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OK, so I picked up my first road bike today, a Kinesis racelight, compact chainset, other things which as yet are only words to me.
Those who advised on what to carry will be glad to hear I opted for a saddle pack with one inner tube, puncture patches, a tyre lever, emergency fiver and house keys. Attached the pump to the frame, carried nothing in the road jersey pockets. No food. One bottle in cage.
Clothing was an area of terror. It feels so exposed, out there in lycra shorts, short sleeved road jersey, and what's more, back in the clip ins.
But I have questions. There seem to be a lot of options of places to put hands. I could have the words wrong but I'm going with drops, hoods and maybe flat / straight bits. I've opted to rest hands on the hoods so I can reach brakes and gears. Is this normal? Why do the balls of my thumbs ache? I wear mitts on the MTB, do road riders wear mitts?
Also, clearly I am not a proper road rider because I am not in touch with the weather gods. I went out in jersey and shorts and sunglasses, and it rained. Which brings me to the next question. What do I do now - I mean, the bike's wet. Are there particular bits I should be drying, and should I now be oiling it? The MTB pretty much always needs thorough washing and judicious oiling.
The man in the shop gave me advice I have instantly forgotten re getting saddle height right. If my bum slightly rocks (we're not talking cataclysmic side to side here) do I need to raise the saddle?
Thank you!
Those who advised on what to carry will be glad to hear I opted for a saddle pack with one inner tube, puncture patches, a tyre lever, emergency fiver and house keys. Attached the pump to the frame, carried nothing in the road jersey pockets. No food. One bottle in cage.
Clothing was an area of terror. It feels so exposed, out there in lycra shorts, short sleeved road jersey, and what's more, back in the clip ins.
But I have questions. There seem to be a lot of options of places to put hands. I could have the words wrong but I'm going with drops, hoods and maybe flat / straight bits. I've opted to rest hands on the hoods so I can reach brakes and gears. Is this normal? Why do the balls of my thumbs ache? I wear mitts on the MTB, do road riders wear mitts?
Also, clearly I am not a proper road rider because I am not in touch with the weather gods. I went out in jersey and shorts and sunglasses, and it rained. Which brings me to the next question. What do I do now - I mean, the bike's wet. Are there particular bits I should be drying, and should I now be oiling it? The MTB pretty much always needs thorough washing and judicious oiling.
The man in the shop gave me advice I have instantly forgotten re getting saddle height right. If my bum slightly rocks (we're not talking cataclysmic side to side here) do I need to raise the saddle?
Thank you!
In reply to AlisonSmiles:
Hand positions - most people will know what you mean, don't worry about it. The most popular position these days seem to be "on the hoods", like you say, easy to get to gears & brakes. Basically whichever is most comfortable. Obviously the most aerodynamic is on the drops but it takes a bit of getting used to.
Cleaning the bike: same as for an MTB. Use dry lube to avoid (well lessen) the build-up of grime on the drivetrain.
Saddle height: start point is with straight leg and heel on the pedal when it is at the lowest point.
ALC
Hand positions - most people will know what you mean, don't worry about it. The most popular position these days seem to be "on the hoods", like you say, easy to get to gears & brakes. Basically whichever is most comfortable. Obviously the most aerodynamic is on the drops but it takes a bit of getting used to.
Cleaning the bike: same as for an MTB. Use dry lube to avoid (well lessen) the build-up of grime on the drivetrain.
Saddle height: start point is with straight leg and heel on the pedal when it is at the lowest point.
ALC
In reply to a lakeland climber: Dry Lube eh? I'll add it to the shopping list ...
In reply to AlisonSmiles:
I would carry 2
More weight on your hands on a road bike due to lower bars
Just leave mine in the garage to dry
Lower it I would think if your hips are rocking, how straight do your legs get?
>
> one inner tube,
> one inner tube,
I would carry 2
> Why do the balls of my thumbs ache? I wear mitts on the MTB, do road riders wear mitts?
