climbed a little but, to be honest, I prefer spending my time with the baby - they're only wee once and they do grow fast.
Enjoy parenthood when it comes.
I've been in your boat - talus fracture, expecting partner etc.
I found that my partner got used to me being injured and (more importantly) around the house so that when the wee one was born I was more useful (even on crutches) than if I'd been back at work.
The long lay off from activity hasn't ended yet - I'm due another op in the autumn. I have climbed a little but, to be honest, I prefer spending my time with the baby - they're only wee once and they do grow fast.
Enjoy parenthood when it comes.
In reply to rob sykes: Really only started climbing after having children. I do claim that I dont take much rish because I am a dad, but in reality, I dont want to get hurt.
I'll only ever be a punter, but happy and healthy so thats not so bad.
I'll only ever be a punter, but happy and healthy so thats not so bad.
In reply to rob sykes:
Hi Rob, interesting thread, hope you enjoy being out of plaster!
I became a dad a year and a bit ago and it has certainly affected my climbing. As far as risk-taking goes I think I am at about the same level that I was, the same part of my brain that I can use to turn off the fear of “oh it is a long way down, oh the last piece of gear is a long way away” I can use to turn of the “you have a family relying on you” thoughts too – or perhaps not turn them off just acknowledge them and then mute them. Like EZ above lack of time means that I have reconciled myself for the moment to VS punterdom, but hey there are several lifetimes worth of VSes in the world to go at! I have found myself doing more bouldering too – it is easier to fit in with family holidays, and general family life as you don’t need a partner or hours of faffing with gear and ropes (is there a parallel argument here that it is also conducive to soloing for the same reasons? I have felt the pull a couple of times and had to give myself stern talking tos) Although I do retain goals they are generally more flexible and I don’t have the time or the inclination to obsess over particular routes, the primary goal these days is to get out and get on rock when I can, everything else is secondary!
I am always acutely aware that climbing is something I do for my own satisfaction, especially as time off for climbing has to be bargained for much harder now than it did in the past, indeed I sometimes think my wife and I are in a spin-cycle of everlasting climbing negotiations. It is time away from the family and does carry risks that would affect the family if an accident occurred. Having said that it does also benefit the family – I am a happy healthy chap and some of the places we go to and things we do are a direct result of a lifestyle which includes climbing. Many of our most cherished family photos are from trips to the mountains and moors e.g. Dartmoor, Snowdonia and Lundy, even though there was minimal amounts of climbing done on these trips! While I don’t want to bring the wee one up as a 100% climber (a friend once remarked “I don’t bring my kids climbing – it is when I get out by myself for a laugh and a few brews with my mates”) I do hope that in years to come we will share some great times out and about scrambling and perhaps climbing together. It also gives me time to de-stress and recoup my own equilibrium meaning that I can deal with the inevitable stresses and strains of family life in a calmer more positive way than perhaps otherwise.
I can’t help but feel it is something in my blood and I would not be me if I did not do it. That doesn’t mean I have to take insane risks or sacrifice my family life to do it, again it comes back to striking a balance. I think you’ll find yourself doing a lot of that over the coming years – good luck!
Hi Rob, interesting thread, hope you enjoy being out of plaster!
I became a dad a year and a bit ago and it has certainly affected my climbing. As far as risk-taking goes I think I am at about the same level that I was, the same part of my brain that I can use to turn off the fear of “oh it is a long way down, oh the last piece of gear is a long way away” I can use to turn of the “you have a family relying on you” thoughts too – or perhaps not turn them off just acknowledge them and then mute them. Like EZ above lack of time means that I have reconciled myself for the moment to VS punterdom, but hey there are several lifetimes worth of VSes in the world to go at! I have found myself doing more bouldering too – it is easier to fit in with family holidays, and general family life as you don’t need a partner or hours of faffing with gear and ropes (is there a parallel argument here that it is also conducive to soloing for the same reasons? I have felt the pull a couple of times and had to give myself stern talking tos) Although I do retain goals they are generally more flexible and I don’t have the time or the inclination to obsess over particular routes, the primary goal these days is to get out and get on rock when I can, everything else is secondary!
