/ Envers des Aiguilles - Chamonix - TOUR ROUGE, AIGUILLE DE ROC

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keetrab - on 14 Aug 2012
Hi there

I am planning to visit Envers Hut this summer and climb few multi-pitch routes in the area. One of them is Subtilites Dulferiennes on AIGUILLE DE ROC and Le Marchand de Sable on TOUR ROUGE. Can anyone share their experience on the routes (protection, difficulty of the crux)? Possibly compared with Amazonia and Guy-Anne on 1st NANTILLON.

jcw on 15 Aug 2012
In reply to keetrab: I have tried replying but I keep on losing the message. I have done all the routes you mention in the early 1980s when they started to become popular. Marchand is a great classic nothing needs more saying.
Subtilites I raved about in my diary. I presume you know that Dulfer means a layback in French ( from Hans Dulfer ) and it was my favorite technique: if you cant climb it layback it!. When we did it in 1985 we did it iin 6 1/4 hrs and my diary says 16 or 17 pitches: magnificent route with virtually no gear but easy to protect: glorious, glorious climbing"Tthe route is well named,not just the justifiably famous 50m long lay back crack. We got into some difficulties at the top and ended up Diedre des Mousquetaires. Tedious descent of 4hrs to the hut in which we got the first abseil jammed.
Looking at Funalps this seems to be much the same today : the exit is not clear. and I am sure there is a better way of getting off.
I also see next day we did Ambiance Eigerwand which I noted was almost as good as Marchand. . Another route I found really good there was Envers contre tous.
So go for Subtilites and enjoy yourselves.
keetrab - on 16 Aug 2012
In reply to jcw:

Thanks a lot for the info

I will definitely set the two climbs on top of my priority climbs list !


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