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HI,
I am just wondering how easy it is to set up just top ropes in the Peak district near Sheffield. There are a few of us wanting to get more experience of outdoor climbing but none of us have any sort of rack to do Trad climbing so just wanting to set up some ropes really.
If anyone knows of specific routes that would be useful too!
Thanks!
I am just wondering how easy it is to set up just top ropes in the Peak district near Sheffield. There are a few of us wanting to get more experience of outdoor climbing but none of us have any sort of rack to do Trad climbing so just wanting to set up some ropes really.
If anyone knows of specific routes that would be useful too!
Thanks!
In reply to Rhi Rhi:
Just a word of warning before the dam breaks - some folk on here a) think the Peak the final word on climbing (b) don't like top-roping and 9c) will almost certainly let you know this. Don't be dispirited! there may be some useful posts for you.
Just a word of warning before the dam breaks - some folk on here a) think the Peak the final word on climbing (b) don't like top-roping and 9c) will almost certainly let you know this. Don't be dispirited! there may be some useful posts for you.
In reply to Rhi Rhi:
get a copy of this book
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Rock-Climbing-Essential-Skills-Techniques/dp/095415...
you will need a small rack for belays, often slings around boulders at the top of the crag, but a set of nuts will give you many more options
plus a few screwgate krabs
if you are TRing at stanage popular or burbage, you wont be alone
consider a day with an instructor, money well spent to reassure you your not doing anything stupid
once you've TRed a bit, and got the hang of gear placements, then try it on the lead. you wont look back...
cheers
gregor
get a copy of this book
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Rock-Climbing-Essential-Skills-Techniques/dp/095415...
you will need a small rack for belays, often slings around boulders at the top of the crag, but a set of nuts will give you many more options
plus a few screwgate krabs
if you are TRing at stanage popular or burbage, you wont be alone
consider a day with an instructor, money well spent to reassure you your not doing anything stupid
once you've TRed a bit, and got the hang of gear placements, then try it on the lead. you wont look back...
cheers
gregor
In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs:
Plus a length of rigging rope to equalise and extend over the crag-edge.
To be honest, by the time you've got all this you're not far short of having enough kit to start leading.
> you will need a small rack for belays, often slings around boulders at the top of the crag, but a set of nuts will give you many more options. plus a few screwgate krabs
Plus a length of rigging rope to equalise and extend over the crag-edge.
To be honest, by the time you've got all this you're not far short of having enough kit to start leading.
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:
can be avoided if belayer belays from top of crag. care needed when setting up if new to this.
well, yes... and plenty of friendly mods/diffs/v diffs at burbage north if the OP wants to give it a go in time...
> (In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs)
>
>
> [...]
>
> Plus a length of rigging rope to equalise and extend over the crag-edge.
>
>
> [...]
>
> Plus a length of rigging rope to equalise and extend over the crag-edge.
can be avoided if belayer belays from top of crag. care needed when setting up if new to this.
>
> To be honest, by the time you've got all this you're not far short of having enough kit to start leading.
> To be honest, by the time you've got all this you're not far short of having enough kit to start leading.
well, yes... and plenty of friendly mods/diffs/v diffs at burbage north if the OP wants to give it a go in time...
In reply to Rhi Rhi:
Then what do you propose using for setting up the top ropes? The answer to that will affect the list of suitable crags.
> none of us have any sort of rack to do Trad climbing
Then what do you propose using for setting up the top ropes? The answer to that will affect the list of suitable crags.
In reply to Rhi Rhi: Don't believe what the gear freaks tell you. With some ingenuity you can set up a top rope on plenty of routes with nothing more than one long rope, one screw gate and a rope protector (a piece of carpet, or an old pair of jeans should do the trick). Obviously you will be limited to routes with suitably slingable things on top and life will be much simpler if you have two ropes, a short one (15-25m) for rigging and a longer one for climbing on (40-50m).
In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs:
I would avoid recommending this if the anchors are dodgy and climber falls the belayer will get puled off too, thats an insane thing to suggest, much better to have belayer on the ground where they can observe and belay better and are in no danger of falling off
> (In reply to Jamie Bankhead)
> can be avoided if belayer belays from top of crag. care needed when setting up if new to this.