I am always acutely aware that climbing is something I do for my own satisfaction, especially as time off for climbing has to be bargained for much harder now than it did in the past, indeed I sometimes think my wife and I are in a spin-cycle of everlasting climbing negotiations. It is time away from the family and does carry risks that would affect the family if an accident occurred. Having said that it does also benefit the family – I am a happy healthy chap and some of the places we go to and things we do are a direct result of a lifestyle which includes climbing. Many of our most cherished family photos are from trips to the mountains and moors e.g. Dartmoor, Snowdonia and Lundy, even though there was minimal amounts of climbing done on these trips! While I don’t want to bring the wee one up as a 100% climber (a friend once remarked “I don’t bring my kids climbing – it is when I get out by myself for a laugh and a few brews with my mates”) I do hope that in years to come we will share some great times out and about scrambling and perhaps climbing together. It also gives me time to de-stress and recoup my own equilibrium meaning that I can deal with the inevitable stresses and strains of family life in a calmer more positive way than perhaps otherwise.
I can’t help but feel it is something in my blood and I would not be me if I did not do it. That doesn’t mean I have to take insane risks or sacrifice my family life to do it, again it comes back to striking a balance. I think you’ll find yourself doing a lot of that over the coming years – good luck!
In reply to rob sykes: the way I view risk is that if your aware your in the game, you are safer, many people die everyday in accidents and are not even aware that its coming there way.
how do you know that while your climbing a mountain it might be the safest place to be?
If your alive its a risk,non risk takers are not necessarily any safer, I suppose the caveat is that, If you take risks and do not understand the dangers
how do you know that while your climbing a mountain it might be the safest place to be?
If your alive its a risk,non risk takers are not necessarily any safer, I suppose the caveat is that, If you take risks and do not understand the dangers
In reply to Voltemands:
Quite. No point throwing the baby out with the bathwater when you can enjoy lower risk forms of climbing such as tradclimbing well within your ability, lowball bouldering, sport climbing, seconding and S0 deep water soloing.
> (In reply to rob sykes) I'm not a parent, but pretty concerned with my safety. Why not just forgo the soloing?
Quite. No point throwing the baby out with the bathwater when you can enjoy lower risk forms of climbing such as tradclimbing well within your ability, lowball bouldering, sport climbing, seconding and S0 deep water soloing.
In reply to shark: Depends how hard you solo and what you trad climb: why not just tackle stuff thats less serious. DWS I'd guess is a lot more risky than soloing 10m crags well within your grade.
In reply to rob sykes:
At the end of the day, there is something grand about being in a relationship and seeing your loved one come home after a day doing what they enjoy with a big smile on their face. You can minimise the risk you take by only leading / top roping routes rather than soloing them. You will also find you minimise risk because once your little one comes along you won't have as much time to climb. No need to give it up though. You could get knocked over by a bus tomorrow.
> I’m now weighing up a love for climbing with the counter-balance of the effect of further injury on those around me – especially come late November when I become a Dad. I know that I could be injured at any time doing anything but doesn’t climbing add a disproportionate (and unacceptable?) amount of risk? Is fulfilling my personal desire to get back on the rock now a selfish one?
At the end of the day, there is something grand about being in a relationship and seeing your loved one come home after a day doing what they enjoy with a big smile on their face. You can minimise the risk you take by only leading / top roping routes rather than soloing them. You will also find you minimise risk because once your little one comes along you won't have as much time to climb. No need to give it up though. You could get knocked over by a bus tomorrow.
In reply to EeeByGum:
and shark and off width
i totally agree. i may get back to where i was but i may also have to lower my sights a little and play it safe with my choice of routes but i'm fine with that. looking back, whilst i've had fun pushing my grade, some of my most enjoyable days have been on (very) low grade routes. i'm more than fine with more of the same.
an injury / parenthood is also an opportunity to try something new - open water swimming etc.
but as you and others have said, climbing can be an intrinsic part of what makes someone happy - to deny someone something that puts a smile on their face completely seems a bit draconian. i suppose it's a case of cutting your cloth accordingly.
and shark and off width
i totally agree. i may get back to where i was but i may also have to lower my sights a little and play it safe with my choice of routes but i'm fine with that. looking back, whilst i've had fun pushing my grade, some of my most enjoyable days have been on (very) low grade routes. i'm more than fine with more of the same.
an injury / parenthood is also an opportunity to try something new - open water swimming etc.
but as you and others have said, climbing can be an intrinsic part of what makes someone happy - to deny someone something that puts a smile on their face completely seems a bit draconian. i suppose it's a case of cutting your cloth accordingly.
In reply to rob sykes:
Watch out for sharks!