More weight on your hands on a road bike due to lower bars
> What do I do now - I mean, the bike's wet. Are there particular bits I should be drying, and should I now be oiling it?
Just leave mine in the garage to dry
> The man in the shop gave me advice I have instantly forgotten re getting saddle height right. If my bum slightly rocks (we're not talking cataclysmic side to side here) do I need to raise the saddle?
Lower it I would think if your hips are rocking, how straight do your legs get?
In reply to AlisonSmiles:
Best tip I had recently was a mix of GT85 and a few drops of wet lube for the chain. Stops that icky build up of stuff.
I found that a good pair of mitts helped - numb fingers in my case, but affects ball of thumb too - different gloves induce a cramp sensation in the ball of my thumbs.
Best tip I had recently was a mix of GT85 and a few drops of wet lube for the chain. Stops that icky build up of stuff.
I found that a good pair of mitts helped - numb fingers in my case, but affects ball of thumb too - different gloves induce a cramp sensation in the ball of my thumbs.
In reply to AlisonSmiles:
Yes, it's one of the advantages of drop bars. You will probably spend longer stints on a road bike than an mtb so it's good to have options that will allow you to slightly change your posture if you get a bit stiff in one.
In general, most people spend the majority of time 'on the hoods', it's generally the most relaxed and comfortable posture.
When climbing a hill, it's often easier to sit up and put your hands on the flat of the bars, closer to you. When going downhill you may want to drop your hands on the bottom drops to reduce wind resistance...but be careful, it may be tricky to reach the brakes from here.
Really the only thing to be aware of when cleaning the bike is don't use a pressure washer
Unless you want to get into chain cleaning, get it serviced by your lbs.
Yeah, bike mits all the way.
> But I have questions. There seem to be a lot of options of places to put hands.
Yes, it's one of the advantages of drop bars. You will probably spend longer stints on a road bike than an mtb so it's good to have options that will allow you to slightly change your posture if you get a bit stiff in one.
In general, most people spend the majority of time 'on the hoods', it's generally the most relaxed and comfortable posture.
When climbing a hill, it's often easier to sit up and put your hands on the flat of the bars, closer to you. When going downhill you may want to drop your hands on the bottom drops to reduce wind resistance...but be careful, it may be tricky to reach the brakes from here.
Really the only thing to be aware of when cleaning the bike is don't use a pressure washer
Unless you want to get into chain cleaning, get it serviced by your lbs.
Yeah, bike mits all the way.
In reply to AlisonSmiles: Also get your knee over the pedal spindle when at 3 & 9 o'clock , you might need to move your saddle to achieve this.
I carry a very thin wind proof/ waterproof top , two tubes and some tyre levers
I carry a very thin wind proof/ waterproof top , two tubes and some tyre levers
In reply to AlisonSmiles:
You should be able to reach your gears and brakes from the drops, in fact most people find they have greater braking power from the drops. If you can't reach it might be worth getting some shims to bring the levers closer to the drops.
You should be able to reach your gears and brakes from the drops, in fact most people find they have greater braking power from the drops. If you can't reach it might be worth getting some shims to bring the levers closer to the drops.
In reply to Tiberius:
If that's the case you need to get some shims for the brake levers or look at your position - it should be easier to get to the levers when you're riding in the drops.
> When going downhill you may want to drop your hands on the bottom drops to reduce wind resistance...but be careful, it may be tricky to reach the brakes from here.
If that's the case you need to get some shims for the brake levers or look at your position - it should be easier to get to the levers when you're riding in the drops.
In reply to AlisonSmiles: As others have said, it's quite good to move around the different positions. At low speed on the flat I'll wrap my fingers around the hoods to hold the brakes and still be upright. At higher speed my hands will more rest on top. On steeper climbs where I'll remain in the saddle I'll bring my hands to the cross bar. For descents I'll use the drops as it feels more secure with better brake control.