>
>
I would avoid recommending this if the anchors are dodgy and climber falls the belayer will get puled off too, thats an insane thing to suggest, much better to have belayer on the ground where they can observe and belay better and are in no danger of falling off
In reply to andic:
Yes, where they can watch the leader fall to the floor safely.
If the anchors are dodgy it might be worth addressing the anchors, not where the belayer is...
Yes, where they can watch the leader fall to the floor safely.
If the anchors are dodgy it might be worth addressing the anchors, not where the belayer is...
In reply to JH74:
If i fell off I'd be glad to have someone to call for help rather than another casualty.
Beginners are very good at finding dodgy anchors particularly when they are doung it on a shoestring. When I recall some of the things I did when starting out I think am very possibly lucky to be alive.
If i fell off I'd be glad to have someone to call for help rather than another casualty.
Beginners are very good at finding dodgy anchors particularly when they are doung it on a shoestring. When I recall some of the things I did when starting out I think am very possibly lucky to be alive.
In reply to andic: When you're in a hole, stop digging.
In reply to andic: I hear what you're saying. Couldn't resist being a pedant though...
In reply to Toreador:
By that I mean, we don't have any hexes, nuts or cams etc...we do have screwgates, slings, quickdraws and 2 sets of ropes so that's what I propose to use!
By that I mean, we don't have any hexes, nuts or cams etc...we do have screwgates, slings, quickdraws and 2 sets of ropes so that's what I propose to use!
In reply to Rhi Rhi: A set of nuts would open up your options and generally make life easier. I'd recommend the WC classic rocks.
In reply to Rhi Rhi:
Its very easy, but be aware that there are some bigots who think that because you choose to climb on a top rope, they are in some way better than you and that you should give way to them, be in awe of them and generally kiss their asses. Do not let these people spoil your day - have fun and enjoy yourselves, the rock is for everybody whatever their goal.
Its very easy, but be aware that there are some bigots who think that because you choose to climb on a top rope, they are in some way better than you and that you should give way to them, be in awe of them and generally kiss their asses. Do not let these people spoil your day - have fun and enjoy yourselves, the rock is for everybody whatever their goal.
In reply to Rhi Rhi: I would reccomend going with someone who can show you the ropes as it were, most crags you can walk along the top and find a route or 20 or 200 at stanage that can be set up with a bit of rope and/slings, go to Stanage on a weekend and you will see it being done, popular end, manchester buttress/black hawk area is a usual haunt for groups learning,
In reply to Removed User:
Yeah, but at the same time, I would always pull a top rope if someone turned up to lead it.
> (In reply to Removed UserRhi Rhi)
>
> Its very easy, but be aware that there are some bigots who think that because you choose to climb on a top rope, they are in some way better than you and that you should give way to them, be in awe of them and generally kiss their asses. Do not let these people spoil your day - have fun and enjoy yourselves, the rock is for everybody whatever their goal.
>
> Its very easy, but be aware that there are some bigots who think that because you choose to climb on a top rope, they are in some way better than you and that you should give way to them, be in awe of them and generally kiss their asses. Do not let these people spoil your day - have fun and enjoy yourselves, the rock is for everybody whatever their goal.
Yeah, but at the same time, I would always pull a top rope if someone turned up to lead it.
In reply to Papillon:
Personally, I think if they're not used to placing nuts, I think a set of nuts would complicate things and generally make life dangerous. Top roping isn't a great way to learn how to place gear really.
> (In reply to Rhi Rhi) A set of nuts would open up your options and generally make life easier. I'd recommend the WC classic rocks.
Personally, I think if they're not used to placing nuts, I think a set of nuts would complicate things and generally make life dangerous. Top roping isn't a great way to learn how to place gear really.
In reply to Rhi Rhi:
I second the people who say that nuts aren't needed. Setting up toprope anchors is not the place to be learning how to place and equalise protection. It's not rocket science, but if you can't assess what's a good placement (which comes with experience), then it will eventually end in tears.
I'd stick to crags with solid slingable things at the top - large trees and boulders.