> (In reply to EeeByGum)
>
an opportunity to try something new - open water swimming etc.>
>
Watch out for sharks!
In reply to rob sykes: Hi Rob, I've got a 4 week old who's ruling the roost at the minute and I've found I've not had the time to do anything (helping the missus, lack of sleep etc). I've put things on hold for a while and I've decided to do the complete opposite from my usual and once I'm up and runing to do more wild camping as I don't want to put myself in a situation where I could injure myself and put more pressure on the misuss.
Within time I'll build myself back up and will return climbing (mountaineering) when I find it suitable but weighing up all the options I think it'd be best to be over cautious especially during the first few months.
Within time I'll build myself back up and will return climbing (mountaineering) when I find it suitable but weighing up all the options I think it'd be best to be over cautious especially during the first few months.
In reply to rob sykes:
My kids are now in late teens and off to Uni/travelling and so I can see this from coming out of the other side of having children as it were.
I have been spouting this theory for a few years to my mates now in that during the years of parenthod it just is not easy pushing your limits.
Now I am sure there are a whole range of reasons for this - tiredness being a major one! But there is definitely something around lack of risk taking that kicks in - I was even getting scared on fairground rides fgs.
Now it feels as if I am regaining my appetitie for pushing myself again and I defintielt think this has something to do with te age of the kids.
Cheers
My kids are now in late teens and off to Uni/travelling and so I can see this from coming out of the other side of having children as it were.
I have been spouting this theory for a few years to my mates now in that during the years of parenthod it just is not easy pushing your limits.
Now I am sure there are a whole range of reasons for this - tiredness being a major one! But there is definitely something around lack of risk taking that kicks in - I was even getting scared on fairground rides fgs.
Now it feels as if I am regaining my appetitie for pushing myself again and I defintielt think this has something to do with te age of the kids.
Cheers
In reply to JonC:
I don't think climbing entails that much risk, especially in comparison to stuff like mountain biking and skiing. The great thing about climbing is that feels dangerous but the chances of anything bad happening a really pretty slim. I'm not advocating focusing your climbing on highball bouldering with only one crap pad and no spotters, but I would say don't throw the baby out with the bath water, because as others have said, there's loads of climbing to be enjoyed with little risk of injury. And you're much better off going climbing than skiing if you want to stay out of hospital.
> (In reply to rob sykes)
>
> As above, I would say climb on but, yes, be aware of risk and cut out the soloing (as you found out, it's a numbers game).
>
As someone who does a lot of soloing, I don't accept that. I've never hurt myself soloing, and that's from soloing up to my lead grade (nominally, of course the actual routes aren't as hard as stuff I'd lead), often around 15-20 routes, several times a week in the spring.>
> As above, I would say climb on but, yes, be aware of risk and cut out the soloing (as you found out, it's a numbers game).
>
I don't think climbing entails that much risk, especially in comparison to stuff like mountain biking and skiing. The great thing about climbing is that feels dangerous but the chances of anything bad happening a really pretty slim. I'm not advocating focusing your climbing on highball bouldering with only one crap pad and no spotters, but I would say don't throw the baby out with the bath water, because as others have said, there's loads of climbing to be enjoyed with little risk of injury. And you're much better off going climbing than skiing if you want to stay out of hospital.
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Well thats a good point - even in view of my post above I have never stopped climbing. I solo quite alot also but I was talking about pushing the limits.
I can solo at Burbage for example on pretty easy but exciting stuff when I dont want to push it.
So dont stop climbing - just change your focus for a bit.
Well thats a good point - even in view of my post above I have never stopped climbing. I solo quite alot also but I was talking about pushing the limits.
I can solo at Burbage for example on pretty easy but exciting stuff when I dont want to push it.
So dont stop climbing - just change your focus for a bit.
In reply to rob sykes:
I am currently having a massive re-appraisal of my climbing lifestyle. Until a few months ago I loved gnarly trad, loose rock, soloing near my personal limit, you know 'manly' climbing. I only went sport climbing cos I needed to get fitter to climb more exciting routes. I only bouldered in the winter cos it was too cold to stand around belaying. I never thought I'd ever consider stopping. I even used to mock (in a friendly jovial manner of course) my friends who only ever bouldered, despite them being obviously way stronger than me.
That all changed a few months ago when my missus f**ked herself up. Now I have a paraplegic girlfriend who I deeply love and care for I'm not prepared to take the risk at all. We simply can't afford to have two cripples in the house. Okay, eventually she'll be pretty much self-sufficient but for now she needs me a lot more than I need to exercise my ego.