It can take a bit of time to feel comfortable in some positions, and could require tweaking the bar or saddle. I also found early on I probably was slightly over-gripping causing discomfort in my hands and arms, but with time and improved bike handling I relaxed my grip and balanced more through my core, so although in theory more weight is over the bars I don't load my arms heavily (sprinting and steep climbing excepted).
I always wear mitts on the bike.
It can take a bit of time to feel comfortable in some positions, and could require tweaking the bar or saddle. I also found early on I probably was slightly over-gripping causing discomfort in my hands and arms, but with time and improved bike handling I relaxed my grip and balanced more through my core, so although in theory more weight is over the bars I don't load my arms heavily (sprinting and steep climbing excepted).
I always wear mitts on the bike.
In reply to climbingpixie:
Tell me more about these shims - I also can't reach the brakes when hands in the drops
> (In reply to AlisonSmiles)
>
> You should be able to reach your gears and brakes from the drops, in fact most people find they have greater braking power from the drops. If you can't reach it might be worth getting some shims to bring the levers closer to the drops.
>
> You should be able to reach your gears and brakes from the drops, in fact most people find they have greater braking power from the drops. If you can't reach it might be worth getting some shims to bring the levers closer to the drops.
Tell me more about these shims - I also can't reach the brakes when hands in the drops
In reply to Pids:
Basically they're bits of plastic that can be fitted into your brake levers to reduce the reach. Probably worth speaking to your local bike shop about it. My bike came with the brakes already shimmed as it was a women specific bike and I have no problems reaching the brakes from the drops despite being fairly stubby fingered.
Basically they're bits of plastic that can be fitted into your brake levers to reduce the reach. Probably worth speaking to your local bike shop about it. My bike came with the brakes already shimmed as it was a women specific bike and I have no problems reaching the brakes from the drops despite being fairly stubby fingered.
In reply to Liam M:
I'm wondering if I'm over gripping. I'm used to having to try to maintain some kind of contact with the handlebars on the mountain bike over interesting ground. I guess the road bike I'm less likely to find my hands flying off. Note to self, relax.
I'm wondering if I'm over gripping. I'm used to having to try to maintain some kind of contact with the handlebars on the mountain bike over interesting ground. I guess the road bike I'm less likely to find my hands flying off. Note to self, relax.
In reply to AlisonSmiles:
Definitely loosen the grip and keep the arms relaxed, most of the time they shouldn't be doing much.
You will also improve your mountain biking if ride with "soft" hands rather than the death grip.
Definitely loosen the grip and keep the arms relaxed, most of the time they shouldn't be doing much.
You will also improve your mountain biking if ride with "soft" hands rather than the death grip.
In reply to Horse:
Heaven knows my mountain biking has room for improvement. Off to the Pyrenees with the MTB mid September ...
Heaven knows my mountain biking has room for improvement. Off to the Pyrenees with the MTB mid September ...
In reply to AlisonSmiles: Alison,it would be good to meet up for a gentle spin when I get out of hozzy if u fancy it.
Cheers
David
Cheers
David
In reply to AlisonSmiles: On a different subject, but reminded by that post, did I recall correctly you saying you'd be at the women's mtb this weekend? If so we'll have to keep an eye out and say hello.
In reply to sam@work:
I'm a little confused, how can your knee be over the pedal spindle at both 3 and 9? this would require magical shortening and lengthing of my upper legs!
I'm a little confused, how can your knee be over the pedal spindle at both 3 and 9? this would require magical shortening and lengthing of my upper legs!
In reply to David Hooper: Cool. With me it can't be anything other than gentle.
Liam: yes, I'll be at the women's MTB event Saturday. I have inflatable hands and my friends, if they are allowed to get them in the venue, have cow bells ...
Liam: yes, I'll be at the women's MTB event Saturday. I have inflatable hands and my friends, if they are allowed to get them in the venue, have cow bells ...
In reply to AlisonSmiles: i think we r fb friends - - I will contact you when I have imminent new about hozzy release.
Where are you based - I'm in liverpoolbut have car.
Where are you based - I'm in liverpoolbut have car.