I second the people who say that nuts aren't needed. Setting up toprope anchors is not the place to be learning how to place and equalise protection. It's not rocket science, but if you can't assess what's a good placement (which comes with experience), then it will eventually end in tears.
I'd stick to crags with solid slingable things at the top - large trees and boulders.
In reply to Boy:
Agree with this completely. When I started I had a 50m rope and a screw gate and could set up top-ropes at plenty of routes (albeit short ones if I wanted to belay from the bottom). Then I got a long (~10m) length of sling and that allowed me to get on a very large number of routes. Then if you start to slowly build up a rack of gear I can assure you that you will have a pretty decent rack before you run out of routes you can set up on using just a length of sling/static and a rope.
Definitely use a rope-protector (pice of carpet).
I've just completely repeated Boy's post, but it was good advice so worth it.
> (In reply to Rhi Rhi) Don't believe what the gear freaks tell you. With some ingenuity you can set up a top rope on plenty of routes with nothing more than one long rope, one screw gate and a rope protector (a piece of carpet, or an old pair of jeans should do the trick). Obviously you will be limited to routes with suitably slingable things on top and life will be much simpler if you have two ropes, a short one (15-25m) for rigging and a longer one for climbing on (40-50m).
Agree with this completely. When I started I had a 50m rope and a screw gate and could set up top-ropes at plenty of routes (albeit short ones if I wanted to belay from the bottom). Then I got a long (~10m) length of sling and that allowed me to get on a very large number of routes. Then if you start to slowly build up a rack of gear I can assure you that you will have a pretty decent rack before you run out of routes you can set up on using just a length of sling/static and a rope.
Definitely use a rope-protector (pice of carpet).
I've just completely repeated Boy's post, but it was good advice so worth it.
In reply to Rhi Rhi: Have fun and if you're concerned about your set up and If there are any climbers there, ask their opinion, most of us would be glad to help. We all had to start somewhere.
In reply to Rhi Rhi: You should be aware that some massive and apparently immovable boulders are in fact finely balanced and can tip easily is someone stands on them. This is not good news if you're using them for anchors at the time! Check everything thoroughly, and make sure that all your anchors are completely independent of each other.
In reply to Howard J:
My thoughts too. Both slings around boulders and nuts/hexes in cracks need a degree of skill and judgement. And having a small selection of nuts will open up a much wider range of climbs. Eg at almscliff, you'd have slim pickings in the lower grades if you were reliant on slings to build belays.
I suspect many of us came into climbing through this route, and a bit of caution and common sense kept us safe while we learned the skills. It is also good practice if the OP has any ambition to lead, as placing gear while climbing is that bit harder and higher stakes than when you are able to take as much time as you want and build a bomber belay...
Cheers
Gregor
My thoughts too. Both slings around boulders and nuts/hexes in cracks need a degree of skill and judgement. And having a small selection of nuts will open up a much wider range of climbs. Eg at almscliff, you'd have slim pickings in the lower grades if you were reliant on slings to build belays.
I suspect many of us came into climbing through this route, and a bit of caution and common sense kept us safe while we learned the skills. It is also good practice if the OP has any ambition to lead, as placing gear while climbing is that bit harder and higher stakes than when you are able to take as much time as you want and build a bomber belay...
Cheers
Gregor
In reply to Rhi Rhi:
I climbed in the Peaks for the first time last week (The Roaches), and set up a top-rope as I wasn't happy leading on most of the climbs. I wasn't the only one doing it, and didn't get any dodgy looks.
I don't own any hexes, but they would have come in handy, but I managed to set up some bomber anchors using slings and nuts with a cam chucked in when needed.
I climbed in the Peaks for the first time last week (The Roaches), and set up a top-rope as I wasn't happy leading on most of the climbs. I wasn't the only one doing it, and didn't get any dodgy looks.
I don't own any hexes, but they would have come in handy, but I managed to set up some bomber anchors using slings and nuts with a cam chucked in when needed.
In reply to jonny2vests:
I'm granting the OP enough nouse to learn how to use any equipment she buys. I actually agreed with Boys post 'With some ingenuity you can set up a top rope on plenty of routes', I just think considering what she already has a set of non-bling nuts would be a worthwhile investment.
