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Climbing Gozo

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 mikewiggs 09 Sep 2012
If anybody out there has climbed on the Maltese island of Gozo and would like to share information on good crags/boulder spots/DWS venues to head for, then please do so!? Cheers
 Martin Bennett 10 Sep 2012
In reply to mikewiggs:

I climbed on Gozo quite a bit about 20 years ago during family holidays. Mainly solo-ing and self top-roping routes that were in the then fairly recent guide book co authored by members of my climbing club who'd been developing Maltese climbing along with local climbers, and some that weren't.
The best places were "The Inland Sea" and "Mgarr Ix-Xini" but there's rock all over the place - I did some routes on slabs above Dwejra Bay - again some in the guide book and some not, and all quite good.
A comprehensive guide to Malta and Gozo came out a few years ago. It looks brilliant and I'm sure tells of much development in the last 20 years. It's offered for sale here:

http://www.maltaclimbingguide.com/

Maybe you can get it in UK? Needlesports are usually a good bet for guide books.
Failing that if you think it's worth having I can lend you the old guide book - it's not much more than a pamphlet really - easy to send to you and for you to send back. Assuming you're in the UK and returning after your trip to Gozo!

Enjoy your trip - it's a wonderful place whether yoiu're climbing or not.
 Blue Straggler 10 Sep 2012
In reply to mikewiggs:
If you are doing any trad, take some CAMP Tri-Cams (or Viamont / Kouba ones, but CAMP ones are more easily sourced)
 Simon Alden 10 Sep 2012
In reply to mikewiggs: Hi Mike the comprehensive guidebook is unfortunately unavailable however there is an "adventure guidebook" which features sport climbing and bouldering/ dws in Malta and Gozo thats still available. Here's a link : http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Adventure-Guidebook-Maltese-Islands/dp/99932064...

There's some great DWS at Mgarr ix-Xini creek and also at Dwejra, check out also the video made by Sonnie Trotter and Katie Brown: vimeo.com/18331106 Best bouldering probably East of Ramla l-Hamra beach. Its all in that guide..if you don't get it let me know and I can give you more pointers.
OP mikewiggs 10 Sep 2012
In reply to Blue Straggler: Wont be climbing trad, but thanks for the advice anyway!
OP mikewiggs 10 Sep 2012
In reply to Martin Bennett: Thanks for the detailed info mate, and the offer of the pamphlet. Im sure i can find alot of the info on the net if i set my mind to it though, but thanks anyway. From the response it sounds as if i wont be short of rock to get on! Cheers!
OP mikewiggs 10 Sep 2012
In reply to coverdale: The video is pretty inspiring! Thanks for the info man, i think i'll get a copy of the guide.

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