In reply to AlisonSmiles: just post us a pic of you on your bike side on at 3-9 on the hoods..
In reply to AlisonSmiles:
This maybe why your hands are getting sore?
> (In reply to David Hooper) .
> I have inflatable hands
> I have inflatable hands
This maybe why your hands are getting sore?
In reply to Pagan:
Sorry, I probably wasn't being too clear. I just meant if you grab the end of the drops without taking note of where your hands are in relation to the brakes, you can end up gathering speed on a downhill section and suddenly find you can't reach the brakes
This really.
> If that's the case you need to get some shims for the brake levers
Sorry, I probably wasn't being too clear. I just meant if you grab the end of the drops without taking note of where your hands are in relation to the brakes, you can end up gathering speed on a downhill section and suddenly find you can't reach the brakes
> or look at your position
This really.
In reply to Tiberius: I'm so glad I didn't engage in the shims conversation. One step too far for my pea sized brain.
In reply to AlisonSmiles:
It takes a lot of daft people to make something simple complicated.
It takes a lot of clever people to make something simple complicated.
Both of these are sentences are true... ()
(Don't know where that came from by the way, probably a weekend of people trying to get organised to get somewhere I think, how hard can it be? Aarrrgghh)
It takes a lot of daft people to make something simple complicated.
It takes a lot of clever people to make something simple complicated.
Both of these are sentences are true... ()
(Don't know where that came from by the way, probably a weekend of people trying to get organised to get somewhere I think, how hard can it be? Aarrrgghh)
In reply to AlisonSmiles:
Second time out, went further, included hills. Used different bits of the handlebars and discovered that actually the drops are pretty comfortable to use, after the initial couple of times moving to them were a little jerky.
Still haven't got to grips with the weather gods or how to carry a waterproof, except by going for a ride with a man with a rucksack.
Second time out, went further, included hills. Used different bits of the handlebars and discovered that actually the drops are pretty comfortable to use, after the initial couple of times moving to them were a little jerky.
Still haven't got to grips with the weather gods or how to carry a waterproof, except by going for a ride with a man with a rucksack.
In reply to AlisonSmiles:
This idea is possibly out of date - when I lived in the UK I just took a very light (Buffalo, pertex) windproof with me for showers. On a bike you'll get wet either way, if not from the rain from the sweat of working hard in a Gore tex bag. And at least the windproof is lighter, breathes better and dries quicker. But like I say, this was valid up until about 10 years ago but I haven't really been biking in the UK since then.
> (In reply to AlisonSmiles)
>
> Still haven't got to grips with the weather gods or how to carry a waterproof, except by going for a ride with a man with a rucksack.
>
> Still haven't got to grips with the weather gods or how to carry a waterproof, except by going for a ride with a man with a rucksack.
This idea is possibly out of date - when I lived in the UK I just took a very light (Buffalo, pertex) windproof with me for showers. On a bike you'll get wet either way, if not from the rain from the sweat of working hard in a Gore tex bag. And at least the windproof is lighter, breathes better and dries quicker. But like I say, this was valid up until about 10 years ago but I haven't really been biking in the UK since then.
In reply to AlisonSmiles:
During the summer I don't bother with waterproofs. As above, I get soaked in sweat neway, so what difference does a shower make? It's only in the winter when getting wet could be cold, uncomfortable and potentially dangerous that I bother.
During the summer I don't bother with waterproofs. As above, I get soaked in sweat neway, so what difference does a shower make? It's only in the winter when getting wet could be cold, uncomfortable and potentially dangerous that I bother.
In reply to AlisonSmiles:
This is how my better half gets around weather issues.
> (In reply to AlisonSmiles)
>> except by going for a ride with a man with a rucksack.
This is how my better half gets around weather issues.
In reply to AlisonSmiles: Glad it isn't just me with sore balls of thumbs, although it seems to be settling down now.