Setting up a belay is obviously a necessary skill for a self-reliant climber and I don't see what's wrong learning how to do it in TR situation. If we stick to options for people who can't build a belay then we definitely are limited in the Peak.
> (In reply to Papillon)
> [...]
>
> Personally, I think if they're not used to placing nuts, I think a set of nuts would complicate things and generally make life dangerous. Top roping isn't a great way to learn how to place gear really.
> [...]
>
> Personally, I think if they're not used to placing nuts, I think a set of nuts would complicate things and generally make life dangerous. Top roping isn't a great way to learn how to place gear really.
I'm granting the OP enough nouse to learn how to use any equipment she buys. I actually agreed with Boys post 'With some ingenuity you can set up a top rope on plenty of routes', I just think considering what she already has a set of non-bling nuts would be a worthwhile investment.
Setting up a belay is obviously a necessary skill for a self-reliant climber and I don't see what's wrong learning how to do it in TR situation. If we stick to options for people who can't build a belay then we definitely are limited in the Peak.
In reply to Rhi Rhi:
Then I'd probably suggest Wharncliffe - there are lots of large boulders/spikes/flakes at the top that can be used to set up a belay without the need for nuts etc.
Personally, I'd suggest pooling your cash and buying a set of nuts and a couple of hexes between you. That'll give you enough for leading (if you choose your routes accordingly) and also increase the scope of places you can set up top ropes - there are plenty of routes/crags where the only anchors at the top are in cracks.
> we don't have any hexes, nuts or cams etc...we do have screwgates, slings, quickdraws
Then I'd probably suggest Wharncliffe - there are lots of large boulders/spikes/flakes at the top that can be used to set up a belay without the need for nuts etc.
Personally, I'd suggest pooling your cash and buying a set of nuts and a couple of hexes between you. That'll give you enough for leading (if you choose your routes accordingly) and also increase the scope of places you can set up top ropes - there are plenty of routes/crags where the only anchors at the top are in cracks.
In reply to Rhi Rhi:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/23995729/toprope.png
This is how I'd do it using 10 -15 m static rope at the top and slings around solid boulders or trees at places like rivelin, burbage, wharnecliffe or yarncliffe. equalised to a bight tied off around a fig 8 or screw gate over the edge.
Once you have learned how to judge pro placements you can set it up at the top of Hargreaves original at stannage and have an afternoon on that
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/23995729/toprope.png
This is how I'd do it using 10 -15 m static rope at the top and slings around solid boulders or trees at places like rivelin, burbage, wharnecliffe or yarncliffe. equalised to a bight tied off around a fig 8 or screw gate over the edge.
Once you have learned how to judge pro placements you can set it up at the top of Hargreaves original at stannage and have an afternoon on that
In reply to Rhi Rhi:
Get this book
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Further-Modern-Techniques-Constable-guide/dp/009478...
Get this book
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Further-Modern-Techniques-Constable-guide/dp/009478...
In reply to Rhi Rhi: To answer your question directly - yes, there are bags of top roping potential in the Peak close to Sheffield. Get out there, apply common sense and have fun. However, as others have said top roping can be a contentious issue so it might be worth avoiding busy crags like Stanage Popular and Froggatt, don't hog a route for a long time and most of all, enjoy yourselves!
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:
True, that.
Don't get put off by the "mystique" of trad leading or the idea that it's incredibly hard and dangerous. I'm a risk-averse bumbly and I can manage it.
> (In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs)
>
>
> [...]
>
> Plus a length of rigging rope to equalise and extend over the crag-edge.
>
> To be honest, by the time you've got all this you're not far short of having enough kit to start leading.
>
>
> [...]
>
> Plus a length of rigging rope to equalise and extend over the crag-edge.
>
> To be honest, by the time you've got all this you're not far short of having enough kit to start leading.
True, that.
Don't get put off by the "mystique" of trad leading or the idea that it's incredibly hard and dangerous. I'm a risk-averse bumbly and I can manage it.
