UKC

Malverns guide

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 duchessofmalfi 14 Sep 2012
Apparently various topos for the Malverns can be found here:

http:// www.westmidlandsrock.co.uk / malverns_topo.pdf

But cybersquatters have taken over the website and the topos are gone.

Any chance anyone knows where the topos can be found?

Ta
 ollieollie 14 Sep 2012
In reply to duchessofmalfi: Wouldn't waste your time, might aswell bomb down to symonds yat if your going to malvern climbing
Joonsy 14 Sep 2012
In reply to duchessofmalfi: when i click on that site it just annoyingly takes me to a ''mountain climbing equipment shop'', westmidlandsrock PDF site now sems to have become inacessible, at Ivy Scar Rock there are two metal eyed bars set in to the rock for anchors at the top of crag about 15ft apart, one is roughly in the centre of the crag (above the original route i think) the other is at the highest point of the crag at it's left hand side when looking at it from below (above ivy buttress i think), the trees at top of crag have been felled though a stump well back from the lower anchor can be used as well.
I found one page of the guide here: https://ukc2.com/i/123371.jpg but as I think ivy scar is the "premier" spot around here it doesn't look great. I think I'll stick to mountain biking this weekend!
 smuffy 14 Sep 2012
In reply to duchessofmalfi: I'm away over the weekend but drop me an email to leerhalley@hotmail.com
I have the topos for the malvern routes on PDF.
 GarethSL 14 Sep 2012
In reply to duchessofmalfi:
> but as I think ivy scar is the "premier" spot around here it doesn't look great.

Actually Westminster Arms quarry is far nicer!

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=3886
 TobyA 14 Sep 2012
In reply to duchessofmalfi:
> I think ivy scar is the "premier" spot around here it doesn't look great. I think I'll stick to mountain biking this weekend!

Ivy Buttress is not completely terrible - my logbook notes you need 2 no.1 nuts to protect the crux well. But, yeah, overall it a bit pants.
 The Pylon King 14 Sep 2012
In reply to duchessofmalfi:
> I found one page of the guide here: https://ukc2.com/i/123371.jpg but as I think ivy scar is the "premier" spot around here it doesn't look great. I think I'll stick to mountain biking this weekend!

Probably the best plan! - the climbing on the Malverns is truly terrible and i am a big fan of esoteria!
 Rob Exile Ward 14 Sep 2012
In reply to Mr Mark Stephen Davies: We must meet up again sometime and I'll give you a guided tour of what we used to get up to in 1970/72.
Tank Quarry had some good slab problems ... Reservoir wall is good ... Tollgate Arete (which I now formally claim the first ascent of! 1971) is a great pitch. But it's a big lump of rocky hill to have such limited climbing.
Smuffy:

I'm not going climbing now! perhaps you could post the topos to the crag moderator and they could be made available somewhere on UKC?

Thanks!
 The Pylon King 14 Sep 2012
In reply to Rob Exile Ward:
> (In reply to Mr Mark Stephen Davies) We must meet up again sometime and I'll give you a guided tour of what we used to get up to in 1970/72.
> Tank Quarry had some good slab problems ... Reservoir wall is good ... Tollgate Arete (which I now formally claim the first ascent of! 1971) is a great pitch. But it's a big lump of rocky hill to have such limited climbing.

No thanks!! - i'm back in Bristol now! (would be good to meet up again though - over your way)

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