I've been wondering, is there anything disadvantageous to moving the handlebars slightly upwards of vertical at all? I have a feeling that I may find this more comfortable as when I'm on the hoods I always feel like I'm trying to slip forwards off them and find it much more comfortable to rest on top of the gear nobbles at the top of the hood (god I need to learn this new terminology).
I'm new to all of this as well and am more used to a mountain bike position so I wonder if I just need to man up.
I've been wondering, is there anything disadvantageous to moving the handlebars slightly upwards of vertical at all? I have a feeling that I may find this more comfortable as when I'm on the hoods I always feel like I'm trying to slip forwards off them and find it much more comfortable to rest on top of the gear nobbles at the top of the hood (god I need to learn this new terminology).
I'm new to all of this as well and am more used to a mountain bike position so I wonder if I just need to man up.
In reply to lynda: It's been suggested to me that if I'm finding the drops more comfortable than the hoods (yep, hating the terminology) then perhaps taking out a couple of spacers and moving the handlebars downwards might be beneficial. I'm finding it a lot easier to brake effectively on the drops. Why don't these things have disc brakes ...
In reply to lynda:
Is you saddle level?
You could try adjusting the fore/aft position of the saddle so that your weight is slightly further back. You don't need (or want) your weight on your hands.
Another option might be a slightly angled stem or going for a bike fit session.
Is you saddle level?
You could try adjusting the fore/aft position of the saddle so that your weight is slightly further back. You don't need (or want) your weight on your hands.
Another option might be a slightly angled stem or going for a bike fit session.
In reply to AlisonSmiles:
>I'm finding it a lot easier to brake effectively on the drops.
when on the hoods do you struggle to reach around to the brake lever?
If so levers can be fitted with spacers to bring them closer to the frame, easy job the shop can do, my other half had this issue and now she is happy on the hoods as she can get her fingers on the levers easier
HTH
>I'm finding it a lot easier to brake effectively on the drops.
when on the hoods do you struggle to reach around to the brake lever?
If so levers can be fitted with spacers to bring them closer to the frame, easy job the shop can do, my other half had this issue and now she is happy on the hoods as she can get her fingers on the levers easier
HTH
In reply to AlisonSmiles:
They are coming:
http://www.bikeradar.com/road/news/article/colnago-c59-disc-exclusive-first...
http://www.colnago.com/c59-disc/
> (In reply to lynda) Why don't these things have disc brakes ...
They are coming:
http://www.bikeradar.com/road/news/article/colnago-c59-disc-exclusive-first...
http://www.colnago.com/c59-disc/
In reply to AlisonSmiles:
this time of year just use a windproof to keep the chill off, little pertex job like a Montane velo or similar, fits in jersey pocket or in your saddle bag
> Still haven't got to grips with the weather gods or how to carry a waterproof, except by going for a ride with a man with a rucksack.
this time of year just use a windproof to keep the chill off, little pertex job like a Montane velo or similar, fits in jersey pocket or in your saddle bag
In reply to AlisonSmiles:
Watch out for biking gear appearing in Aldi. I've got a lightweight rain jacket that packs small enough to fit into my back pocket. It won't stop you getting drowned, and you will sweat up when you've got it on but will keep the wind chill at bay when you get soggy.
> (In reply to AlisonSmiles)
>
>
>
> Still haven't got to grips with the weather gods or how to carry a waterproof,
> Still haven't got to grips with the weather gods or how to carry a waterproof,
Watch out for biking gear appearing in Aldi. I've got a lightweight rain jacket that packs small enough to fit into my back pocket. It won't stop you getting drowned, and you will sweat up when you've got it on but will keep the wind chill at bay when you get soggy.
In reply to lynda:
Most people I know have the handlbars twisted slightly upwards making it easier to rest on the hoods as it puts them at a better angle and slightly closer too you.
If you twist them too far, then it can be difficult to reach the breaks when on the drops coz they're pointed up. Just try it and see what you prefer.
If you do like them twisted too far up, then you probably have too long a stem, or the entire geometry of the bike is too big (long) for you.