In reply to EeeByGum:
It's not *that* contentious though, unless the OP is thinking of taking a minibus full of students along for the ride. ;O)
Plenty of straightforward sling-able anchors to be found at Stanage, Burbage, Froggatt etc..
In addition to those 'honey-pot' crags, Wharncliffe was a good shout earlier. There are also some good tree belays to be found at Yarncliffe, Rivelin, Gardoms and (if feeling adventurous) Turning Stone Edge.
It's not *that* contentious though, unless the OP is thinking of taking a minibus full of students along for the ride. ;O)
Plenty of straightforward sling-able anchors to be found at Stanage, Burbage, Froggatt etc..
In addition to those 'honey-pot' crags, Wharncliffe was a good shout earlier. There are also some good tree belays to be found at Yarncliffe, Rivelin, Gardoms and (if feeling adventurous) Turning Stone Edge.
In reply to Papillon:
There's absolutely masses of stuff you can TR in the Peak without building a proper anchor, I think the occasional top roper would take years before they ran out. In fact I'd say the requirement for having to use gear on most TRs on grit is rare.
> (In reply to jonny2vests)
>
> If we stick to options for people who can't build a belay then we definitely are limited in the Peak.
> If we stick to options for people who can't build a belay then we definitely are limited in the Peak.
There's absolutely masses of stuff you can TR in the Peak without building a proper anchor, I think the occasional top roper would take years before they ran out. In fact I'd say the requirement for having to use gear on most TRs on grit is rare.
In reply to jonny2vests:
Might want to rephrase that?
Chris
>
>
> There's absolutely masses of stuff you can TR in the Peak without building a proper anchor,
>
> There's absolutely masses of stuff you can TR in the Peak without building a proper anchor,
Might want to rephrase that?
Chris
In reply to Chris Craggs:
Maybe he doesn't. How about 'There's absolutely masses of stuff you can TR in the Peak without faffing with your nuts'.
Maybe he doesn't. How about 'There's absolutely masses of stuff you can TR in the Peak without faffing with your nuts'.
In reply to andic:
I'm assuming that this is tongue in cheek?
> (In reply to Rhi Rhi)
> set it up at the top of Hargreaves original at stannage and have an afternoon on that
I'm assuming that this is tongue in cheek?
In reply to jonny2vests:
This could really give the OP the wrong impression!
Rhi Rhi- You will definitley need to know how to build a proper anchor along the lines of andi c's post
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=516236&v=1#x6982307
(white rabbit is optional) and his venue suggestions were spot on.
> (In reply to Papillon)
> [...]
>
> [...]
>
> There's absolutely masses of stuff you can TR in the Peak without building a proper anchor, I think the occasional top roper would take years before they ran out. In fact I'd say the requirement for having to use gear on most TRs on grit is rare.
> [...]
>
> [...]
>
> There's absolutely masses of stuff you can TR in the Peak without building a proper anchor, I think the occasional top roper would take years before they ran out. In fact I'd say the requirement for having to use gear on most TRs on grit is rare.
This could really give the OP the wrong impression!
Rhi Rhi- You will definitley need to know how to build a proper anchor along the lines of andi c's post
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=516236&v=1#x6982307
(white rabbit is optional) and his venue suggestions were spot on.
We were at Stanage last weekend when a group from London turned up with an instructor for their first outing outside a climbing wall. He set up a top rope on Goliath's Groove.
They said if we wanted to lead it, they would move on, and I have no objection to this, but none of the 'students' managed more than 5 feet before they were hanging on the rope, and only one of three eventually scrabbled his way up the route. They then went onto another route slightly easier where the same scenario happened. I thought from the students point of view, the whole day was a waste of money.
I would suggest to the OP that they do very little top roping if their aim is eventually to lead outside, but buy a few pieces of gear and start leading really easy routes almost straight away and work upwards. IMO, top roping can become a habit; the more you do, the harder it becomes to eventually make the transition,
There is the philosophical question of whether the real rocks should be used as extensions of climbing wall practice. The nature of British rock climbing has changed hugely over the last few decades, chalk, red points, more and more bolted rock, etc etc, but some aspects are worthy of preserving, ie the adventurous nature of climbing. If a large proportion of 'climbers' start climbing without this, would it be the same sport? What would Whillans say?