I've been climbing a handful of times since her accident. Bouldering at Anston stones was terrifying, the thought of pinging backwards off those low roofs and ending up in the hospital bed next to her was just too much. Climbing steep multi-pitch felt a lot safer(after the first pitch anyway), even at a crag as loose as Wintour's. Can't be arsed with Grit anymore, too many routes with groundfall potential in what I call 'the cripple zone' between 25 and 50ft where the consequences of a fall are potentially worse than death.
I'm just going to go sport climbing now. And some big easy trad. And take the climbing blinkers off and find other sports that we can do together. It's not been an easy decision to make, but that's what I'm doing.
In a way I think my situation is kind of similar to having a baby to look after - all of a sudden you aren't no.1 anymore. Little milestones become more important than any piece of rock - the first time they manage to roll over and bum shuffle, the first time they poo on a toilet on their own, their first steps (I'm dreaming now, that's highly unlikely for us).
Incidentally, my girlfriend also broke her talus years ago - bouldering at Pex when she missed her mat. The recovery was so long and slow that it totally changed her attitude to climbing. Despite leading 6c/7a on bolts and following me on E5's, she'd back off Vdiffs if she thought there was the slightest chance of getting hurt. She always complained that her heel was never put back together correctly, it was at slightly the wrong angle and affected her running and yoga. At least she ain't bothered by her heel now!
I am currently having a massive re-appraisal of my climbing lifestyle. Until a few months ago I loved gnarly trad, loose rock, soloing near my personal limit, you know 'manly' climbing. I only went sport climbing cos I needed to get fitter to climb more exciting routes. I only bouldered in the winter cos it was too cold to stand around belaying. I never thought I'd ever consider stopping. I even used to mock (in a friendly jovial manner of course) my friends who only ever bouldered, despite them being obviously way stronger than me.
That all changed a few months ago when my missus f**ked herself up. Now I have a paraplegic girlfriend who I deeply love and care for I'm not prepared to take the risk at all. We simply can't afford to have two cripples in the house. Okay, eventually she'll be pretty much self-sufficient but for now she needs me a lot more than I need to exercise my ego.
I've been climbing a handful of times since her accident. Bouldering at Anston stones was terrifying, the thought of pinging backwards off those low roofs and ending up in the hospital bed next to her was just too much. Climbing steep multi-pitch felt a lot safer(after the first pitch anyway), even at a crag as loose as Wintour's. Can't be arsed with Grit anymore, too many routes with groundfall potential in what I call 'the cripple zone' between 25 and 50ft where the consequences of a fall are potentially worse than death.
I'm just going to go sport climbing now. And some big easy trad. And take the climbing blinkers off and find other sports that we can do together. It's not been an easy decision to make, but that's what I'm doing.
In a way I think my situation is kind of similar to having a baby to look after - all of a sudden you aren't no.1 anymore. Little milestones become more important than any piece of rock - the first time they manage to roll over and bum shuffle, the first time they poo on a toilet on their own, their first steps (I'm dreaming now, that's highly unlikely for us).
Incidentally, my girlfriend also broke her talus years ago - bouldering at Pex when she missed her mat. The recovery was so long and slow that it totally changed her attitude to climbing. Despite leading 6c/7a on bolts and following me on E5's, she'd back off Vdiffs if she thought there was the slightest chance of getting hurt. She always complained that her heel was never put back together correctly, it was at slightly the wrong angle and affected her running and yoga. At least she ain't bothered by her heel now!
In reply to rob sykes:
I had an injury 9 years ago which put me on crutches for 6 weeks. I was climbing again before I could walk without them. Until about 4 years ago I would happily push on lead until I fell off, or solo 3 grades below my lead grade.
Now I don't want to do anything thats reasonably dangerous and I have not lead for a couple of years......
I had an injury 9 years ago which put me on crutches for 6 weeks. I was climbing again before I could walk without them. Until about 4 years ago I would happily push on lead until I fell off, or solo 3 grades below my lead grade.
Now I don't want to do anything thats reasonably dangerous and I have not lead for a couple of years......
In reply to simon kimber:
Wow, sorry to hear about your other half. I presume she stuffed herself climbing? Very though provoking contribution to the topic.
Wow, sorry to hear about your other half. I presume she stuffed herself climbing? Very though provoking contribution to the topic.
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