> I've been wondering, is there anything disadvantageous to moving the handlebars slightly upwards of vertical at all?
Most people I know have the handlbars twisted slightly upwards making it easier to rest on the hoods as it puts them at a better angle and slightly closer too you.
If you twist them too far, then it can be difficult to reach the breaks when on the drops coz they're pointed up. Just try it and see what you prefer.
If you do like them twisted too far up, then you probably have too long a stem, or the entire geometry of the bike is too big (long) for you.
In reply to AlisonSmiles:
Cyclo-cross bikes do, some road bikes too, but really why? If you have decent well maintained brakes you can stop as quick as you need with one or two fingers. Never seen the need to have more power tbh, just extra weight/complication with no benefits.
> Why don't these things have disc brakes ...
Cyclo-cross bikes do, some road bikes too, but really why? If you have decent well maintained brakes you can stop as quick as you need with one or two fingers. Never seen the need to have more power tbh, just extra weight/complication with no benefits.
In reply to AlisonSmiles:
Ohhh... you don't want to do that <tuts unhelpfully>
Presuming its not one of those 1980s pumps that is the length of the cross bar, so just stick it in your jersey pocket. You're a road biker! Should be nowt on the bike except bottles, doesn't look right otherwise.
Have fun.
BTW, last month I did a 190 km ride and I reckon I rode 90% of it on the hoods - but being able to go to the drops and tops for just 10 % of the time makes a huge difference to comfort.
> Attached the pump to the frame, carried nothing in the road jersey pockets.
Ohhh... you don't want to do that <tuts unhelpfully>
Presuming its not one of those 1980s pumps that is the length of the cross bar, so just stick it in your jersey pocket. You're a road biker! Should be nowt on the bike except bottles, doesn't look right otherwise.
Have fun.
BTW, last month I did a 190 km ride and I reckon I rode 90% of it on the hoods - but being able to go to the drops and tops for just 10 % of the time makes a huge difference to comfort.
In reply to TobyA:
I bought one of those two prong rampant rabbit type Adamo saddles for my TT bike and I must say the undercarriage is much happier now on longer rides
>
>
> BTW, last month I did a 190 km ride and I reckon I rode 90% of it on the hoods - but being able to go to the drops and tops for just 10 % of the time makes a huge difference to comfort.
>
> BTW, last month I did a 190 km ride and I reckon I rode 90% of it on the hoods - but being able to go to the drops and tops for just 10 % of the time makes a huge difference to comfort.
I bought one of those two prong rampant rabbit type Adamo saddles for my TT bike and I must say the undercarriage is much happier now on longer rides
In reply to AlisonSmiles: Hi Al, you might want to try using some chamois cream too.... helps with soreness in your nether regions! Smear it all over the pad in your shorts and get that fresh zingy feeling... then ride all day !! There are loads of makes to try but I've sort of settled on Elite Ozone. Handy squeezy tube. Oh, BTW, do not apply to broken saddle-rashed-skin.... otherwise your head will pop out of the top of the tent as did my brother in laws'.... I laughed for an hour !!
In reply to Horse:
Cycled to work today and after finding myself in a quite socially awkward position of having one of my mail colleagues with his hands on my arse, we're reckoning I need to slightly raise my saddle, see how that goes, then slightly lower the handlebars. Small changes, and only one at a time is the way forwards. Overall, it's agreed the bike is a good fit, and the colour co-ordination is admirable.
One of the girls who rides a Dogma and has represented GB and England on the bike is giving me views about 100psi in the tyres (I'm on 80), and a more stretched out position and saying it feels heavy is being ignored. I suspect we have different needs from our bikes!
Cycled to work today and after finding myself in a quite socially awkward position of having one of my mail colleagues with his hands on my arse, we're reckoning I need to slightly raise my saddle, see how that goes, then slightly lower the handlebars. Small changes, and only one at a time is the way forwards. Overall, it's agreed the bike is a good fit, and the colour co-ordination is admirable.