They said if we wanted to lead it, they would move on, and I have no objection to this, but none of the 'students' managed more than 5 feet before they were hanging on the rope, and only one of three eventually scrabbled his way up the route. They then went onto another route slightly easier where the same scenario happened. I thought from the students point of view, the whole day was a waste of money.
I would suggest to the OP that they do very little top roping if their aim is eventually to lead outside, but buy a few pieces of gear and start leading really easy routes almost straight away and work upwards. IMO, top roping can become a habit; the more you do, the harder it becomes to eventually make the transition,
There is the philosophical question of whether the real rocks should be used as extensions of climbing wall practice. The nature of British rock climbing has changed hugely over the last few decades, chalk, red points, more and more bolted rock, etc etc, but some aspects are worthy of preserving, ie the adventurous nature of climbing. If a large proportion of 'climbers' start climbing without this, would it be the same sport? What would Whillans say?
1
In reply to Papillon:
Roger, hence the clarification.
> (In reply to jonny2vests)
> [...]
>
> This could really give the OP the wrong impression!
> [...]
>
> This could really give the OP the wrong impression!
Roger, hence the clarification.
In reply to Rhi Rhi:
I think there is a huge demand for top roping in the Peaks, and also places to take kids climbing.
There is obviously a glaring hole in guidebook coverage here and some enterprising soul or outfit could surely cash-in here.
These aren't new ideas at all.
I can see it now
The Peaks' Best Top Ropes by Chris Cliff. £8.99 published by Get To The Top Easy Climbing Guidebooks.
The Best Places To Take Your Kids Climbing in the Peak by Martin Glaser. £8.99 published by Get To The Top Easy Climbing Guidebooks.
Then branch out to all areas in the UK.
I think there is a huge demand for top roping in the Peaks, and also places to take kids climbing.
There is obviously a glaring hole in guidebook coverage here and some enterprising soul or outfit could surely cash-in here.
These aren't new ideas at all.
I can see it now
The Peaks' Best Top Ropes by Chris Cliff. £8.99 published by Get To The Top Easy Climbing Guidebooks.
The Best Places To Take Your Kids Climbing in the Peak by Martin Glaser. £8.99 published by Get To The Top Easy Climbing Guidebooks.
Then branch out to all areas in the UK.
a bit like these two
Bay Area Top Ropes
http://www.supertopo.com/packs/bay-area-top-ropes.html
or this one
Yosemite Sport Climbs and Top Ropes
http://www.supertopo.com/packs/yosemite-sport-climbs-top-ropes.html
Like it..
Kid-Friendly Rock
http://www.kidsclimbing.co.uk/kidrock.asp
Peak Entry..
Peak District
Low grade gritstone
(With thanks to Steve Clark & Lynn Robinson (as Offwidth) for these)
Burbage South boulders | Where is it?
Grades & Ethics
The following with thanks to Nige Mountney in the UKClimbing forums:
For very young kids (2 - 4 yrs):
Burbage South boulders - especially the slabs with bullet marks, the best being the obvious one 30 m from the Cobra, the one immediately adjacent to the path just down slope from the Cobra and the slab on the Sheep (rope recommended for all these).
Burbage North - between Remergence area and Ash Tree Wall area there is a very good large slabby triangular boulder 20 m from the path. This has 3-4 great routes for young kids (rope needed).
Cratcliffe top boulders.
Proper routes for kids of 4+ years:
Windgather - This is the best crag for young kids in the Peak. There are plenty of slabby Mods and Diffs and High Butress Arete is great once they start to get into it. Plenty of closely spaced holds for them to grab. The quarry at the north end is also good and quieter for practice and gaining confidence.
Harborough Rocks - Loads of positive, closley spaced holds, though a bit steep for small kids.
Stanage - routes just to the left of Twin Towers all about 7-8 m and slabby with fairly closely spaced breaks (P143-P144 in current BMC Stange guide, not in PGE).
Bamford - Gun Buttress area - loads of easy wrinked slabs with closely spaced holds.
