In reply to Jon Stewart:
Excellent description - it always feels harder than it should be that pitch!
I remember abbing in to do TRex with a mate. Luckily he would lead the hard pitches and I was only along for the ride - but what a ride! We went round to the promontory to view the route - both a sensible and stupid thing to do - sensible to ensure no one is on the route, route conditions etc, stupid as it makes wen slab look super steep from front view and begins to freak you out before youve even got on it.
The weather was poor - very windy, light drizzle but my mate decided to go for it anyway. Abbing in I seriously thought I was abbing to my doom! The first pitch was awful - not my thing at all. The spray being whipped up by the sea mixed with the drizzle so everything was constantly covered in a soapy wet sheen. I managed to convince him to belay in the corner so I got a lead on the 4b pitch across the wall on jugs to the stance on the hanging slab. This went ok - very easy climbing in an amazing position. I got clipped in to an old rusty peg and backed it up with a couple of small wires.
As Jools led through and was battling with the awkward top pitch the wind was buffeting me about so badly that I had to weight the peg (something I had tried not to do due to its manky appearance) - low and behold as the krab twiested in the peg it promptly snapped off and dropped down to hang pathetically from my harness!
I obviously wanted to yell up to Jools what had happened but quickly thought better of it and so suffered in my own provate sphere of terror until Jools had topped out!
I have had loads of fantatstic days out on Gogarth since of course - it is one of our favouritye crags and although the weather can be worse there - especially the wind in Wen Zawn - it can also be much better than the Pass etc. We have climbed on Main Cliff in February half - term when its been 4 degrees back in the Peak.