One of the girls who rides a Dogma and has represented GB and England on the bike is giving me views about 100psi in the tyres (I'm on 80), and a more stretched out position and saying it feels heavy is being ignored. I suspect we have different needs from our bikes!
In reply to all: Ta for the advice. I've raised my saddle ever so slightly which has helped. The next thing is to move the seat back a couple of mm (small changes).
I've noticed that if I bend my arms there is less pressure on my hands, but I'm still more comfortable on the very tops of the hoods. I'm still pushing forward and down a lot which gets a bit sore and my elbows feel like they need to be locked out to maintain the position if that makes sense (triceps feel like they are getting a work out with the tension).
I've noticed that if I bend my arms there is less pressure on my hands, but I'm still more comfortable on the very tops of the hoods. I'm still pushing forward and down a lot which gets a bit sore and my elbows feel like they need to be locked out to maintain the position if that makes sense (triceps feel like they are getting a work out with the tension).
In reply to all: I'd just like to say, I'm loving road cycling! Had a couple of hairy moments with cars, which help to wake me up in the morning but I'm loving it!
In reply to AlisonSmiles:
I'd pump them to a bit below what it says on them is the max. 80 sounds very low for a road tyre. I'm pretty certain mine at at 110, but then you are probably loads lighter than me!
> the bike is giving me views about 100psi in the tyres (I'm on 80),
I'd pump them to a bit below what it says on them is the max. 80 sounds very low for a road tyre. I'm pretty certain mine at at 110, but then you are probably loads lighter than me!
In reply to TobyA: I have mine at 70 front and 100 rear. Having your tyre pressures at near the tyre max rating is outdated. Lower pressures are more comfy and contrary to popular belief have lower rolling resistance. There been quite a bit of research recently about this, see http://www.adventurecycling.org/resources/200903_PSIRX_Heine.pdf
In reply to Escher:
Interesting, but I'm not entirely convinced... that implies I should run at 75 front and 95 rear. yet the few times I've tried lower pressures I have noticed an increase in rolling resistance (along with an increase in comfort and grip) For long runs I do lower front pressure to 90, but generally run about 105 in both
Interesting, but I'm not entirely convinced... that implies I should run at 75 front and 95 rear. yet the few times I've tried lower pressures I have noticed an increase in rolling resistance (along with an increase in comfort and grip) For long runs I do lower front pressure to 90, but generally run about 105 in both
In reply to TobyA:
Comfort is more important to me than speed (well, for now anyway, I reserve the women's prerogative to change this view without any reason or notice). I am a bit of a girlie lightweight I guess, 58 kilos. This was apparently taken into account in the act of taking some of the air out of the tyres ... I have No Idea ...
Comfort is more important to me than speed (well, for now anyway, I reserve the women's prerogative to change this view without any reason or notice). I am a bit of a girlie lightweight I guess, 58 kilos. This was apparently taken into account in the act of taking some of the air out of the tyres ... I have No Idea ...
In reply to balmybaldwin: There's been quite a few tests I've read about where they've shown that rolling resistance is lower at lower pressures, not just the one I linked to. Worth googling for.
In reply to Escher:
That's exactly what I got told by one of Michelin's technical people years ago, his theory was that the tyre deforms and reforms faster at lower pressures.
Sean Yates used to run his tyres at about 90 psi.
That's exactly what I got told by one of Michelin's technical people years ago, his theory was that the tyre deforms and reforms faster at lower pressures.
Sean Yates used to run his tyres at about 90 psi.
In reply to Escher:
The article doesn't seem to suggest rolling resistance is lower at lower pressures, rather that it doesn't noticeably decrease beyond an optimal pressure due to increased shock absorption balancing the losses due to tyre deformation.
Though if I went at the pressures the article suggested, I'd be rather concerned about the tyre rolling off when I cornered. The couple of times I've punctured and not been able to get the pressure right up with a mini pump I've been able to feel the tyre move on corners.
> (In reply to balmybaldwin) There's been quite a few tests I've read about where they've shown that rolling resistance is lower at lower pressures, not just the one I linked to. Worth googling for.