Birchens - OK but many of the starts are undercut and too tricky for small kids.
Chee Dale - Embankment slabs (next to the Embankment)- long but easy gritstone slabs with bolts/stakes at the top to set up easy top ropes - make sure the kids are confident about lowering off before they get too high.
A couple of other good choices for easy children's climbs in the Peak are the 10 m chipped slab at Robin Hood's Stride (fairly obvious, near the problem Sweet Thing, about 30 m right of the popular problems in the cave) and a large slab at Burbage South that is covered in large, deep 5-10 cm diameter holes (lies immediately down the slope below Goliath and adjacent to the good path that runs between the quarries and the popular boulder circuit). The arete on this boulder would be good too, though is a bit harder.
Kid-Friendly Rock
http://www.kidsclimbing.co.uk/kidrock.asp
Peak Entry..
Peak District
Low grade gritstone
(With thanks to Steve Clark & Lynn Robinson (as Offwidth) for these)
Burbage South boulders | Where is it?
Grades & Ethics
The following with thanks to Nige Mountney in the UKClimbing forums:
For very young kids (2 - 4 yrs):
Burbage South boulders - especially the slabs with bullet marks, the best being the obvious one 30 m from the Cobra, the one immediately adjacent to the path just down slope from the Cobra and the slab on the Sheep (rope recommended for all these).
Burbage North - between Remergence area and Ash Tree Wall area there is a very good large slabby triangular boulder 20 m from the path. This has 3-4 great routes for young kids (rope needed).
Cratcliffe top boulders.
Proper routes for kids of 4+ years:
Windgather - This is the best crag for young kids in the Peak. There are plenty of slabby Mods and Diffs and High Butress Arete is great once they start to get into it. Plenty of closely spaced holds for them to grab. The quarry at the north end is also good and quieter for practice and gaining confidence.
Harborough Rocks - Loads of positive, closley spaced holds, though a bit steep for small kids.
Stanage - routes just to the left of Twin Towers all about 7-8 m and slabby with fairly closely spaced breaks (P143-P144 in current BMC Stange guide, not in PGE).
Bamford - Gun Buttress area - loads of easy wrinked slabs with closely spaced holds.
Birchens - OK but many of the starts are undercut and too tricky for small kids.
Chee Dale - Embankment slabs (next to the Embankment)- long but easy gritstone slabs with bolts/stakes at the top to set up easy top ropes - make sure the kids are confident about lowering off before they get too high.
A couple of other good choices for easy children's climbs in the Peak are the 10 m chipped slab at Robin Hood's Stride (fairly obvious, near the problem Sweet Thing, about 30 m right of the popular problems in the cave) and a large slab at Burbage South that is covered in large, deep 5-10 cm diameter holes (lies immediately down the slope below Goliath and adjacent to the good path that runs between the quarries and the popular boulder circuit). The arete on this boulder would be good too, though is a bit harder.
In reply to Rhi Rhi: If it is just outdoor climbing you want and you have slings and quickdraws ,what about some sports climbing? It would mean knowing what to do at the top and someone that can lead, but definately an option.
In reply to Rhi Rhi:
Well done Rhi, I wish my topics got as many replies as this :P If you want we'll head to Betws or LLanberis at some point to go shopping
Well done Rhi, I wish my topics got as many replies as this :P If you want we'll head to Betws or LLanberis at some point to go shopping
In reply to partz:
I have only just seen this! haha!
It seems I have opened quite the Pandora's box of posts!
I have only just seen this! haha!
It seems I have opened quite the Pandora's box of posts!
In reply to Gwain:
Sport climbing is a definite option but as far as I'm aware the sport climbs in the Peaks are few a far between, especially for the lower grades...?
Sport climbing is a definite option but as far as I'm aware the sport climbs in the Peaks are few a far between, especially for the lower grades...?
In reply to Rhi Rhi:
It is very easy to set up top ropes in the peak district. Why not buy a guidebook (Eastern Grit is a good general one)and go and take a look and make up your own mind ?
It is very easy to set up top ropes in the peak district. Why not buy a guidebook (Eastern Grit is a good general one)and go and take a look and make up your own mind ?
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