The article doesn't seem to suggest rolling resistance is lower at lower pressures, rather that it doesn't noticeably decrease beyond an optimal pressure due to increased shock absorption balancing the losses due to tyre deformation.
Though if I went at the pressures the article suggested, I'd be rather concerned about the tyre rolling off when I cornered. The couple of times I've punctured and not been able to get the pressure right up with a mini pump I've been able to feel the tyre move on corners.
In reply to AlisonSmiles: have you tried them at a higher pressure? i prefer the feel of the ride at 120psi and i only weight 2kg more than you...
you're also less likely to need to change a flat at higher pressures which has got ot be worth some discomfort
you're also less likely to need to change a flat at higher pressures which has got ot be worth some discomfort
In reply to Tobias at Home:
Giggling right now. I've owned the bike a week and gone out on it three times. It's safe to say I've not done a lot of experimentation! Mind you, first ride I felt like I could feel every bit of uneven tarmac, and haven't felt that as badly since going lower pressure. It could, however, be that I've simply got a bit more used to the feel of a road bike.
Ah, on the flat issue. I'm used to carrying 3 tyre levers (although I realise I didn't even bother to take any out of my bag last time I punctured on the MTB). Is it true that a road tyre could be managed with 1? I do not have powerful fingers / wrists ...
Giggling right now. I've owned the bike a week and gone out on it three times. It's safe to say I've not done a lot of experimentation! Mind you, first ride I felt like I could feel every bit of uneven tarmac, and haven't felt that as badly since going lower pressure. It could, however, be that I've simply got a bit more used to the feel of a road bike.
Ah, on the flat issue. I'm used to carrying 3 tyre levers (although I realise I didn't even bother to take any out of my bag last time I punctured on the MTB). Is it true that a road tyre could be managed with 1? I do not have powerful fingers / wrists ...
In reply to AlisonSmiles:
me, i can do it without any levers but find it faster and less painful with them.
the obvious answer to that is to practise changing the tyre at home rather than 20mi from home as night and rain start falling...
> Ah, on the flat issue. I'm used to carrying 3 tyre levers (although I realise I didn't even bother to take any out of my bag last time I punctured on the MTB). Is it true that a road tyre could be managed with 1? I do not have powerful fingers / wrists ...
me, i can do it without any levers but find it faster and less painful with them.
the obvious answer to that is to practise changing the tyre at home rather than 20mi from home as night and rain start falling...
In reply to TobyA:
<shakes head at the tutter>
If you have a frame fitting pump you can reinflate your tyre super quick if you get a puncture.
Plus if it's a Silca pump with a Campagnolo head, it's inkeeping with 'The rules'.
Don't you know anything? ()
> (In reply to AlisonSmiles)
> [...]
>
> Ohhh... you don't want to do that <tuts unhelpfully>
>
> Presuming its not one of those 1980s pumps that is the length of the cross bar, so just stick it in your jersey pocket. You're a road biker! Should be nowt on the bike except bottles, doesn't look right otherwise.
>
> Have fun.
>
> BTW, last month I did a 190 km ride and I reckon I rode 90% of it on the hoods - but being able to go to the drops and tops for just 10 % of the time makes a huge difference to comfort.
> [...]
>
> Ohhh... you don't want to do that <tuts unhelpfully>
>
> Presuming its not one of those 1980s pumps that is the length of the cross bar, so just stick it in your jersey pocket. You're a road biker! Should be nowt on the bike except bottles, doesn't look right otherwise.
>
> Have fun.
>
> BTW, last month I did a 190 km ride and I reckon I rode 90% of it on the hoods - but being able to go to the drops and tops for just 10 % of the time makes a huge difference to comfort.
<shakes head at the tutter>
If you have a frame fitting pump you can reinflate your tyre super quick if you get a puncture.
Plus if it's a Silca pump with a Campagnolo head, it's inkeeping with 'The rules'.
Don't you know anything? ()
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